September 1959

YOSEMITE VOLUME XXXVIII - NUMBER 9 SEPTEMBER 1959

Photographs by Douglass H. Hubbard

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.

Cover — Vernal Fall

Since 1922, the monthly publication of the National Park Service and the Yosemite Natural History Association in Yosemite National Park. John C. Preston, Park Superintendent Douglass H. Hubbard, Park Naturalist Robert F. Upton, Associate Park Naturalist Paul F. McCrary, Assistant Park Naturalist Herbert D. Cornell, Junior Park Naturalist Robert A. Grom, Park Naturalist Trainee

SEPTEMBER

1959

CHILDREN'S DAY

By Gerald Reckin, Ranger-Naturalist Children's day in Tuolumne they are on their way and in a few Meadows is one of many emotions. short minutes the cars turn in on a you are between the ages of 8 service road and stop. Fond farewells 10, a good hiker and willing to are bid as though the hike were leave your parents behind, you lasting for weeks and then the qualify for the all day hike to the parents drive away with instructions mini. Here devils post pile. The to return at 4 :30 o'clock. somewhat apprehensive about the Now is the time for introductions so ranger's ability to lead their children that throughout the day everyone the destination without serious can become well acquainted and enjoy shop. There is great concern about a friendly atmosphere of comradeship. A big circle is formed and the length of the hike (6 miles), will to water be safe to drink, how much one at a time each gives his name bunch is needed and is there a first aid and where he lives. Sometimes as aid available. The ranger, of course, many as 35 boys and girls are eagerly cures the dubious moms and dads awaiting the information the ranger that "they have never yet lost a is going to give about hiking and

CHILD."

and spending a day in the wilds of The meeting place is the contact the Sierras. First they talk about,anion in Tuolumne Meadows. At conserving their energy by walking At this point there is a great deal of conat a moderate pace, then about decl m about who is going to ride with veloping a keen sense of awareness porn on the 3 mile auto caravan to to the beautiful things of nature that starting point of the hike. At last surround them. One of the great joys

XXXVIII NO. 9

and eagerly awaited experiences is the opportunity to carry the special back pack that is taken on each hike to contain the litter which is found along the trail. Each child, during the day, has an opportunity to become the official litter bag packer. Now it is time to start down the trail, through the beautiful shaded lodgepole pines, toward a Photographs by Douglass H. Hubbard

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small meadow and around small ponds of water that yield a fortune natural things to observe and discuss. The beautiful wild flowers that line the trail bring a never ending stream of questions from the astutely interested children. Then an almost terrifying thing is observed. A tree or several trees are standing along the trail which have been torn, scratched and are bleeding of pitch almost as though some human had raked them with a knife. What is it? What has happened? Quieting the children, the ranger encourages the children to examine the ground for evidence of what has happened. There on the forest floor are the tell tale prints and hollowed trail of the American black bear. Now the interest is keenly whetted and the eyes

—Frank Betts

of the children sweep through the grass which he has gathered. Down forest searching for the culprit that down they hike toward still another is responsible for this deed. meadow and the Tuolumne River At this point they leave the human The granite lies exposed on both trail and are reminded that only the sides and is eagerly waiting to rangers and the children know where its story through the voice of t!, to go from here. They travel along a ranger. The shining glacial polish narrow deer trail until it ceases and huge glacial erratics, feldspar crystals. then across country and down a tals and white out-croppings, mountain to another beautiful quartz all tell the story mother nature meadow. This they call jaw bone has written in the granite mountains. meadow and there lies one of the Now they pause on another meadow secret trail markers, two fallen and quietly to hear the voice of the rotted trees that form a perfect X, forest. What do they hear? They to show them the way back up the hear the wind, a bird, a mosquito, mountain. The life in a meadow is running water and now and then a wonderful and the children are very cone or twig dropping from the trees. eager to hear about the many animals Now the rushing water seems to be that live there. The Belding ground closer; another quarter of a mile squirrel sits straight up and whistles and there it is! Fresh clear water, mouse scurries off to his hole which tumbling and churning over granit, is covered by a small hay pile of boulders forming into pools and th

lashing on again downward to a destination all water must meet. All hikers become thirsty and now is the time for drinking cold delicious water from the Tuolumne River. The sun is rising high in the sky and their stomachs tell them that it is nearing lunch time. A beautiful sandy beach nestled in the rocks by the river makes an excellent place to eat and rest. The children rest for a very short while and soon there is talk about playing games. Sand in your mouth, a delightful game that is played by all. One hour has passed and it is time to pack up all of their litter and belongings and be on their way. They leave the river and travel up a drY stream bed and then suddenly looming up at their left is a huge Mass of black rocks. The children recognize it immediately as the miniature devils post pile. Large black pillars of basalt are standing on edge much like posts leaning against one another. At this point they have reached the extremity of their hike and must start back. Suddenly one of the children remembers that they haven't had their swim. So back they go to a beautiful little pool that lies just beside the river. Here the children splash and play until it is time to start the journey homeward. The hiking party is much quieter now as some are beginning to tire as they cross the meadows and climb through the forest on their way back to the automobiles. The cars are in sight now and the children dash forward to meet their parents and once again the story of the hike is related through the mouths of children to moms and dads about the wonders of nature and the miniature devils post pile.

The Founders of the National Park System acted wisely when they had the first National Park set apart. Not set apart to be uselessly hoarded as a miser hoards his idle gold, but set apart for definite, prescribed uses; to work for the Nation's welfare, just as properly invested capital works and accrues benefits for the investor. —Yell Charley Anderson, NPS

ARNO B. CAMMERER DIRECTOR, 1933-1940 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

YOSEMITE A NATURE WALK TO THE TOP

By William E. Steinkraus, Ranger-Naturalist If you are innately drawn by the From Lone Pine, we drive west once scene of a distant summit, and while more. in a determined pursuit of the objective, you can heartily appreciate Here, directly before us, the High nature's prizes along the path, leave Sierras rise like a great wall for over your cozy spot beside the fireplace 10,000 feet above the valley floor. and come with us on an exciting trip We are now climbing the highest from Yosemite Valley to the highest cliff in the country. This escarpment spot on top of the Sierra Nevada was formed millions of years ago mountains. when a large block of the earth's crust broke loose and tilted upward At the Happy Isles Nature Center, to the west. The Sierra Nevada range late-comers hurry quickly past the is a single block of the crust, 431 wildlife dioramas, pausing just long miles long and 40 to 80 miles wide. enough to observe the backpacking Owens Valley, bordering the range display before closing time at the on the east, is part of a section of Center. The lights go out inside, and the earth which moved downward another weekend has arrived. with respect to the mountain range From Happy Isles, it would be We begin our ascent up the steep most rewarding to follow the John eastern face from 3727 feet above Muir Trail all the way, beginning sea level. Now the scenery changes here and continuing for 211 miles rapidly. We leave behind the dry across the Sierra Nevada range to desert plants of the Upper Sonoran our destination, the summit of Mount life community to view the rare Arctic Whitney. Since a month's vacation vegetation of the Arctic-Alpine life is not practical at this time, another zone. A short distance above the valley, route to the summit is necessary. in the Upper Sonoran zone, we Consequently, our trip begins in pass through a spotty forest of the opposite direction. We travel pinyon pines, the only single-needle westward in our green station wagon pines in the United States. down beautiful Yosemite Valley. The About two miles beyond the trees, weather is perfect. The sun has already set one reaches the end of the ready set in the deep narrow valley. road at a pleasant campground at We follow the route northward out of Whitney Portal. It is now past midnight the canyon over the Big Oak Flat and time for a quick rest inside the Road to the Tioga Road cutting station wagon. across the high mountain range eastAt 6:15 A.M., August 14, 1959 at ward over the pass and down the 8,367 feet elevation, my wife Felicia eastern side of the Sierras to U.S. and I signed out at the trail register. Highway 395. Our journey continues Here, we are surrounded by a beautiful southward along this road descending northern Canadian type forest of ing gradually into Owens Valley. white fir; lodgepole, Jeffrey, western white pine.

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western white pine. Below this point, is adapted for this climate. Only a one passes directly from a semi-arid few feet above the last lodgepole climate with its pinyon pines into the pine, a low weather-beaten white- Hudsonian life community. Several bark stands planted in solid granite. Intermediate climatic life zones are Crossing timber line, we continue missing on the dry eastern slopes of onward up the straight canyon to a the Sierra range. more brilliant environment. In the Looking upward toward the peaks midst of a large boulder field, a in the sky, we see very little of the stream of meltwater is heard rushing 13 miles of winding trails separating us from the top. We see only the by under the rocks beneath our feet. A few steps farther up the boulder field, the creek is crossed by leaping from rock to rock. We sit down for a rest upstream where the trail turns away from the green mossy lined stream. A lovely wildflower garden surrounds us here. Alpine columbine, monkey flower, and shooting star are discovered in full color.

The trail winds upward past some shining granite, rounded and polished by the glaciers of long ago. The vertical walls ahead, now, form a giant saw-toothed ridge against the high jagged ridges all covered by a blaze of gold. The alpine glow lights the way before us. Behind us, the sun is now rising above the Inyo Mountains beyond Owens Valley. The trail zigzags continually for two miles up a long, steep slope. Above the slope, beyond Lone Pine Lake, a beautiful flat green area lies before us. Here, the white granite cliffs are clearly reflected in a high small lake beneath us. Mount Whitney is hidden from view. After crossing Lone Pine Creek, a curtain of water is seen pouring over a low edge near falls beyond Outpost Camp where firewood, mountain pride and larkspur are in bloom beside the trail.

Beautiful Consolation Lake suddenly appears on our left. A purple patch of rock fringe blooms among the boulders beneath us. Again, the trail continues uphill to Passing the halfway point, we press Mirror Lake at 10,600 feet above sea on along a very moderate incline, level. Beside this lake, four miles until we reach a small lake at Trail above Whitney Portal, hikers find a Camp 12,000 elevation. A curious pleasant retreat before climbing on Sierra marmot appears from beneath to the summit the following day. the large boulders. Physical conditioning is necessary Our steps bend upward on the before attempting the entire trip in a most difficult section of the hike. single day. The ascent is continued Three miles of sharp switchbacks by passing to the left upward around lead straight up the steep slope to the lake. Then from the cliffs above, Muir Crest. Meltwater, from the glacier we pause for an inverted view of ice above, crosses the trail on the pines and mountains reflected in several switchbacks. The canteens the clear captive water. are filled here, for no water is found Several hundred feet higher, the beyond this spot. trail approaches timber-line. We The next feature of interest is an have left behind the Jeffrey and eight by twenty foot outcrop of pure western white pine. Another white white milky quartz in the granite pine, the hardiest of all the pines, slope.

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The trail zigzags seem endless and ing the junction of the John Muir trail, tiring, but the anticipation soars as only two miles of trail lie before us. the top of Mount Whitney finally appears The rocky path cuts a fairly level from behind another peak. line along the side of the crest near As higher we go, we see more of the the very top of the jagged ridge. We world stretching out before us. stop at each opening in the saw At 13,777 feet above the ocean toothed pattern for a breath-taking level, we round a bend over the high view downward toward the deep crest and pass through a "window" canyons and lakes to the east. The to the other side. We feel lost in the "windows" have been etched out by rugged landscape before our eyes. frost action and snow slides. Looking westward across the high As we pass the last opening in Sierra mountains of Sequoia National the long ridge, we marvel at the delicate Park, we experience a new world alpine sunflowers, and sky pilots of high jagged peaks and deep canyons. blooming beside the dry rocky path. The quality of the landscape is The last hundred feet upward seem most expressed by the diversity of the painful, but they also pass. colors before us. Fluffy white clouds We have reached the top at about are growing rapidly in the pale blue 2:30 P.M. Sitting on top of the world background framing the brown, tan, at 14,496.811 feet high, we now enjoy rust, and gray cliffs which stand guard long rest while observing the subordinate over the emerald patches of glacier Sierra peaks all around us. carved lakes below. In the broad flat valley beneath Northward, an endless sea of mountains us, the rounded rock surfaces are revealing appear as giant waves in features of intense glacial scouring. a rugged rocky landscape. Beyond In the broad flat valley beneath us, Northward, an endless sea of mountains the rounded rock surfaces are revealing appear as giant waves in a rugged features of intense glacial scouring. rocky landscape. Beyond Owens Valley The colorful Hitchcock Lakes are small and the Inyo mountains behind it, two basins in this smoothly scoured floor. mountain ranges are visible within the The cliffs of Mount Hitchcock rise Basin and Range Province. Death Valley, sharply behind these lakes or tarns hidden beneath them, is hidden from which formed at the bottom of a cirque view. when the glacier ice melted away. A well developed cirque, or However, the most fascinating feature steep-walled hollow carved out of the of the surroundings is the very holy side of a mountain by ice plucking, summit on which we are perched. Mount can be seen, as a perfectly shaped Whitney is not a sharp matterhorn peak, shell, beyond and above Mount but rather it is crowned by a flat rounded Hitchcock. Behind the cirque, Mount top. The curving platform summit is Kaweah rises higher than the really a remnant of an ancient rolling surrounding peaks. We are separated landscape about 60 million years ago. from this mountain by Kern River The curving surface clearly reflects the Canyon running north to south along a southeast trending folds of a fold fault line in the earth's crust. The erosion cycle. Muir Crest, itself, flows stream channel has been greatly in the same general direction as these old enlarged by huge tongues of ice during folds. Enough time has not passed to the glacial periods. We leave the allow the glaciers to pluck away the "window" and hike northward along mountain top since the recent rise of the rocky western slope of Muir Ridge. the Sierra Nevadas. Aplite, a rare, Upon reaching the junction of the fine-grained type of granite found on Mt.

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found on Mt. Whitney, accounts for covered by a layer of loose boulders the slow process of erosion of the with a characteristic metallic texture. summit. No evidence of stream erosion It has been estimated by the geologist, is found here. No gullies exist, Francois E. Matthes, that the summit for snow falls here during the summer erodes about a single foot every 60,000 as well as the winter. A thin blanket years. Mount Whitney is here to stay of snow accumulates at the top. The for a long time to come. fallen snow is quickly removed by So, let us leave our high perch to the evaporation and severe storms. The elements and return to Whitney Portal slow process of erosion is effected by before dark, where at 8:15 P.M. we sign frost action breaking up the rocks, back in at the trail register. consequently, the top is

AND WE DECLARE

A lithe and towering redwood stood With lowest limb above the wood That gathered near with eager ear, To hear this sage, and veterans ' grace For having lived through countless wars. In peace and quiet to behold How gracefully a tree grows old, without a battle for its place. A hazel bush asked for the ear (Knowing trees will always hear) And whispered, " Were you also born From a seasoned nut, as all my kin, To come alive, and witness where Once the fertile part had been? " "Yes, dear Bush," the redwood said; "But I was in a smaller seed. Four thousand years ago conceived, And it held every part of me, But faith had made me rise and grow. Now, Hazel; You should not despair, Because You're small and I am big. We both will be what we declare." - -Alfred E. Brighton

YOSEMITE 100 YEARS IN YOSEMITE BY DR. CARL P. RUSSELL

In no single book can one find the human story of Yosemite National Park as completely told as here. Explorers, the Indian fighters, the pioneer developers, and the supporters of conservation are brought to life in words and pictures. Hotels, stagecoach day. and mining excitement, all create a stirring back ground for the story of these men. Dr. Russell is a former Yosemite Superintendent. A valuable addition to any library, it is an ideal companion for a Valley sojourner. 206 pp., 42 illustrations.

INDIAN LIFE OF THE YOSEMITE REGION BY DRS. S. A. BARRETT AND E. W. GIFFORD

This extensive classic on the material culture of the Miwok Indians is written for the student and layman alike. It includes such topics as foods and medicine, arts and industries, clothing, weapons, and baskets. Abundantly illustrated with photographs of original Indian material, this former publication of the Milwaukee Public Museum would be a worthwhile addition to your library. 260 pp., 50 pp. of illustration.

PAPER $2.20 BUCKRAM $3.25

Above prices include postage and tax.

YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA

PUBLICATIONS FOR SALE AT THE YOSEMITE MUSEUM

All mail orders should be addressed to, and remittances made payable to, Yosemite NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, Yosemite NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA. Prices include postage, insurance, and on proper items, California State Sales Tax 3%, plus 1% County Tax.

GENERAL

Adams' Guide to Yosemite Valley, Illustrated $1.65 Auto Tour of Yosemite National Park - Ditton and McHenry

Campsite Finder (Western) - Hartesveldt

Climbers Guide to High Sierra - Sierra Club 3 25 Devils Postpile National Monument - Hartesveldt

Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (paper) 3 75 Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (cloth) 5 40 Going Light - With Backpack or Burro - Sierra Club 2 25 Happy Isles Nature Center, Your Guide to - Hubbard.-..--...-.._-._ -.-_.--.-_...-...--._...--._-.---

National Park Story in Pictures - Story

National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (cloth) 6 20 National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (paper) 1 15 Nature Trail - Inspiration Point Self-Guiding - Carpenter

Nature Trail - Mariposa Grove Self Guiding - Wason

Place Names of Yosemite Valley - Hartesveldt,30 Rocks & Minerals, How to Know Them - Pearl

Starr's Guide to John Muir Trail and High Sierra Region 2 25 This is California - Obert ---- ------------..°... 8 00 Waterfalls, Famous, of the World - Brockman

Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada - Ansel Adams & John Muir 12 70 Yosemite Story, The - Scott................................. 1.20 Yosemite Trails & Tales - Taylor

ANIMAL LIFE

Animal Tracks, Field Guide to - Murie 4.30 Birds of Pacific States - Hoffman 6.20 Birds, Western, Field Guide to - Peterson 4.30 Birds of Yosemite - Stebbins .85 Fishes of Yosemite National Park - Evans-Wallis

Mammals, Field Guide to - Burt and Grossenheider 4 30 Mammals of Yosemite National Park - Parker

Reptiles and Amphibians of Yosemite National Park - Walker

Survey of Sierra Nevada Bighorn - Jones

TREES AND FLOWERS

Broadleaved Trees of Yosemite National Park - Brockman

Cone-bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park - Cole

Ferns, Field Guide to - Cobb 4 30 Sequoias, Yosemite, Guide to the - McFarland

Wildflowers of the Sierra (80 color photos) - Hubbard

Wildflowers, Western, Field Book of - Armstrong 5.40

HISTORY AND INDIANS

Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Gold, Guns and Ghost Towns - Chalfant 4.05 Indians, Yosemite, Yesterday and Today - Godfrey

John Muir, Protector of the Wilds - Haines-Morrill 2 00 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (paper) 2 20 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (cloth) 3 25 Mother Lode Country, Guide to the - Brockman .60 100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (paper) 2.20 100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (cloth) 3.25 Steve Mather of the National Parks - Shankland 6.20 Wilderness World of John Muir, The - Teale 4.85 Yosemite: The Story of An Idea - Huth .35

GEOLOGY AND MAPS

Geologic History of Yosemite Valley (Prof. Paper 160) - Matthes 5 75 Geology of Yosemite Valley, Brief Story of - Beatty

High Sierra Camp Areas, Pocket Guide to - Clark

High Sierra Camp Areas, Trail Guide to - Clark

Incomparable Valley, The - Matthes (paper) 2 15 Map of Yosemite National Park, Topographic - USGS

Map of Yosemite Valley, Topographic, (geology story printed on back)

North Country of Yosemite, Pocket Guide to - Clark

North Country of Yosemite, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15 South Boundary Country, Pocket Guide to - Clark

South Boundary Country, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15

FOR CHILDREN

A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) - 3.00 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00