October 1959

YOSEMITE VOLUME XXXVIII — NUMBER 10 OCTOBER 1959

—Whittenburg,

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.

Cover — Autumn in Yosemite Valley Photo by Onus Ward

Since 1922, the monthly publication of the National Park Service and the Yosemite Natural History Association in Yosemite National Park. John C. Preston, Park Superintendent Douglass H. Hubbard, Park Naturalist Robert F. Upton, Associate Park Naturalist Paul F. McCrary, Assistant Park Naturalist Herbert D. Cornell, Junior Park Naturalist Robert A. Grom, Park Naturalist Trainee

VOL. XXXVIII OCTOBER

1959

SODA SPRINGS

Mary E. Whittenburg, Ranger Naturalist Many a weary hiker has quenched his thirst with the ice cold bubbling waters of the somewhat famous Soda Springs which rise at the northern side of Tuolumne Meadows. You should, too, if the opportunity presents itself. Fill your cup and then dangle your hand in the clear soda water; the chill of it seems to penetrate right to the bone. Add a bit of lemonade or any fruit juice you prefer to your cup and settle yourself in the grass for the pause that refreshes. Soda water as a substitute in baking powder makes delicious biscuits and pancakes, too. Besides the appeal of this refreshing water, there is the allure of mystery. No one seems to know where the springs come from. Reference to these springs is made in books, but nothing is said about their origin. So, here are the facts, the wild guesses, and the arguments that have been presented in books and in lively discussions among naturalists and by-standers. The problem now belongs to you, the reader, also. A geology book will tell you that soda or carbonated springs usually arise in volcanic districts where there are subterranean sources of carbonic acid. If this acid under pressure comes in contact with percolating water, a large amount is dissolved. When the water reaches the surface, the pressure is released and bubbles of carbon dioxide gas escape. We then have a carbonated spring. However, the books also say that Soda Springs is not in a volcanic district. The word "volcanic" refers to openings in the earth from which molten material is ejected. Although these springs may not be in a volcanic area, the granite dome from which the water emerges was once molten magma. Of the gases present in ordinary magmas, steam usually comprises about eighty to almost one hundred per cent. Second in abundance is carbon dioxide, which results principally from the inclusion of limestone in the molten mass. If

YOSEMITE

Soda Springs — Tuolumne Meadows the source of carbon dioxide can be found, then the mystery will be solved. Perhaps magmatic carbon dioxide was included in minerals and percolating water is absorbing the carbon dioxide. Soda Springs is only about twenty seven miles from Mono Lake which contains about seventy-five million tons of sodium carbonates. The carbonates are probably deposited when excessive evaporation takes place. There may be lakes supplying water to Soda Springs containing a fairly high concentration of carbonates which would be the source of carbon dioxide. Objections to this theory would be that a constant source of carbon dioxide would be needed and that the lakes in the immediate area of Soda Springs seem to be mostly neutral. Glaciers once covered Tuolumne Meadows. One of the deposits made in glaciation would be terrestrial organic matter. The decay of organic matter releases carbon dioxide. Water may be percolating through organic glacial deposit and absorbing the carbon dioxide. This theory may be a little far-fetched, but no thing should be overlooked. Probably the best solution yet presented by Bill Steinkraus, a ranger naturalist in Yosemite. He investigated and followed the drainage

pattern above Soda Springs. The approximate drainage pattern is found in the diagram opposite this page. Running parallel to this drainage pattern just above the springs were found major fractures in the granite. Near the fractures, Bill found some Volcanic rock and a piece of granite with a thick coating of iron oxide. Volcanic carbon dioxide may be originating from somewhere in the depths of the underlying granite or below it and mixing with the water. The iron coated granite and the iron-colored mound from which the spring bubbles may have a common source of iron in the fractures where a concentration of minerals is likely to occur. The reddish mound which marks each spring is carbonate of lime colored with iron oxide. This deposit is very common in carbonated springs. Besides the iron colored lime carbonate deposit, there are soda salts which appear in the adjoining grassy land. The following analysis shows the water to be primary and secondary alkaline in character. Analysis of the Lambert Soda Springs (Analyst and authority, F. M. Eaton (1909). Constituents are in parts per million) Temperature

8° C. (47° F.)

Properties of reaction: Primary salinity 11 Secondary salinity

Tertiary salinity

Primary alkalinity

Secondary alkalinity

Tertiary alkalinity

Reacting Constituents: By Weight Value Sodium

9.96 Potassium 53.14 Calcium

9.81 Magnesium

1.64 Iron 62.22 Aluminum Sulphate (SO4) 24.49 Chloride

1.87 Carbonate (CO3)

18.80 Silica (SiO2)

1.93 1,168.5 Carbon dioxide (CO2) present present There are the facts. Perhaps you will be the one to find the solution.

DIGGER PINES AT 5200 FEET

Jack F. Fry, Ranger-Naturalist Rolf W. Benseler, Junior Specialist in Forestry School of Forestry, University of California The digger pine (Pinus sabiniana) is usually found in the lower foothills. Cole ("The Cone Bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park", YNN XVIII; 5), states that this tree is normally found between 600 and 2000 feet in the Yosemite region. A group of digger pines at approximately 5000 feet was called to our attention; the purpose of this article is to give a brief report of the location and some of the pertinent information regarding these trees. This group of digger pines is located in Section 17, Township 5 South, Range 21 East, M.D.M. It is just west of the Wawona Road at a point 0.8 miles north of the junction of Alder Creek and Wawona Road. The trees are growing on a steep, southfacing slope at an elevation of from 5100 to 5200 feet. The soil is shallow and is of granite origin. The most northerly tree is about 20 feet down from the road and is opposite U.S.G.S. benchmark K715. This particular tree is also located higher on the hillside than any of the others. The number of mature trees present in this group is from 25-30. Several of these trees were observed to have numerous cones. In order to obtain a clue as to when these trees became established, an increment boring was taken from one of the largest, and by this technique, the age of the tree was estimated to be approximately 100 years. The diameter of the trunk at breast height was 34.5 inches. (Increment boring is a technique whereby a core is removed from the trunk of a tree by means of a hollow drill. From this core, the annual rings can be counted and the approximate age of the tree determined.) An increment boring was taken from a smaller tree with diameter at breast height of 21 inches. The age of this tree was estimated to be from 23-25 years. Other species of plants in this area are: California black oak (Quercus kelloggii), canyon live oak (Q. chrysolepis), buckbrush (Ceanothus cuneatus), riposa manzanita (Arctostaphylos riposa), and hard tack (Cercocarpus ledifolius). The buckbrush, manzanita, and hard tack were abundant. Also present in the area are pines which exhibit characteristics of both Ponderosa (Pinus ponderosa) and Jeffrey (P. jeffreyi). These trees are presumably hybrids, since hybridization is known to take place between those two species. These digger pines are scattered among the ponderosa-Jeffrey pines and brush. A few hundred feet below this group is another scattering of diggers. Scattered stands of digger pines can be seen on the opposite side of the canyon of the South Fork of the Merced River. Cole (ibid) states that digger pines are growing at 6000 feet in the Hetch Hetchy region. A detailed study of the ecology of these regions would undoubtedly reveal many interesting facts. It is hoped that such a study may be made in the not too far distant future.

CONSERVATION QUOTES

I earnestly recommend the establishment of a Bureau of National Parks. Such legislation is essential to the proper management of those wondrous manifestations of Nature, so startling and so beautiful that everyone recognizes the obligations of the government to preserve them for the edification and recreation of the people... every consideration of patriotism and love of nature and of beauty and of art requires us to expend money enough to bring all of these natural wonders within easy reach of our people. The first step in that direction is the establishment of a responsible bureau, which shall take upon itself the burden of supervising the parks and of making recommendations as to the best method of improving their accessibility and usefulness.

-WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT

— ANDREW SMITH

For every far-seeing conservationist there have been scores or hundreds of short-sighted practical persons who thought that we should be satisfied with a small number of areas which in narrow boundaries preserved specific scenes of wonders of nature. They lost sight of the need for spacious areas, if the wilderness, with its endowment of plant and animal life, is really to be preserved as more than a museum piece.

HORACE M. ALBRIGHT DIRECTOR, 1929-1933 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

A CEDAR GROWS BESIDE A BRIDGE

Mary V. Hood —Photo Copy by A. William Hood Sentinel Bridge, circa 1865 The Upper Hotel shows little change from 1859 except that window frames have been added. Later accounts refer to this building as the Cedar Cottage. The first bridge has been replaced by a more substantial structure. The man in the boat may be James M. Hutchings, who purchased the hotel in 1864. On the far bank a fair size bush is growing, and to the left, a magnifying glass reveals a small incense cedar. The photographer was Eadweard Muybridge, who is known to have visited Yosemite Valley several times. —Courtesy of California Historical Society

—Photo Copy by A. William Hood Sentinel Bridge between 1876 and 1878 Here the hotel is freshly painted and a porch has been added. River Cottage and Sentinel Hotel appear in the center and right background. The latter was built in 1876. The bridge is still of wood but has been rebuilt and strengthened. The small incense cedar continues to survive, or has been replaced by a sturdier seedling. Courtesy of Francis P. Farguhar

—Photo Copy by A. William Hood Sentinel Bridge between 1878 and 1918 Cedar Cottage remains much the same. Immediately behind can be seen the large incense cedar that was enclosed in a room while Mr. Hutchings operated the hotel. This was known as the Big Tree Room. The rooms at the right end of the porch were at this time a photographic studio. The wooden bridge has been replaced by an all-metal structure which records state was built in 1878. The incense cedar is now about twelve feet high. —Photo by George Fiske

—A. William Hood Sentinel Bridge, September 9th, 1958 In 1941 Cedar Cottage was razed. The incense cedar of the Big Tree Room can be seen, left-center rear. The upper foliage is quite sparse. The small incense cedar on the river bank has grown prodigiously and today measures three feet six inches in diameter at chest height. The concrete bridge, seen here, was built by the Gutleben brothers, who also built the hotel at Glacier Point.

THE BIG OAK FLAT ROAD TO YOSEMITE BY IRENE PADEN AND MARGARET SCHLICHTMANN

The yells of drivers and the smell of dust come to life in this account of one of the first roads to enter Yosemite Valley. Beginning in 1849 as a miners' trail to the southern gold fields, twenty-five years later it became one of the principal roads used by early-day visitors into Yosemite Valley. The authors have done an outstanding job in bringing together a vast amount of authoritative information into an interesting and readable book. Winner of the Commonwealth Club award. 356 pp., 36 illus., 7 maps.

PAPER $4.25 BUCKRAM $5.35

Above prices include postage and tax.

YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA

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All mail orders should be addressed to, and remittances made payable to, Yosemite NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, Yosemite NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA. Prices include postage, insurance, and on proper items, California State Sales Tax 3%, plus 1% County Tax.

GENERAL

Adams' Guide to Yosemite Valley, Illustrated -$1.65 Auto Tour of Yosemite National Park - Ditton and McHenry

Campsite Finder (Western) - Hartesveldt

Climbers Guide to High Sierra - Sierra Club 3 25 Devils Postpile National Monument - Hartesveldt

Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (paper) 3 75 Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (cloth) 5 40 Going Light - With Backpack or Burro - Sierra Club 2 25 Happy Isles Nature Center, Your Guide to - Hubbard

National Park Story in Pictures - Story

National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (cloth) 6 20 National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (paper)

Nature Trail - Inspiration Point Self-Guiding - Carpenter

Nature Trail - Mariposa Grove Self Guiding - Wason

Place Names of Yosemite Valley - Hartesveldt

Rocks & Minerals, How to Know Them - Pearl

Starr 's Guide to John Muir Trail and High Sierra Region 2 25 This is California - Obert 8 00 Waterfalls, Famous, of the World - Brockman

Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada - Ansel Adams & John Muir 12 70 Yosemite Story, The - Scott 1.20 Yosemite Trails & Tales - Taylor

ANIMAL LIFE

Animal Tracks, Field Guide to - Murie 4 30 Birds of Pacific States - Hoffman - 6 20 Birds, Western, Field Guide to - Peterson 4 30 Birds of Yosemite - Stebbins

Fishes of Yosemite National Park - Evans-Wallis

Mammals, Field Guide to - Burt and Grossenheider 4 30 Mammals of Yosemite National Park - Parker

Reptiles and Amphibians of Yosemite National Park - Walker

Survey of Sierra Nevada Bighorn - Jones

TREES AND FLOWERS

Broadleaved Trees of Yosemite National Park - Brockman

Cone-bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park - Cole

Ferns, Field Guide to - Cobb 4 30 Sequoias, Yosemite, Guide to the - McFarland

Wildflowers of the Sierra (80 color photos) - Hubbard

Wildflowers, Western, Field Book of - Armstrong 5 40

HISTORY AND INDIANS

Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Gold, Guns and Ghost Towns - Chalfant _ 4.05 Indians, Yosemite, Yesterday and Today - Godfrey

John Muir, Protector of the Wilds - Haines-Morrill 2.00 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (paper) 2.20 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (cloth) 3.25 Mother Lode Country, Guide to the - Brockman

100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (paper) 2.20 100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (cloth) 3.25 Steve Mather of the National Parks - Shankland 6.20 Wilderness World of John Muir, The - Teale 4.85 Yosemite : The Story of An Idea - Huth

GEOLOGY AND MAPS

Geologic History of Yosemite Valley (Prof. Paper 160) - Matthes 5 75 Geology of Yosemite Valley, Brief Story of - Beatty

High Sierra Camp Areas, Pocket Guide to - Clark

High Sierra Camp Areas, Trail Guide to - Clark

Incomparable Valley, The - Matthes (paper) 2 15 Map of Yosemite National Park, Topographic - USGS

Map of Yosemite Valley, Topographic, (geology story printed on back)

North Country of Yosemite, Pocket Guide to - Clark

North Country of Yosemite, Trail Guide to - Clark

South Boundary Country, Pocket Guide to - Clark

South Boundary Country, Trail Guide to - Clark 1 15

FOR CHILDREN

A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper)..... 1.20 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00