July 1959

YOSEMITE VOLUME XXXVIII - NUMBER 7 JULY 1959

‘-NATIONAL

PARK SERVICE IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.

COVER—Many readers of the March issue of Yosemite have expressed interest in a picture of both Roosevelt and Muir. The Underwood and Underwood photographer was on hand Glacier Point on this day in May 1903 and snapped the picture which is our cover for this month.

Since 1922, the monthly publication of the National Park Service and the Yosemite Natural History Association in Yosemite National Park. John C. Preston, Park Superintendent Douglass H. Hubbard, Park Naturalist Robert F. Upton, Associate Park Naturalist Paul F. McCrary, Assistant Park Naturalist Herbert D. Cornell, Junior Park Naturalist Robert A. Grom, Park Naturalist Trainee

VOL. XXXVIII JULY

1959

NO. 7 JOHN MUIR AND THEODORE ROOSEVELT IN YOSEMITE

By William E. Colby The article in the March 1959 trip. Only two years earlier Dr. Mer- Yosemite NATURE NOTES, Part II of "President and John Muir were together Presidential Visits to Yosemite is admiron a trip into Tuolumne Meadows, admirable and contains much valuable on the first major outing of the Sierra first-hand information as related by Charles Leidig, who accompanied Muir and Roosevelt as one of the hikers. Immediately on his return the trip John Muir gave me a detailed account of it and the following recollections of what he told me I'll add some interesting sidelights.

Dr. Merriam's suggestion was heartily accepted by Roosevelt and he at once extended an official invitation to John Muir to accompany him. Muir had already promised Professor Sargent of the Arnold Arboretum (one of the world authorities on trees) to take a trip with him Dr C. Hart Merriam, head of the to study the forests of Asia and their United States Biological Survey in tickets had already been bought. So, Washington was largely responsible at first, Muir intended to decline the for bringing the two men together. President 's invitation. However, He was a close friend of both, havMuir 's friends told him that an inviIt ►V been on trips with each, and as tation from the President was in efSean as he was advised that Presifect a command and it would be dent Roosevelt 'intended to visit Yolese majeste to refuse. This argument Mantle, he realized that John Muir, had little weight with a man of Muir's with his Yosemite and love-of-nature independence, but when his friends background, would be the ideal cornurged that the trip would give Muir portion for the President on such a an exceptional opportunity to con-

Although John Muir was most active in the Yosemite region, his conservation ideals were so broad as to include many other areas of national interest. He spent some time in Yellowstone and was delivering an address on Conservation of Natural Resources before the Commonwealth Club in San Francisco and would not board the special train

until after midnight. Muir asked to be shown to his Pullman berth as it was 10 p.m. and he wished to retire and get some sleep. He was advised that this would be highly proper and that protocol called for his staying up till the President arrived. Anyone who knew John Muir would know what his reaction to this would be. He was in his berth asleep when the President arrived long after midnight.

Muir went down to the Oakland Mole where the President's special train was being made up in preparIn the morning John Muir ation for his trip. The President was taken into the President 's private

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car and introduced. In order to be of California), changed to the waiting sure not to forget what Sargent had stagecoaches. They arrived at the requested, Muir had Sargent 's letter Mariposa Grove of Big Trees late in in his overcoat pocket and handed it the afternoon. They all got out near over to the President. But Muir had the Grizzly Giant and viewed the forgotten that Sargent had fallen out magnificent forest in that vicinity. with Roosevelt because the President had failed to keep him on the Federal Forestry Commission as Chairman, and in the early part of the letter Sargent had referred to Roosevelt as that blankety-blank President, and laid it on pretty thick. When the President reached that part of the letter, he burst into uproarious laughter. Muir, realizing the mistake he had made, grabbed the letter back. An incident like that delighted the President, and he advised Muir that the President never wrote letters directly to the heads of other governments but that letters to our Ambassadors in those countries would serve every purpose and these would be forthcoming.

Only a favored few were in on the secret that President Roosevelt and John Muir were to spend the night sleeping out under the giants. The politicians had planned otherwise and had arranged for a great dinner at the Wawona Hotel that night. When they found that the principal figure was not to be there they were dumfounded. All the details of the President's trip had been kept strictly secret for security reasons. No secret service men accompanied Muir and Roosevelt, something unprecedented.

Roosevelt's baggage, either by -o our Ambassador in those countries mistake or purposely, had been taken would serve every purpose and these would be forthcoming.

The special train pulled in at Raymond and the party, which was a large one, composed of leading politicians (Governor George C. Pardee, among them, and also Benjamin Ide Wheeler, President of the University of Arizona), changed to the waiting stagecoaches. Roosevelt's baggage had been taken on to the Wawona Hotel although he had ordered it left at the Mariposa Grove. When he found that his orders had been disregarded he lost his temper in characteristic fashion. With gritted teeth he told the men in charge in most emphatic language.

" You go down to Wawona and bring back my baggage as quick as God will let you."

[Photo Caption: John Muir's keen mind was always assembling nature's secrets which he shared freely with his fellowmen. —Photo by Helen Muir]

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back my baggage as quick as God its branches. Muir told me the camp will let you. " This incident made was in a fine grove of Abies magnifica. quite an impression on Muir and he (red fir) and that he made a fir bed repeated it to me with all of Roosevelt's fervor. A very light snow was falling and, with a good They slept out under the giant campfire out in front far enough trees that night in a place selected to prevent injuring the trees, they by Muir. Here they camped cosily under the trees facing the fire. The next morning Leidig and Here they had some of their memorable Leonard, Yosemite 's first Park rangers arrived with the saddle horses. After more talks on conservation and Muir viewing convinced Roosevelt that the Yosemite Valley, which was then a State Park, should be turned back to the Federal Government and become part of the great surrounding Yosemite National Park. The party took the old trail to Glacier Point. That night they camped at the crossing of Bridalveil Creek. [Caption text unclear]

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Muir had read in the papers that two standing at Glacier Point, which soon as his Presidential term exappeared in all the papers, is charthe President planned to take acteristic of the two men President trip to Africa hunting wild game Roosevelt exuding vitality, assertivethat he was going to get pairs nes and leaderhip, Muir demure (no groups of the important animals pun intended), retiring, shrinking mounting and exhibition in the from the limelight—but both of them African Museum of Natural Hisinflexible when it came to a matter in New York. Muir, with his of principle. tch forthrightness and natural From Glacier Point they went down ire to protect all wildlife, took this the trail into the Valley by way of opportunity to criticize Roosevelt for Nevada Fall, stopping in the Valley t Muir considered a very unjust destruction of wildlife. He cottage where they met a few favo d, "Mr. President, I understand ored ones. While they were crossing f you plan a trip to Africa soon the Sentinel Bridge on horseback a Old that you are going to slaughter youngster shouted out, "Hello, Teddy." Lot of those poor defenseless critters over there," Roosevelt was and evidently a little out of patience at getting back into the crowds, reined in his mount and proceeded to give the small boy a lecture on propriety and deference to elders. To the consternation and disappointment of the politicos, the announcement was made that Roosevelt and Muir would camp that night in view of Bridalveil Fall where the stages were waiting. But there was also talk about slaughtering animals for sport, which Muir opposed. Of course Muir's viewpoint had little effect on the President's policy and he visited Africa as planned and brought back to the United States one of the greatest collections of animals ever to be displayed for public view. However, Roosevelt admired Muir for his blunt sincerity and they became the lastest of friends. This trip with Roosevelt gave Muir an exceptional opportunity to discuss with him problems of conservation and preservation of parklands and forests. Muir convinced the President of the great desirability of having California turn back to the United ing California turn back to the United States the jurisdiction and control of Yosemite Valley, isolated as it by the great surrounding Yosemite National Park created by Congress. The next day they traveled to Glacier Point, stopping on the way to ascend Sentinel Dome. Roosevelt was tremendously impressed with the view of the Valley and the High Sierra from the Dome and from Gla- (1) See also "We'll Camp Tonight at Bridalveil" by Ralph Anderson, Yosemite Nature Notes, May 1951, Vol. XXX, No. 5. The photograph of the two men standing at Glacier Point, which appeared in all the papers, is characteristic of the two men President Roosevelt exuding vitality, assertiveness and leadership, Muir demure (no pun intended), retiring, shrinking from the limelight—but both of them inflexible when it came to a matter of principle.

Note: Editor Ralph Anderson of the Washington Office has called to our attention that Roosevelt possibly did not spend the night at the Wawona Hotel as we stated in the March 1959 Issue of Yosemite. However, the register of the Wawona Hotel for Monday, May 18, 1903, contains Roosevelt's signature along with the signatures of members of his party. Who can tell us for sure?

—McIntyre', NPS The parks do not belong to one state or to one section. They have become Democratized. The Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon are National Properties in which every citizen has a vested interest; They belong as much to the man of Massachusetts, of Michigan, of Florida, as they do to the people of California, of Wyoming, and Arizona.

STEPHEN T. MATHER FIRST DIRECTOR, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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Congress largely on the recommendation and initiative of Muir. At the end of that year, at Muir 's request, I drew up a bill which was submitted to the State Legislature in January 1904, receding the Yosemite Valley to the federal government. The bill passed after a long and bitter fight and Congress, after another hard battle, accepted the recession. Roosevelt promptly signed it as he told Muir he would. It was this friendship made on this camping trip, which much later resulted in Roosevelt's issuing Proclamations creating the Grand Canyon and also the Petriii. Forest National Monuments in Al: zona. It was, therefore, mighty lucky for conservation that Muir decided to postpone his Siberian trip wit!. Sargent and to visit Yosemite w.l! Roosevelt. FOOTNOTE - In the April 1959 article on President Toft's visit to Yosemite Valley in 1909, the that John Muir received a special invitation to accompany the party is not mentioned, but the illustration of the party standing in front of the Grizzly Giant, John Muir is at the right of President Taft. On that trip he was with Taft on Taft's famous walk down the Four Mile Trail ti, Glacier Point to the Volley floor. Muir managed to get in a few words in opposition to San Franc, application for making o reservoir of Hetch Hetchy Valley. President Toft's administration later deli the application, but Taft was defeated when he ran for a second term and Congress, taking il„ matter in hand, passed the bill which doomed the Hetch Hetchy. John Muir grieved so over this th„r there is no doubt that it hastened his death a short time later.

YOSEMITE THE CALIFORNIA BUCKEYE

By Robert W. Crippin, Ranger-Naturalist The oddly beautiful, shrub-like buckeye (Aesculus californica) is an Inhabitant of the Coast Ranges of central California and the dry foothills of the central Sierra Nevada. It is native to the upper Sonoran Zone in Yosemite National Park and, in general, is not common above 2000- 3000 feet. It is often associated with the foothill oaks and other chaparral. In the park the buckeye extends up the Merced Canyon as far as El Portal and reaches Hetch Hetchy in the Tuolumne Canyon. It usually grows in clumps, scattered among other pines. Seldom is it found in a pure stand.

The buckeye expresses the seasons in California—the wet winters and dry summers. It has adapted itself to our Mediterranean climate because, by nature, it is not suited to our long, dry summers. It concentrates its luxuriant growth in the wet springs and sheds its leaves in the late summer to endure the enforced drought, which lasts summer until February, but in the spring when the refreshing pale green leaves first appear. Again it is startling in early summer when the trees are covered with thousands of fragrant, white blossoms in great candelabra-like spires. Finally, it is interesting in the fall when the curious seed pods hang from bare boughs. In the park the buckeye extends up California buckeye grows from ten the Merced Canyon as far as El Por_ to twenty feet high and from three lal and reaches Hetch Hetchy in the to six inches in diameter, with gray California buckeye grows from ten to twenty feet high and from three to six inches in diameter, with gray or whitish, smooth bark. The crown is usually broader than high and is rather flat topped. The leaves are numerous and wide-spreading. They are opposite and palmately compound. Each leaf is made up of usually five leaflets that are broadly lance-shaped, bright green on both sides and three to five inches long. They are shed in August, leaving the bare limbs which cause visitors to the park to think the trees are dying.

The Forty-Niners knew it well and they gave it the name of California pear because of its pear-shaped seed pods. Its common name comes from the shiny brown seed which suggests a buck's eye. Botanically it is a member of the horse-chestnut family.

Amid all the somber, needle-leaved evergreens and the glittering broad-leaved trees of Yosemite National Park, the buckeye makes a striking contrast. It is one of the most beautiful and unique of western hardwoods; not only in its shining nakedness, which lasts from late

The long, compact clusters of snowy white flowers, four to six inches long, reach out stiffly and rather regularly all over the crown. Only a few flowers near the top of the cluster, however, have fertile pistils which can develop into fruit. The flowers come in May and June, long after the leaves have unfolded.

The mature fruit is pear-shaped, two and one half to three inches long. It is golden brown in color, smooth, covered by a green husk and hangs conspicuously from the tips of the bare branches. Frequently more than a thousand seeds are produced by a good sized tree.

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Though poisonous to cattle and humans, these seeds were a staple in the diet of the California Indians. Nuts in their raw state were placed in the conventional "baking pit" lined with hot stones and allowed to steam for several hours. They were then sliced and placed in running water for from two to five days, or mashed into a paste and leached. The resulting mash was usually eaten cold. Often the meal was mixed with clay to neutralize poisonous qualities. These nuts were used only when acorns were scarce.

Mashed nuts were often used as a fish poison. The Indians put the mash in creeks and pools and then gathered the stupefied fish. They also used the buckeye as a medicine to ease toothache and other pains.

In areas where the buckeye grows profusely, beekeepers suffer heavy losses from its poisonous nectar, but the honey is safe to use.

The wood, though it has no reputation in the lumber business, is long lasting, even in contact with the soil. Hence it makes fine fencepost material in the foothill ranching country where it delights to grow.

A buckeye may not grow large but that is not for lack of years. It is said that it takes one hundred years to mature, and that it may live another hundred without making much growth.

FLOWER SUCCESSION IN MEADOWS

By Glenn B. Coy, Ranger-Naturalist The meadows of the Sierra are flower gardens. This is because of the abundance of moisture and possibly the greater depth of the soil.

The early flowers around the borders are dwarf members of the mimulus group. Dogwood gives a green and white frame to the picture. These areas undergo a succession of By the end of June the showy blooms from soon after the spring shooting star (Dodecatheon Jeffreyi) thaws until well into the summer has begun to make its appearance. season. Some may persist until Labor The wetter meadows then become Day or early fall. Many meadows nearly solid carpets of lavender show a distinct succession of prefrom these relatives of the cyclamen. dominant colors. The earliest phase Here and there ' are white tufts of is predominantly purple or pink. knotweed or tiny green and white These may be followed by whites spears of the rein-orchis, a tiny but and then yellows. easily recognized orchid. The deep As if to contradict this, the earliest blue shading of camas (Camassia plants in high areas around Bridalquarnash) reinforces and gives depth veil Creek are the small marsh marito the general background. On the golds (Caltha biflora). These are not showy as single flowers so much as in mass displays, while the grasses and borders meadow lupines point to the showy as single flowers so much as sky and compliment the pink Sierra in mass displays, while the grasses forget-me-not (Lappula rediviva) and are still growing. On the ground the blue of mertensia. A delightful

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A delightful surprise on the ground are diminutive masses of color. In drifts and favored spots, however, one can find blue and white violets. ored spots, however, one can find drifts of sneezeweed (Helenium bigelovii), an unpleasant name for a beautiful flower, and the cone flower (Rudbeckia californica).

With no great fanfare, the scene changes next to a predominance of whites with the blooming of the corn lily (Veratrum californicum), often mistaken for skunk cabbage. The spectacular sow parsnip (Heracleum lanatum) is much less subtle addition to the picture.

Spikes of golden rod (Solidago elongata) are clumped here and there, as though to break up the family meadow hosackia and other lotuses, which may take over some meadows almost entirely with their flowers which look like yellow sweetpeas.

The last part of this changing scene is largely a family affair, involving the sunflowers or composites, almost entirely. Queen Anne's lace (Eulophus bolanders) is, however, the dominant plant. It replaces former purples and pinks with drifts of white, like midsummer snow banks.

As summer ends and fall approaches, the flowers gradually disappear. In their places we find grasses turning to gold bearing full fruiting heads. Each plant, with its display of fruits and seed pods, is preparing for the dormant season and the reenactment of the colorful drama in the coming year. Meadows which were formerly swamps are now dry. Yellows are becoming the dominant shades. Gone are the great Cathedral Peak rises serenely above lovely Tuolumne Meadows, largest in the Sierra Nevadas. This meadow displays a bountiful array of alpine flowers throughout the short growing season that exists at this high altitude, 8,600 feet.

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The Royal Arches and Washington Column were photographed by Weed from the bank of the Merced River in 1864. Trees have now overgrown the meadow and provide shade for campers in Camp 7. —Hood, 1957

PUBLICATIONS FOR SALE AT THE YOSEMITE MUSEUM

All mail orders should be addressed to, and remittances made payable to, Yosemite NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, Yosemite NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA. Prices include postage, insurance, and on proper items, California State Sales Tax 3%, plus Madera County Tax.

GENERAL

Adams' Guide to Yosemite Valley, Illustrated $1.65 Auto Tour of Yosemite National Park - Ott and McHenry .60 Campsite Finder (Western) - Hartesveldt 1.65 Backpacker's Guide to High Sierra - Sierra Club 3.25 Devils Postpile National Monument - Hartesveldt

Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (paper) 3.75 Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (cloth) 5.40 Going Light - With Backpack or Burro - Sierra Club 2.25 Happy Isles Nature Center, Your Guide to - Hubbard

National Park Story in Pictures - Story

National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (cloth) 6.20 National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (paper)

Nature Trail - Inspiration Point Self-Guiding - Carpenter

Nature Trail - Mariposa Grove Self Guiding - Wason

Outdoor Hazards - Real and Fancied - Hood 4.25 Origin Names of Yosemite Valley - Hartesveldt.

Rocks & Minerals, How to Know Them - Pearl .65 Starr's Guide to John Muir Trail and High Sierra Region 2.25 This is California - Obert 8.00 Waterfalls, Famous, of the World - Brockman _

Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada - Ansel Adams & John Muir --__ 12 70 Yosemite Story, The - Scott 1 20 Yosemite Trails & Tales - Taylor

ANIMAL LIFE

Animal Tracks, Field Guide to - Murie 4.30 Birds of Pacific States - Hoffman..................................................................................... 6.20 Birds, Western. Field Guide to - Peterson..-- _--_--_- -_4.30 Birds of Yosemite - Stebbins

Fishes of Yosemite National Park - Evans-Wallis

Mammals, Field Guide to - Burt and Grossenheider 4.30 Mammals of Yosemite National Park - Parker

Reptiles and Amphibians of Yosemite National Park - Walker

Survey of Sierra Nevada Bighorn - Jones

TREES AND FLOWERS

Broadleaved Trees of Yosemite National Park - Brockman

Cone-bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park - Cole

Ferns, Field Guide to - Cobb 4.30 Sequoias, Yosemite, Guide to the - McFarland

Wildflowers of the Sierra (80 color photos) - Hubbard

Wildflowers, Western, Field Book of - Armstrong 5.40

HISTORY AND INDIANS

Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (paper) _--- 1.20 Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (cloth) - 3.00 Gold, Guns and Ghost Towns - Chalfant - 4.05 Indians, Yosemite, Yesterday and Today - Godfrey --_

John Muir, Protector of the Wilds - Haines-Morrill 2.00 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (paper) 2.20 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (cloth) 3.25 Mother Lode Country, Guide to the - Brockman

100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (paper) 2.20 100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (cloth) 3.25 One Thousand California Place Names - Gudde 1.15 Stephen Mather of the National Parks - Shankland 6.20 Wilderness World of John Muir, The - Teale - 4.85 Yosemite : The Story of An Idea - Huth

GEOLOGY AND MAPS

Geologic History of Yosemite Valley (Prof. Paper 160) - Matthes 5.75 Geology of Yosemite Valley, Brief Story of - Beatty.....

High Sierra Camp Areas, Pocket Guide to - Clark

High Sierra Camp Areas, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15 Incomparable Valley, The - Matthes (paper) 2.15 Map of Yosemite National Park, Topographic - USGS

Map of Yosemite Valley, Topographic, shaded (geology story printed on back)

North Country of Yosemite, Pocket Guide to - Clark

North Country of Yosemite, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15 South Boundary Country, Pocket Guide to - Clark

South Boundary Country, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15

FOR CHILDREN

A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 Animal Friends of the Sierra _ Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00