November 1959

YOSEMITE VOLUME XXXVIII - NUMBER 11 NOVEMBER 1959

IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.

Rev. La Rue C. Watson and his Model T Ford at the Mariposa Grove enroute to Yosemite Valley, July 10, 1922. —Photographs by author COVER — North Dome

Since I922, the monthly publication of the National Park Service and the Yosemite Natural History Association in Yosemite National Park.. John C. Preston, Park Superintendent Douglass H. Hubbard, Park Naturalist Robert F. Upton, Associate Park Naturalist Paul F. McCrary, Assistant Park Naturalist Herbert D. Cornell, junior Park Naturalist Robert A. Grom, Park Naturalist Trainee

VOL. XXXVIII NOVEMBER

1959

A TIN LIZZIE AND DIRT ROADS

Rev. LaRue C. Watson As I recently glided swiftly, which the load could be tied. easily and comfortably into the At the time I was pastor of the Yosemite Valley on the Wawona Congregational Church at Tehachapi, in the late model car of a friend. When my annual vacation time friend, it reminded me of another arrived I took my wife and three entrance I had made — it was so children to my father 's home on a different! ranch near Visalia, where we spent The previous trip was in July 1922, a few days in preparation for the 37 years ago, at a time when there "Great Adventure." was not one paved road into the Saturday a.m., July 8, 1922, when Valley. I didn 't want to go out the I cranked the "Tin Lizzie" to start same way, so I asked a park ranger our journey, you could scarcely see as to the best route for leaving the the flivver or its occupants on account of the baggage piled high on gave me the classic answer of those the outside. days, "It doesn 't make any differWe left our six year old son, ence. No matter which road you Glenn, with my mother on the take you 'll wish you had taken some ranch. Going with me were my faother one." ther, Rev. C. E. Watson, my wife, It was in the days of the Model T Metta, and our daughters Violet, ten Ford, of sainted memory, with wide years old, and Agneeta, four and a running boards and flat fenders on half years old. which great quantities of luggage That first day we drove about 137 and camping equipment could be miles via Madera and Raymond to piled, with plenty of steel rods in Nipinnawassee, where we camped the upper structure of the car to over Sunday near a schoolhouse.

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At the Wawona Tunnel Tree. Rev. Watson and daughter Violet. Monday, July 10, we drove about 34 danger of bouncing the car into a miles to Wawona, where we drove mass of wreckage. It was the most just across the river and set up our "washboardy" dirt road I ever saw! camp for the night on the meadow, It was worse than driving over railnear the river. Not far away was the road ties. old historic covered bridge. From the constant physical strain On the way to Wawona we took of holding my foot firmly on the the side trip through the Mariposa " low" pedal and the brake, I was Big Tree Grove, driving through the trembling with exhaustion when we tunnel in the Wawona Tree, and reached the Valley floor. My brake eating lunch beside the Grizzly Giant linings were burned out and a spring Tree, where President William Howas broken. Thank goodness, even ward Taft and John Muir and their in those early days there was a party were photographed in 1909. garage in the Valley. Tuesday, July 11, we drove about We made camp with our owl. 27 miles into the Yosemite Valley, tents in Lower Camp 16, which I eating lunch on the way at Inspirajudge was about where the Housetion Point, which is about 900 feet keeping Camp now is, about half-way higher than the present observation way between Camp Curry and the terrace at the end of the tunnel as old Yosemite Village. In one direction we had a clear view of Upper you enter the Valley. What a drive that was! For miles Yosemite Fall, and in the opposite that seemed endless we could not direction we could see Glacier go over five miles per hour without paint.

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Deer often wandered right through My father and I went swimming our camp; bucks, does and fawns. in the plunges at Camp Curry and This was in contrast with my recent Yosemite Lodge. In those days there visit when I saw lots of deer, but was already a museum in the Valthey were all does. At least one or ley, and a zoo, which I understand two times, in the evening, we drove has been discontinued as a matter down the Valley a short distance of principle. to the garbage dump. There the visiBoth July 19 and 20 there was tors formed an arc with their cars, heavy rain for several hours, with a with their headlights pointed to the little hail on the latter day. center, where numerous bears fed Saturday, July 22, my father and I on the garbage, completely ignoring loaded ourselves like pack horses the people and the lights. with blankets, food, canteens, etc., During the weeks we were in the and hiked past Vernal and Nevada Valley we walked and rode to all Falls to the head of Little Yosemite points of interest on the Valley floor, Valley, where we bedded down on and took many hikes up the trails to the ground for the night. We estithe top of Yosemite Falls, Glacier mated that we had hiked about nine Point, Vernal and Nevada Falls, etc. and a half miles from camp. Here in After one of these strenuous hikes the Little Yosemite Valley we inwe adults would return to camp spected an old abandoned cabin, thoroughly tired out, but the girls whose history I do not know. would still be ready to play tag and As father was in poor health, he romp around camp. decided that one night of such Camping in Yosemite Valley, Lower Camp 16, in 1922.

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Contrary to National Park Service policy, a zoo was maintained in Yosemite National Park in 1922. The Service believes that for the fullest enjoyment and appreciation of park wildlife, they should be seen in their natural surroundings. roughing it was enough, so the next But that was not my first visit to day we walked back to camp via Yosemite Valley. Six years earlier, the horse trail, which we estimated in July 1916, now 43 years ago, I to be about ten and a half miles. attended the annual convention of My vacation time passed all too the Northern California Congregaswiftly, and at 6:00 a.m. on Saturtional Conference at Camp Curry. I day, July 29, we had our outfit loadtook the Southern Pacific train to ed and started home via the WaMerced on July 23, 1916, arriving wona-Merced Road. We ate breakthere at 10 :30 a.m. At 2:15 p.m. I fast at Chinquapin and noon lunch left Merced on the Yosemite Valley beside the road. We had supper in a Railroad, which I understand has restaurant in Madera and reached since been deactivated, and arrived father's ranch near Visalia about at El Portal, the end of the line, at midnight. 6:10 p.m. We estimated that I drove about At 6 :50 p.m., I left El Portal on the 180 miles that day. In these days of auto stage and about 9 :00 p.m. areasy grades, paved roads and morived at Camp Curry. The stage had darn autos, that would be nothing to several wide seats, but no top, givtalk about, but in "those good old ing the passengers an unobstructed days" of heavy grades, rough dirt view of the tall trees and towering roads, and Tin Lizzies, it was a real cliffs and waterfalls. day' s work! A feature of the nightly campfires

and some other occasions at Camp gan to roll, a mischievous impulse Curry was the voice of David Curry, took possession of me. Curry's mouth "The Stentor of the Yosemite," and was open, just ready for his farewell the proprietor of Camp Curry. He shout, when I cut loose with a pretty was very proud of his loud and fargood imitation of his usual farewell. carrying voice. At the campfires he A look of blank astonishment would face Glacier Point about half spread over his face. As we rolled a mile above the camp and shout out of sight his mouth was still open, "Hel-lo Gla-cier, Yoo-Hoo, " and then but not a sound came forth. Mr. jokingly boast that his voice carried Curry died the next year and I never four miles via the Four-Mile trail, to had an opportunity to apologize to Glacier Point. him. Daily when the stage departed for Now, after all these 43 years and El Portal, Curry's stentorian voice two subsequent visits, the beauty would boom "Fare-well, Yoo-Hoo." and grandeur of the Yosemite Valley are still an abiding impression in my life.

CONSERVATION QUOTE

Fortunately for all of us, parks have quite different meaning which concerns itself, Antaeus-like, with the physical necessity of man to keep in touch with nature. It is that eon-old longing of the soul to find a haven of rest. No matter how much we do indirectly by way of sports and athletics for the body, the spiritual hunger and search for things hidden is the true answer to the question, "Why parks, " Parks are the dietetics of the soul—a refuge, a place to regain spiritual balance and find strength and, if needed, a place of resignation from the turbulent world without.

Richard Lieber

GREAT SIERRA MINE CABIN, TIOGA HILL

This old cabin is being stabilized as a museum in place by the National Park Service and interested volunteers. Photo by Walter Huber, 1919 The superlative natural landscapes and the outstanding historic sites of the world should be preserved and their integrity zealously guarded. The great scenic areas furnish the inspirational, recreational, and educational values so greatly needed today. The preservation of historic sites will generate love of country and enable those of the present generation to familiarize themselves with, and to understand, the struggles and accomplishments of those who preceded them.

HORACE A. TOLSON ASSISTANT DIRECTOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

EDIBLE WILD PLANTS

Glenn B. Coy, Ranger-Naturalist Have you ever wondered which mal life, there is no reason for exerof our native plants are edible? Can tion of agriculture or nomadic wana person really " live off the land?" dering. Detailed organization of The answer to these questions is tribes is necessary when wars best made by studying the food habthreaten, but no wars are necessary its of the Indians who were forced to when there is more than plenty for live on what they could find. all. The Indians of California had Many authorities in the past have found that security of which everydescribed the tribes of California as one dreams and, although it was not decadent and lacking in ambition. a land flowing with "milk and This opinion stems from the fact that honey"; it was, nevertheless, a land they were mere food gatherers teaming with acorns and game. rather than hunters as were the InThe chief food of most Indians in dians of the plains, or agriculturists California was the acorn. Oak trees as those of the Southwest and East. of many varieties abound in our However, where food is plentiful in state from a Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia) to the Black Oak (Q. kelloggii). A chuck-ah was used to store acorns over the winter months.

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bigli) of the mid-mountain regions. the Buffalo Berry (Shepherdia argentea) All acorns require some leaching as were eaten as were the seeds of the Spaniards found to their discomfort, but many wild grasses. The seeds of the tart, but some have less tannate than Wild Sunflower (Helianthus) were others. These were more popular eaten much as peanuts are eaten among the tribes which had a choice. today. In the coastal areas the Coast Live For those Indians living in the Oak was the preferred tree. As they regions of swamps, the Cat-Tail moved inland, the Valley White Oak (Typha) provided roots which could (Q. lobata) became the favorite. This be eaten raw or ground into flour. was replaced in the foothills by the These were rich in protein but were Canyon Live Oak (Q. chrysolepis) and not as rich in oil as cornmeal. Flowby the Black Oak in the lower part ers were boiled and made into soup. of the Transition Life Zone. These The Arrowhead (Sagittaria) and the acorns were usually ground and Tule (Scirpus lacustris) provided roots cooked into a mush or cakes. One which were roasted or boiled. These problem with the deciduous Black taste somewhat like a potato. Oak was that its acorns took two The chaparral covered hills proseasons to mature and, therefore, the vided an abundant variety of berries yield would be fat or lean. and seeds while in their stream Inevitably, when the acorn crop canyons lived green plants for varwas disappointing, other plants were iety. The seeds of the Hollyleaf used to take its place. One of those Cherry (Prunus ilicifolia) were called used by the tribes in the foothill islay by the Indians. Its fruits were valleys was the California Buckeye discarded. Many varieties of berries (Aesculus californica). One problem were found in the Blackberries, Huckwas caused by the fact that these leberries (Vaccinium) California Holseeds were extremely poisonous. ly (Photinia arbutifolia), Currants and They required an extensive process Gooseberries (Ribes). The Serviceof leaching and cooking before they berry (Amelanchier alnifolia) was dried could be eaten safely. As a result and made into loaves sometimes they were only used in emergencies. weighing 10 or 15 pounds. These A diet based solely on acorn mush were often flat, round disks that were would be quite monotonous and nusometimes eaten without cooking in tritionally unsound. A great variety the winter or thrown into stews or of foods were eaten to supplement soups. By some tribes they were the staple part of the menu. In the pounded into dried meat and fat to grassland plains the roots of the form pemmican. The red berries of Wild Onions (Alliurn) were dug from the Buckthorn (Rhamnus) were eaten the ground and eaten raw or cooked raw but had the embarrassing while the tender shoots of the Turnfaculty of turning the bodies of the bleweed (Amaranthis) were cooked diners into a red color. The berries like spinach or eaten raw. Later, of the Squawbush (Rhus trilobata) Mustard, and Lamb 's Quarters, and made a very refreshing beverage the Ice Plant (Meseurbryanthemuni when soaked in water. • (brysta11innnl) were introduced from The leaves of the California Laurel other parts of the world and eaten (Umbellularia californica) were, and the same way. In the Cuyama Valley are used today for flavoring of meats and around Mt. Pinos the berries of and stews giving to them a bay

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flavor. The leaves of the Miner 's cooked into a mush. Some tribes Lettuce (Montia perfoliata) provided dried them and ground them into o miners and Spaniards as well as powder which they called pinole. We Indians with salad greens and potare told, though, that one hazard herbs. Incidentally, in reverse of the was they were considered hard to usual trend this plant has been introdigest. The wild Gooseberry (Ribes) duced into Europe where it is cultiand the Thimble-berry (Rubus parviflorus) were eaten with relish in slane. Another addition was the Luseason or were dried. The nuts of the pine whose new shoots were eaten Chinquapin (Castanea) and t h in the spring. Indian Thistle provided Hazelnut (Corylus rostrata) were conroots which were eaten raw or cook sidered a welcome break from the ed. monotony of an acorn mush diet.

The meadows of the Transition The forested areas of the mown forests are the areas of abundant tains such as the Sierra Nevada potherbs. These provide the Cows were not very productive of food Parsnip (Heracleum lanatum) and materials. Few Indians lived in them Milkweed (Asclepias) which were for more than just a summer visitaused as potherbs like spinach. One tion. One exception is the Miwok ocof the Cow Parsnip's relatives, the cupation of Yosemite. The abunWater Hemlock (Cicuta), is deadly dance of Black Oaks may account poison, however, and is easily mis for this. Nevertheless, there were a taken. The blossoms of the Milkweed number of plants which provided were also used for sweetening. berries, nuts, and potherbs. The ManSquaws would go out in the early zanita (Arctostaphylos) provided bermorning and shake the nectar into o ries which were soaked in water and pot. After the flowering season was made into a delicious cider. Someover the pods were collected and times they were eaten fresh or eaten fried. The underground shoots Tu-bu-ce prepares acorns for the making of acorn mush and bread.

of the Fireweed were boiled and have a sweet and agreeable taste. eaten in the early spring. The roots and coiled fronds of the The Indians of California used Bracken Fern (Pteris aquillina) were quite a few roots as vegetables. The also cooked and eaten. early miners, observing them busy It seems evident that the natives digging roots, named them Digger of California were neither in danger Indians, which became their cornof starvation nor suffering from a 16on name around the camps. monotonous diet. One should be cauOxtrnass (Camassia), the Leopard Lily tious, though, in experimenting too (Milla), and the Swamp Onion freely with eating these food plants ( Allium validum) all provided roots since some of them, like the acorn, which were flavoring for soups and required special treatment. Also, our slew. The roots of the Mariposa Tulip food tastes may not be like those of (Calochortus venustus) were also the Indians who may have had to boiled and eaten. In other parts of acquire a liking through the exigencies of circumstance. Many early The country members of this genus are called Sego Lilies. The root of settlers and trappers have described the Balsam Root (Balsamorrhiza sagitIndian foods in not too complimented) was cooked by the Nez Perce 'ust as well to contemplate the nuIndians on hot stones. It is said to back to our more traditional fare. For many years Tu-bu-ce showed and explained to visitors the ways of the Indians. Here she demonstrates their method of gathering seeds.

Many publications on Yosemite's natural history and human history are available from the Yosemite Natural History Association. Above are just a few of the special issues of Yosemite Nature Notes. A complete listing is on the opposite page.

YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA

PUBLICATIONS FOR SALE AT THE YOSEMITE MUSEUM

All mail orders should be addressed to, and remittances made payable to, Yosemite NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, Yosemite NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA. Prices include postage, insurance, and on proper items, California State Sales Tax 3%, plus 1% County Tax.

• GENERAL

Adams' Guide to Yosemite Valley, Illustrated $1 65 Auto Tour of Yosemite National Park - Ditton and McHenry

Campsite Finder (Western) - Hartesveldt

Climbers Guide to High Sierra - Sierra Club - 3 25 Devils Postpile National Monument - Hartesveldt

Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (paper) 3 75 Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments - Butcher (cloth) 5 40 Going Light - With Backpack or Burro - Sierra Club 2 25 Happy Isles Nature Center, Your Guide to - Hubbard

National Park Story in Pictures - Story

National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (cloth) 6 20 National Parks, The - What They Mean to You and Me - Tilden (paper) 1 15 Nature Trail - Inspiration Point Self-Guiding - Carpenter

Nature Trail - Mariposa Grove Self Guiding - Wason

Place Names of Yosemite Valley - Hartesveldt

Rocks & Minerals, How to Know Them - Pearl

Starr's Guide to John Muir Trail and High Sierra Region 2 25 This is California - Obert ----- ---- --° - - 8 00 Waterfalls, Famous, of the World - Brockman

Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada - Ansel Adams & John Muir 12 70 Yosemite Story, The - Scott °--- ° °-°--- 1 20 Yosemite Trails & Tales - Taylor -° °-°---.---°--°

ANIMAL LIFE

Animal Tracks, Field Guide to - Murie _ 4 30 Birds of Pacific States - Hoffman 6 20 Birds, Western, Field Guide to - Peterson 4 30 Birds of Yosemite - Stebbins -.85 Fishes of Yosemite National Park - Evans-Wallis

Mammals, Field Guide to - Burt and Grossenheider 4 30 Mammals of Yosemite National Park - Parker

Reptiles and Amphibians of Yosemite National Park - Walker

Survey of Sierra Nevada Bighorn - Jones °-

TREES AND FLOWERS

Broadleaved Trees of Yosemite National Park - Brockman

Cone-bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park - Cole

Ferns, Field Guide to - Cobb ° 4.30 Sequoias, Yosemite, Guide to the - McFarland

Wildflowers of the Sierra (80 color photos) - Hubbard

Wildflowers, Western, Field Book of - Armstrong 5.40

HISTORY AND INDIANS

Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (paper) 1.20 Ghost Mines of Yosemite - Hubbard (cloth) 3.00 Gold, Guns and Ghost Towns - Chalfont 4.05 Indians, Yosemite, Yesterday and Today - Godfrey

John Muir, Protector of the Wilds - Haines-Morrill 2.00 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (paper) 2.20 Miwok Material Culture - Barrett and Gifford (cloth) 3.25 Mother Lode Country, Guide to the - Brockman

100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (paper) 2.20 100 Years in Yosemite - Russell (cloth) 3.25 Stephen Mather of the National Parks - Shankland 6.20 Wilderness World of John Muir, The - Teele 4.85 Yosemite : The Story of An Idea - Huth °---°-- --°-- --°---°-°° °-

GEOLOGY AND MAPS

Geologic History of Yosemite Valley (Prof. Paper 160) - Matthes 5.75 Geology of Yosemite Valley, Brief Story of - Beatty

High Sierra Camp Areas, Pocket Guide to - Clark

High Sierra Camp Areas, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15 Incomparable Valley, The - Matthes (paper) °---°----2.15 Map of Yosemite National Park, Topographic - USGS

Map of Yosemite Valley, Topographic, (geology story printed on back)

North Country of Yosemite, Pocket Guide to - Clark

North Country of Yosemite, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15 South Boundary Country, Pocket Guide to - Clark

South Boundary Country, Trail Guide to - Clark 1.15

FOR CHILDREN

A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) 1 20 A Day with Tupi, An Indian Boy of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3 00 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (paper) __ 1 20 Animal Friends of the Sierra - Hubbard (cloth) 3 00 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (paper) 1 20 A National Park Adventure - Hubbard (cloth) 3 00