April 1954

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOLUME XXXIII • NUMBER 4 APRIL 1954

Climbers on the ice cone of Upper Yosemite Fall —Ralph dePfyffer

The Descent by Trail into Yosemite Valley (From Appleton's Weekly, January 18, 1873)

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF

THE Yosemite NATURALIST division AND

THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

John C. Preston, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist D. H. Hubbard, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Bryant, Junior Park Naturalist

VOL. XXXIII APRIL 1954 NO. 4 DOES IT PAY TO VISIT YOSEMITE?

By Olive Logan EDITOR'S NOTE : This is the second of three parts of the article that was begun in our last Issue. It is a reprint of an extraordinary narrative originally published 84 years ago in the magazine Galaxy for October 1870. The curious title has already taken on meaning for readers of Part I, who have followed the New York authoress and her companions on the first legs of a torturous journey from San Francisco to Yosemite in the days before any roads extended into the renowned valley. Part II finds the hapless travelers about to resume the bruising stagecoach ride that has brought them through the Sierran foothills on the Big Oak Flat Road. Part II At 10 o'clock on the night of the never was a galley slave, and have first day (having been jolted since 6 no very clear idea of what their o'clock in the morning) we pulled up special grievance is; but if they—or supperless at Garrote. Here, for the any other man—are or is treated first time in the journey so far, we worse than stage-drivers, landlords, got food which is eatable, even horses, and coaches treat pleasurepalatable. The cook is a Chinaman, seeking people en route to Yosemite, the landlady French, and the landall I can say is, Alas, poor Galley! lord a Boston man. "We must leave at 4 o 'clock," the driver says, as we At 4 o 'clock we were up and off. creep wearily and painfully to bed. The only thing that was really and "Oh, very well, just as you say; I'll unmistakably delicious in all this got up at midnight if you desire it; trip was the morning air. O sweet only—I thought this was a pleasure pine breezes, how I wish I could trip." have taken some of you home in my These satires were uttered by the pocket, as school-children do lolliThese of our party, who fondly hoped pops from a party. O odorous atmos w did we all—that now we had phere, how good you did smell! It as got to a haven, we could at least is gratifying to me to remember that have a full night 's sleep there. I sniffed up as much of you as I What an insane belief this was we possibly could, and opened my found out very thoroughly before mouth as wide as it would go, and the trip was over. The comfort of swallowed you whole. Passengers is just the last thing considered on the Yosemite journey, I find, and until we reached Big Gap

the road was endurable enough. Not impossible. Bang! bang! over This was lucky, because we were rocks and stones. Up we go to the so sore and stiff from the previous roof, and then down we are crushed day 's ride that a repetition so early on the hard-as-iron seats. The bride the next morning would have probfrom Chicago pays no more attenably killed us. The young bride's tion to her waterfall. Let it flap, let waterfall, too, had acted yesterday it fly, let it tumble off; she is reekin a very undignified manner from less, poor soul, with suffering. Even the merciless jolting it received. It yesterday her hysterical laughter as wobbled and wiggled and shot off she was flung about the stage broke hair-pins, and finally settled, a sticky now and then into a shriek; but tomass, somewhere in the region of day it is the shriek without the laugh. her left ear. She giggled as it wigShe is in agony. Great black rings gled, and clapped her hand to her show themselves under her eyes, head and vowed that it was too drops of cold sweat break out on bad! and that she was going to her forehead, her hands nervously shave her head like the Chinese, clutch the window straps; she supyou see if she didn 't! But this was plicates with tears to be allowed to her honeymoon, you understand, get out—to be left upon the road. when it is hard not to be looking She is sea-sick as well as sore, and one 's prettiest. So out she came on in truth we are all in a pitiable the second morning still bearing the plight, and nobody but ourselves, waterfall triumphant, though it and other travelled monkeys who flapped like a pendant flag through have endured this style of tail cutlack of the needful pins. Presently ting, to blame for it. And only to the road began to grow worse, then think that the worst is yet to come. worse; then—"Oh, driver, stop! let O Mrs. B., of Cambridge, Mass., no me get out and walk! Oh, do go wonder you cried bitter tears! 0 slowly! "—a chorus from inside. The distinguished Englishman at the brute, unmindful, tears madly on-- Grand Hotel, in sooth it does not jolting over rocks, goading his pay! horses down the hollows only to But this is premature. How do we run up the opposite side at an inknow it does not pay? We have not sane gallop, sending the battered seen the Valley yet. The Valley will inmates to the roof, where their repay us for all, the stage-driver heads are banged and beaten; says, as he stops to water his around jutting and dangerous precihorses. This is the first sign of pices, where one inch too near the human feeling we have discovered edge will pitch the stage, crashing in this brutal driver who took us through pines, to destruction. One from Chinese Camp to Hardin 's. Ii passenger—an interesting lumberthis should meet the eye of the man from Maine, whose fifteen stage-driver with the long German years ' exploits in California, as he name who drove us to Hardin ' s related them to us, would make a from Chinese Camp, he is requested curious and fascinating chapter-- to accept my compliments and those remembers when a stage did tip of the rest of the party in his coach, over from reckless driving. Not very and the assurance that the unilong ago. Stage broken all to smash, versal verdict of all assembled was and a lady killed. This is cheerful. that he is the vilest brute that eve' Will it be likely to do so some more? drove a horse.

During the respite afforded by the cast; Hank Monk was inexorable. watering of the horses some good "Keep your seat, Mr. Greeley," was souls, who still entertain the falhis derisive shout; "I'll get you there lacious idea that we shall be repaid in time." Whether alive or dead, he for all when we get into the Valley, said not; and nearer dead than try to amuse the rest by relating alive, he got him there in time. threadbare stories similar to those This is the story in its simple form. in vogue at sea in like distressing It has variations, like a fantasia for circumstances. The standard joke pianoforte. One of the most incitedat sea is the sailor 's mock remedy ible is that Mr. Greeley afterwards for sea-sickness—the bit of pork tied to a string. The standard joke in the presented Hank Monk with a watch, with the famous but futile injunction stage coach is the anecdote about inscribed upon it. Another and the Mr. Greeley and Hank Monk the most amusing is the recital of the driver. Everybody has heard it; no change in deferential address which matter, everybody must hear it took place between driver and pasagain. Probably you, reader, have senger by reason of this incident; for read it; be assured that trifling cir when the distinguished editor encumstance shall not deter me from tered the stage he was "Mr. Greeley," relating it to you here. with all honor from the driver, and To be brief, I will say that once the driver in turn was plain "Hank"; upon a time Mr. Greeley set out for but when he got out the editor was a trip over the mountains, having plain " Horace" in a patronizing for driver a celebrated character, by tone, and the driver was " Mr. Monk! " name Hank Monk. Perfectly aware But our horses have been watered of the dreadful condition of the road long before this, and our tortures over which they were travelling, this have again begun. Bang! bang! driver, with a consideration which "Keep your seat, Mr. Greeley! " his confreres would do well to em shouts the facetious-minded. And ploy, drove along for some miles at that of all things is just now the a slow and deliberate pace. Knowmost impossible. ing that he had a lecture engagernent to meet, Mr. Greeley called Hail, log cabin! Relief has come out to the driver that he should be at last. Here is where we drop the glad to get on a little faster, as he stage, and take the horses. We have had to be at a certain town at a cerdinner here. This is Hodgden's. The lain hour. "Oh, very well," cried three principal stations on this route Hank Monk, firing off the pistol-shot form an unpleasant alliterative trio in his whip-cord : ""just keep your —Hardin 's, Hodgden's, and Hutchseat, Mr. Greeley, and I 'll get you ings 's. Fancy a Briton tackling all there in time. " Off they flew at a these at once. Perhaps that was the thundering gait, rattling over the reason the distinguished English stones, bumping into ruts, while the man—but no! he went the other unhappy Mr. Greeley was shaken way, with its " Mariposa, " its "Horabout in the coach like an undigninitas, " and other liquid Spanish lied inanimate object; his venerable stations. Pardon, Monsieur l'Anglais. spectacles broken, his revered hat The dinner is execrable at Hodgthrown off his head, his white locks den 's. It is composed of salt beef, all waving in the dusty wind. In vain he cried for mercy; the die was cold beans, watery potatoes, and boiling tea, as weak as hot. We pay

the same price for it, however, as was only painlessly scalped. Withwe do for the delicious dinner at out joking, this poor creature's conthe Grand Hotel in "Frisco;" and indition is very alarming. We are deed log-cabin accommodations in afraid she will have to be left bethe mountains are more expensive hind. Her husband is sick. Every- (to tourists) than the finest quarters body is sick and sore. Poor idiots, in yon city shut in behind its Golden wandering on horseback over these Gate. And how we all wish we mountain fastnesses, we all get were there! what we deserve for coming! Dinner over, we mount our steeds Ferguson does not want to alarm —sorry brutes, who look at us with us, but says if we don't hurry up we eyes of sullen reproach. I must conwon 't get to Hamilton 's (another H!) fess they are badly treated. Not the at Tamarack Flat to-night. That will slightest politeness is shown even be bad, as there is not a single the most aged of them. habitation between us and that At first the change from the stage place. To increase our discomforts, to the horse is pleasant. At least night falls early and a heavy you can now regulate your own mountain rain sets in. We are miseries, and need no longer be a drenched and weary—oh, so weary! poor thing beaten and banged by a We let the reins fall over the horse' s merciless stage-driver without remorse. This is your theory. It is groundless. Ferguson now takes the place of the stage-driver and becomes the Avenger. The reader will scarcely ask me who Ferguson the Avenger is. He is the guide. Ferguson is a Mexican born in California, and as graceful and as handsome as a picture. No mistake about this. He 'd be a fortune for a painter, with his tawny, smooth skin tingling with red on the cheeks, his scarlet lips, his white teeth, his profusion of blackest hair. His other name is Manuel, and he has never been away from these mountains. He has never seen a steamboat, nor a railroad, nor a city. He wants to do so very much. So do we all just at that minute. His horse 's neck. He follows the trail of his own free-will, and has such an affectionate regard for the blazes, that he place of the stage-driver and bescrubs us up against the trees to our comes the Avenger. The reader will infinite discomfort. Another pleasing scarcely ask me who Ferguson the diversion takes place. Ferguson is Avenger is. He is the guide. driving a pack-mule heavily laden; Ferguson is a Mexican born in and with the obstinacy of its race, California, and as graceful and as every ten minutes or so it runs off handsome as a picture. No mistake and has to be followed on the keen about this. He 'd be a fortune for a gallop by Ferguson, hallooing and painter, with his tawny, smooth skin shouting, and using the rope about tingling with red on the cheeks, his his horse 's neck for a whip, driving scarlet lips, his white teeth, his proit back into the path. All our horses fusion of blackest hair. His other being accustomed to drive mules, name is Manuel, and he has never they all turn out and gallop after been away from these mountains. the offender, causing their weary He has never seen a steamboat, nor riders to perform involuntary circus a railroad, nor a city. He wants to feats which bring tears to their eyes. do so very much. So do we all just At Tamarack Flat the experience at that minute. Hamilton is ready—he is ready Particularly the bride from Chicago. Every time every saddle train al Hamilton is ready—he is ready for he knows the state the al bends her poor battered head down rivers will be in—and he lifts the upon the horse 's neck for relief. She is one of the poor tourist-women off their horses waterfall is gone—whither we know not. Our limbs are paralyzed. Some of us are barely alive; the bride from not. On investigation we find Ferguson has it. It dropped off in the trail, Chicago has swooned. The good wife Hamilton does all she can for us. She offers wine she rubs us with whiskey; and at front son has it. It dropped off in the trail, Chicago has swooned. The good and he thought her head was comwife Hamilton does all she can foi ing off, but picking it up found she us. She offers wine she rubs u :,

with whiskey; and at last all of us— time, to horse! There are only ten men, women, and children, married miles more of this torture left. At and unmarried, friends and total least so we are told by one party; strangers—lie down in the one only another says there are fifteen. In room which composes their cabin, San Francisco we were told that the and pass the night in blissful diswhole distance on horseback (of regard of civilization and modesty which we have come already conat once. A propos—lest the reader siderably more than ten miles) was might forget it, I wish to again rebut eighteen. Doctors and mounmind him here that this is a pleasure taineers disagree. At length an astrip. tute person settles it. "It may be We are up betimes in the morneighteen miles measuring as the ing, and quaff again the delicious bird flies, but as you don't go that way, mountain air. Time to be off! The you 'll find it ' s about double." No; rumor is that we shall get to Hutchnot being birds, we don 't go that ings's (in the Valley) at noon. Anway; that is, we are not birds unless other episode. A rival Ferguson, geese are birds. runner for the other route and the And now begins the weary trudge other Valley hotel, makes us more again. Oh, positively we shall never unhappy than we have hitherto live through it. We are obliged to been by aspersions on the fair fame be lifted from our horses every two of Hutchings, the host of the hotel or three miles, and placed under to which we are bound. Hutchings, the shade of trees to rest. The sun according to Ferguson No. 2, is a creeps higher and higher. It pours villain who starves his guests, and its burning rays upon our aching puts them into beds already habited heads, for we are again mounted. by another genus. The road over The pack-mule runs away; we all which we are to pass is more run with unpleasant regularity after dangerous, rockier, more mountainit, our horses trotting like trip-hamous, more unendurable than any mers, and beating the very breath wo have seen. These are reassuring out of our bodies. And so on and on Ikfings to people in our demoralized we go. Eight miles! It is eighty! At condition. Ferguson No. 1 denies the length we reach the precipice which aspersions of No. 2, and together is to conduct us into the Valley. They have it hot and heavy. Mean- (To be concluded in May issue)

YOSEMITE'S CURIOUS FRAZIL ICE

By Donald E. McHenry, Park Naturalist Just about this time every spring deposit was spreading eastward tothe word gets around Yosemite Valward the fringe of the Government ley that the ice cone at the base of residential area and the utility yards Upper Yosemite Fall has "gone out." of the Yosemite Park & Curry Co. To the casual observer the "evidence " is quite clear in the mass of frothy ice. This frazil ice was a baffling aggregate of matter. It was hardly solid frothy ice in and along the channel enough to manipulate successfully of Yosemite Creek where it flows toward its junction with the Merced River. The rumor spreads quickly among the local inhabitants, for is not this a sure sign that winter is over?

This is a very natural misinterpretation of a phenomenon whose true story is actually more exciting, even though it may rob the event of its significance as a harbinger of spring. The white substance choking the creekbed is not the residue from a suddenly collapsed ice cone, but rather packed "frazil ice."

Frazil ice may be defined in simplest terms as a milky mixture of ice crystals and water. Its presence in the valley streams, though not uncommon and sometimes a nuisance, does occasionally assume dramatic proportions. Such was the case on Friday, April 10, 1953. Early in the day there was nothing spectacular about the scattered rafts of this mushy ice flowing half submerged in the waters of Yosemite Creek. By midday, however, more and more of these floating masses were crowding in on each other, pushing and shoving until the creek channel became jammed with the stuff, and forcing the excess over the banks and out across the adjacent portions of the Yosemite Creek delta. Soon the spur road to the base of Yosemite Falls was covered, and the snow-resembling frazil ice was only clearing the streamcourse so that the streamcourse could be cleared, but at the same time it had enough consistency to block effectively the normal flow of the creek. This caused the water continually to dam itself and thereby shift its course this way and that, so suddenly that it was difficult to anticipate where it would flow next.

Once the packed ice had lifted the creek out of its natural bed, it thereafter wandered at random over the upper fan of its delta, constantly laying down new frazil ice wherever it went. The stream curdled within itself the means of its own diversion.

To watch it was both fascinating and dangerous. A tongue of water might approach the observer, only to halt a few feet away while it paused to build yet another dam; after a few seconds of ominous quiet while the impounded water rose behind its barrier, it would suddenly burst forth with startling violence to proceed again in a new direction.

The observer had better not be standing in this revised path!

Shortly after noon much of the flow of the creek was passing over the highway just west of the bridge, and was threatening some of the nearby homes of valley residents and cottages in the Yosemite Lodge area. Snowplows working up the spur road attempted with very little success to break a path through the 3-or-more-feet-deep frazil ice, but as tinually to dam itself and thereby This is a very natural misintershift its course this way and that, so pretation of a phenomenon whose suddenly that it was difficult to antrue story is actually more exciting, ticipate where it would flow next. even though it may rob the event of Once the packed ice had lifted the its significance as a harbinger of creek out of its natural bed, it therespring. The white substance choking after wandered at random over the the creekbed is not the residue from upper fan of its delta, constantly Jaya suddenly collapsed ice cone, but ing down new frazil ice wherever it rather packed "frazil ice." went. The stream curdled within itFrazil ice may be defined in self the means of its own diversion. simplest terms as a milky mixture To watch it was both fascinating of ice crystals and water. Its presand dangerous. A tongue of water ence in the valley streams, though might approach the observer, only not uncommon and sometimes a to halt a few feet away while it nuisance, does occasionally assume paused to build yet another dam; dramatic proportions. Such was the after a few seconds of ominous quiet case on Friday, April 10, 1953. Early while the impounded water rose in the day there was nothing specbehind its barrier, it would suddenly tacular about the scattered rafts of burst forth with startling violence to this mushy ice flowing half subproceed again in a new direction. merged in the waters of Yosemite The observer had better not be Creek. By midday, however, more standing in this revised path! and more of these floating masses Shortly after noon much of the were crowding in on each other, flow of the creek was passing over pushing and shoving until the creek the highway just west of the bridge, channel became jammed with the and was threatening some of the stuff, and forcing the excess over nearby homes of valley resident :; the banks and out across the adand cottages in the Yosemite Lodge iacent portions of the Yosemite area. Snowplows working up the Creek delta. Soon the spur road to spur road attempted with very little the base of Yosemite Falls was success to break a path through the covered, and the snow-resembling 3-or-more-feet-deep frazil ice, but a.; 1. See C. A. Harwell's "The Ice Cone of Yosemite Falls," Yosemite Nature Notes 14(5):41-44, May 1935, and Sterling S. Cramer's "An Observation of In Yosemite Fall Ice Cone." Yosemite Nature Notes 31(5):50, May 1952.

soon as one place was somewhat of saving property in the area. The cleared the spongy substance quickfootbridge alongside the Yosemite ly assembled elsewhere as the Creek highway bridge was lifted off water shifted course almost in the its foundations by the packed frazil twinkling of an eye. These shifts, ice which threatened to carry it whether control of them were atdownstream. A trail bridge over the tempted or not, were as uncanny as creek in the upper "Lost Arrow forthey were unpredictable. est" was also dislodged, while a Skirting the expanding carpet of second one was completely deice, I tried to cross several intervenstroyed. By this time an area of ing deposits of this frozen froth only about 40 acres was deeply blanketed to find that I would sink deep into by the ice and water, and the main it. Climbing up over the rocks I was flow of Yosemite Creek was diverted finally able to reach a point near away from the spur road eastward the Yosemite Falls view parking to the border of the utility area of the area, now completely covered. Here Yosemite Park & Curry Co. a strange thing was observed. For This caused a portion of the creek some reason a branch of the stream to seek a route through this develophad compacted the frazil ice while ment, endangering the buildings and still maintaining a channel along stored materials there. As evening the top of the crest, so that a rather approached, desperate attempts striking ice aquaduct about 4 feet were made to deflect the flow back high and several feet across had deinto its proper channel. Darkness voloped. In time even this was overwas ushered in with the roar of bullwhelmed by the greater mass of ice dozers and the flashing lights of which was increasing in volume. other heavy equipment as efforts By late afternoon the situation were made to throw up earth and was reaching such alarming dimensandbag dikes. One caterpillar 'lions that it now became a problem tractor sank deep in mud along the Hubbard I.111 Yosemite Creek running along the Yosemite Falls spur road due to diversion by frazil April 10, 1953, (Right) Snowplow later Clearing this road of the ice, which covered „d., i.1)) in Irt in all.

creekbank and had to be abandoned until the place was dry. It was not until much after dark that the struggle to control the situation was finally given up to await the following day.

Frazil ice is not peculiar to Yosemite Creek. It will be found under proper conditions in all streams the struggle to control the situation coming from the various waterfalls was finally given up to await the leaping down the valley walls. Ribfollowing day. bon Creek usually presents such a Saturday morning 's work was to display, though in much less quantibe attended by tragedy. Shortly ty because of the minor size of its after daybreak crews were again flow, and Bridalveil Creek may be laboring near the warehouses — expected to behave similarly. Frazil machines snorting vigorously, men ice also appears in the Merced River and cables straining. Someone conitself, much to the consternation of ceived the idea that if a man were those involved in the maintenance to get out near the main course of of the valley's domestic water and the creek by crossing the frazil ice power systems. on snowshoes, some more effective Just what is the nature of this submeans might be found to clear it. stance which acquires such imporThe man who chose to make the Lance in Yosemite Valley now and try had gone but a short distance then? Frazil ice usually develops on this tricky surface when his during periods of cold weather in snowshoes sank into the ice. Imthe spring months, when the volume mediately the spongy mass closed of streams is high and, therefore, over the snowshoes and he was turbulence of the water is relatively trapped in icy water. Already great. The phenomenon can be angreatly weakened through long ticipated whenever a spell of mild hours of work, his futile efforts to spring weather — which causes extricate himself completely exsnowpacks to melt rapidly and hausted him. By ingenious methods waterfalls to swell in volume — is fellow workers were able to rescue suddenly broken by a sharp drop in him and he was taken home, but temperature of the air. While the there he suffered a severe heart flow of the falls remains large, much attack which led to his retirement of the spray freezes in descent, formafter a long siege of critical illness. ing ice crystals. In the churning A deer that had wandered into the stream below the falls these crystals frazil ice was not so fortunate. are carried under the surface and Though no one witnessed its dithe entire body of water is converted lemma, it was later found drowned, into a mixture of ice and water. evidently having been trapped and When the floating crystals touch subsequently becoming exhausted. any surface that has a temperature By Saturday noon the jam was even a fraction of a degree below finally broken through the use of a the freezing point—such as a sub dragline, and the rushing waters merged rock or bridge support or e swept the frazil ice along the formation of ice—the crystals in channel to the Merced River. All stantly adhere and form a spongy, this time a powerful marine pump rapidly growing mass that can was in operation at the mouth of quickly choke even the largest Yosemite Creek, hosing water onto the packed ice to open it up, in hopes of relieving the pressure of the jam upstream. Great turbulence, together with the rapidity of freezing, hopes of relieving the pressure of are the special conditions responsible the jam upstream.

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frazil ice.2 Because these condideck of this bridge but never quite lions are so well met in Yosemite 's succeeded in covering its railings; high waterfalls and climate, unin March 1954 the bridge was so doubtedly Yosemite Valley is one engulfed that no part of it was of the principal places in the world visible in the frozen white sea. The where the striking action of frazil ice record of temperatures for this can be observed. year's flow is as follows: The frazil ice flow that has been Date Temperature (C F.) described for April 10 last year was March 8 46 I Volume of Yosemite one of the heaviest on record. The 9 45 Falls became high stage was set for it by a warm spell 10 40 during this period In the early part of the month that brought Yosemite Falls up to boom volume, followed by a drop to 12 20 Flow reached peak' temperatures of 24°, 23°, and 27° 13 25 on April 8, 9, and 10, respectively. The ice cone of Upper Yosemite Two other flows occurred later in the Fall does not suddenly break up season, reaching peaks on April 30 and fill the stream with ice. Rather and May 9. On Friday, March 12 of this year, an impressive accumulation of frazil ice appeared once again on the Yosemite Creek delta. As warmer spring weather invades the valley the big ice cone almost lotion of frazil ice appeared once imperceptibly disappears through again on the Yosemite Creek delta. a combination of melting and washThis time the mass was concentrated ing. Those who have jubilantly anflour the upper portion of the area, nounced the passing of the rigors of and reached greater depths—probwinter when they observed ice ably 15 to 20 feet. A good measuring clogging Yosemite Creek should stick was provided by the huge know that this represents a fascinatwooden footbridge that spans Yoing phenomenon of unusual freezSeinite Creek just below the lower ing conditions the formation of fall : the flows of 1953 deposited frazil ice, not necessarily a barmuch frazil ice beneath and over the binger of spring. Walter J. Parsons, Jr., 1942. "The Evolution of Ice in Streams," Physics of the Earth—IX: Hydrology. McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York and London, s Bryant T he path to the base of Yosemite Falls after it was cleared of frazil ice deposited on April 0, 1953, Photo taken a month later. The last of this ice, which might be mistaken for

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