September 1951

YOSEMITE

Nature Notes

VOL. XXX SEPTEMBER,

1951

NO. 9

Sugar pines in Yosemite National Park Cover Photo : Aerial view of Yosemite Valley and the Yosemite high Sierra. Made and donated to Yosemite Museum by Mr. Clarence Srock of Aptos, California. See back cover for outline index chart.

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF

THE Yosemite NATURALIST division AND

THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

C. P. Russell, Superintendent P. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist H. C. Parker, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Bryant, Junior Park Naturalist

VOL. XXX SEPTEMBER, 1951 NO. 9 YOSEMITE'S PIONEER ARBORETUM

By O. L. Wallis, Park Ranger A pioneer attempt to "interpret" quarters was established at Camp the botanical features of Yosemite A. E. Wood near Wawona. Major National Park for its visitors was the Bigelow, Ninth Cavalry, was the acting superintendent. Wawona in 1904 by Maj. John BigeIt is apparent from his reports of low, Jr. This was 16 years before 1904 that the major was deeply inDr. Harold C. Bryant initiated the terested in all natural history, but nature-guiding service in Yosemite, especially did he enjoy trees. He the nucleus of the present naturalist wrote that the forest reservation of interpretive program for the entire Yosemite had the following purposes: National Park Service. To provide a great museum of nature for Evidences of this arboretum and the general public free of cost.... To preserve not only trees, but everything that is associbotanical garden can still be found ated with them in nature; not only the sylva, along the banks of the South Fork but also the flora and fauna, the animal life, of the Merced River, across from the and the mineral and geological features of the country comprised in the park. A. E. Wood campground. Here, With this in mind the arboretum where paths wandered throughout was founded. The project is dethe 75-acre area, 36 trees and plants scribed in detail in the 1904 report of were identified and labeled. Seats the acting superintendent. Ten piefor the comfort and signposts for the tures showing some of the labeled guidance of strangers were contrees and shrubs and two of the structed along the trails. Today, 47 benches illustrate the report. Bige years later, eight trees bearing their low hoped the arboretum would be original signs have been relocated. supplemented by a building serving The trails are faintly visible in the the purpose of a museum and underbrush. Even scars remain on library. the bench-trees" to show where The following year, however, the seats were located. new acting superintendent,Capt. In 1904 Yosemite National Park, H. C. Benson, reported that "unforwhich did not yet include Yosemite tunately the location selected for the Valley and the Mariposa Grove of arboretum was on patented land on;Giant Sequoias--these being under the south side of the river. This land the State's care, was administered has, by the act of February 7, been by the U. S. Army. The park's headthrown out of the park, and it will

soon be the site of the tracks of an Just across Big Creek, the first electric road which is to come up the identified tree (No. 2) was relocated. South Fork. Surveyors in passing Nailed to it was a 9 x 14-inch board, through knocked down and depainted light buff, on which was stroyed some of the signs, but as printed "Alder Alnus rubra. " High many as possible have been gathamongst some boulders a little furered up and safely stored for future ther on (No. 3), I found a Douglas-fir use on land within the park." which was labeled "Douglas spruce The "old nature trail near WaPseudotsuga Douglasii." wona" was "rediscovered" in 1929 Along the trail at No. 4, a giant by Ranger J. N. Morris (Yosemite Na- ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) was ture Notes, 9(3), 1930). At that time 20 labeled "Yellow pine" followed by trees with labels were found as well the correct Latin synonym. The next as a sign with the inscription "Big tree (No. 5), from which the label Creek" identifying the stream which was missing, was a "Douglas flows along the eastern edge of the spruce" pictured in the 1904 report. area. In 1932, the area in which the just beyond this Douglas-fir an oak arboretum is located was taken bearing a healed-over blaze marked back into the park as part of the the point where the faint trail forked Wawona Basin addition. into two branches. On the uphill Armed with this information and branch a sugar pine and a ponderthe 1904 pictures, I set out on Deosa pine, both still labeled, were cember 26, 1950, and again on April growing very close together (Nos. 17, 1951, to discover and to photo6, 7). Directly downhill from them, graph what remained of this pioneer near the river (No. 8), was a white arboretum. Proceeding along the fir (Abies concolor) labeled "Magnif- bank of the South Fork for a mile or icent or silver fir Abies magnifica." so below Wawona, I came to the Another sugar pine (No. 9) and a mouth of Big Creek. Here, nails and " Douglas spruce" (No. 10) were also scars on some alders showed where discovered. one of the seats pictured in the 1904 A little beyond and uphill from report had been (No. 1 in diagram). this last Douglas-fir, I found the in-

-WAWONA ROAD CAMP A.E. WOOD !'NO ' CAMPING"

SIGN 'SOUTH FORK OF MERCED RIVER INDIAN MORTAR ROCK BLAZED OAK BIG CREEK INDIAN MORTAR ROCK LOCATION OF OLD ARBORETUM AT WAWONA

cense cedar bench group (No. 11) original signs. Originally California illustrated in the 1904 report. It was black oak, cottonwood, Sierra junilocated about 100 yards up from the per, and canyon live oak were also river and directly across from the identified, as well as 17 species of "No Camping" sign along the Washrubs and 2 herbs. wona Road, upstream from the A. E. Unfortunately the area is accessiWood campground. The seat was ble only by fording Big Creek or the missing, but scars and bits of wood South Fork. However it is relatively indicated where it was once built. simple to do this by midsummer On all but one of the eight when the water is low. From the A. E. signs still present the lettering, alWood campground one may cross though aged by weather, was plainthe South Fork, turn left (eastward), ly visible. Of those trees pictured in and walk a few steps upstream to the 1904 report, five have been losee signs of the arboretum created cated; three of them still bear the 47 years ago for our enjoyment.

DEATH OF A SCORPION

By Anne M. Belisle, Field School, 1951 One sunny afternoon in July, I gait the skink using its sharpwalked out on the porch of the toothed, strong jaws for attack weamuseum in Yosemite Valley just 5 pans; the scorpion, its venomous minutes too late. The ooh's and ah's tail-stinger as its sole means of dewere all that was left! I had just fense. The skink opened its jaws missed seeing a battle between a wide, rushed upon the scorpion, and Yosemite skink (Eumeces gilberti grasped it firmly through the center gilberti) and a scorpion. of its long abdomen. With this firm hold it bit down hard and shook the The ranger naturalist saw my reaction and asked if I would scorpion violently. The expected action of the latter occurred. It threw like to see another scorpion which he up its tail and hit at the side of the had tucked away in a jar in the little skink's head. The first time the sting room behind the information desk. of the scorpion had quite an effect As I had never seen a living scorupon the skink. It did not cause pion before, I was delighted. After paralysis, but the skink dropped the examining it quite closely, we descorpion and slowly rubbed its head cided to send this poor specimen to in the gravel at the bottom of the its doom in order to watch the battle cage. The scorpion, in the meantime, between a reptile and a scorpion. was also rather dulled in its moveWe first offered it to a garter ments. It moved off, but not with snake, then to a blue racer. Since the swiftness this eight-legged relaboth snakes avoided and shied tive of the spiders and ticks can away from it, the scorpion, which usually achieve. was about 3 inches in length, was After rubbing its head for about dropped from the jar into a cage one minute in the gravel, the lizard with two skinks. It had not been in again made an offensive charge the cage more than a minute when against the scorpion. This happened the smaller (but mature) of the two three times in all. Each time the lizards detected it, and registered stings of the scorpion were more immediate interest. The battle benumerous, but with less and less

Yosemite skink Photo by Carl P. Ruedl effect. The third time the repeated consuming its food. Its method of stings were completely ineffectual, consumption is similar to that of and the skink bit and shook violently snakes. Having removed the prountil the scorpion's body grew limp. jecting pedipalps, it bit off the fore The sting of the scorpion usually section of the scorpion's body and stuns its victims. Perhaps the thickswallowed it whole. Apparently apness of the scales typical of all repproving of the taste, it continued its tiles served as a protection for the meal. It took the front end of the ablizard. domen and started swallowing it Having conquered its prey the whole by a series of muscular conskink put it down and bit off both of tractions which were very evident to the scorpion's pedipalps (the greatly the onlooker. The contractions in the enlarged, pincher-bearing appendthroat were very regular. At the beages at the front of the body). The ginning of each contraction the skink scorpion's body is composed of two shook its reddish head slightly from main sections--a compact and unside to side. It continued the contractsegmented fore part and a long, ing, shaking, and swallowing until segmented abdomen. The fore secthe entire abdominal section includtion has four pairs of legs in addition ing the tail and stinger was conto the pedipalps. This latter pair of sumed. appendages is used for grasping the If lizards could be likened to peespiders and insects which the scorpie, I would say that this Yosemite pion captures, and from which it skink's expression was one of great sucks the body juices. Scorpions satisfaction and enjoyment. After the have a specialized sucking stomach scorpion was all gone, the lizard which aids them in this. The pedicontinued to open its mouth, contract palps contain very little flesh, as its throat for a short time, and shut they are composed mainly of the its mouth again in a manner sim- shell-like covering of the body. The ilar to smacking. The skink's diet skink showed no interest in these usually consists of small insects. hard appendages, but bit them off However, this battle shows that, and laid them aside. should the paths of a Yosemite skink Not only are the pedipalps low in and a scorpion meet, the skink will food content, but they would have not hesitate to take up the fight and been a hindrance to the skink in eat its conquered victim.

THE COULTERVILLE ROAD

By Shirley Sargent Whereas the once proud Coultercovered a third grove of giant seville Road exists on present park quoias within what is now the park! maps as an insignificant dirt road, Compared to the magnificent Mar'it pioneered as the first stagecoach posa Grove, the Merced Grove—so

route into Yosemite Valley. To drive named by McLeanwas small, but down or up it even now is a thrill the discovery was heralded and the for modern-day tourists who may proposed route changed so that visknow the romance but not the dis- 'tors would be driven through the comforts of a Concord Coach or a grove of some 50 sequoias—eloquent "mud wagon." of history and greatness. Work was Increasing numbers of saddle-sore pushed forward on the road, now visitors, enduring the long, formidaaltered so that its route was via ble trip into Yosemite Valley by Coulterville, Merced Grove, Big horseback, compelled action from Meadow (site of Meyers' ranch), and early-day residents of Yosemite and on to the valley floor. The realignbusinessmen located in towns en ment of the road added $10,000 to route. Better transportation was the original construction cost, mak- needed. By the late 1860 's wagon ing a total of $71,000 to be returned roads were being extended to meet in tolls. Tolls, collected at the Costhis demand. Spearheading the excades, varied from $1.00 per pas

pansion was the Coulterville wagon senger down to 50c for each bicycle road, originating in the gold boom and rider, 37½c for loose animals, town of Coulterville (named for the and 10c for sheep and hogs. Acarea 's first storekeeper, George W. cording to the July 1943 issue of Coulter) and reaching as far as

tolls taken Crane Flat. Soon the State park comthrough 1899 amounted to only missioners were presented with $33,932.71 a return of about $2,000 Plans for two stagecoach routes into annually. From these figures it is the valley. One was offered by the apparent that the Coulterville Com-Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike pony did not benefit financially from Company, founded by Dr. John T. the building of the road, but the inMcLean and associates in 1859; the direct revenues to businessmen in other route was applied for by the towns along the way and in the val. -Big Oak Flat and Yosemite Turn- ley—were immeasurable. pike Company. However, the latter On June 17, 1874, the Coulterville company's application to construct Road was completed and opened to the final stages of its wagon road stagecoaches, passenger and freight into the valley came to the comteams. Thanks to Dr. McLean and missioners after they had granted exhis associates, Yosemite history was elusive rights to the company made: the "era of wheels " begunheaded by McLean. His toll road The original advertisements boasted, was to be the only one built into the "36 hours from San Francisco to Ya valley from the north side for a Semite. avoiding any horseback period of 10 years. riding."' Before the actual construction was Just one month later, on July 17 begun in 1870, a survey party dis1874, the Big Oak Flat Road was

thrown open to horse-drawn vehicles, despite the commissioners ' decision that one road entering from the north was sufficient. Blocked by the park's edict, the Big Oak Flat and Yosemite Turnpike Company had the decision reversed by the State legislature and hurriedly completed the last 3-mile section between Gentry and the valley floor. Both roads suffered in consequence of a second route dividing revenues, but the claims of the irate Coulterville Company were disallowed. Although there was not a large enough demand to make competition healthy for either company, both remained in operation. The Coulterville Road had a slight edge in that it was able to remain open from April to November because of the warmer southern exposure, while the Big Oak Flat Road was unable to begin its season until May 15 or Photo by J. T. soyee,, later, depending on the weather. One of the first automobiles in Yosemite ValAvailable figures, through 1899, ley, a Stanley Steamer driven by A. E. and show the Coulterville Road collectF. H. Holmes in July 1900. ing tolls of barely $200 more a year Locomobile and a Stanley Steamer than its competitor. had cruised around the valley as Until some time after 1913 stageearly as 1900, park regulations did coaches rolled over the Coulterville not permit automobiles until 1913. Road, billowing dust as hoofs and During that first season 127 cars wheels cut into the finely packed ground their way up the Coulterville roadbed. Stage passengers, intent on grades and down the final, steep seeing the widely publicized glories mountainside. Park regulations sancof Yosemite, mopped their brows tioned speeds of "10 miles per hour swallowed the dust, and looked for- on rolling mountain country, " per- ward to the night's stop. By 1907 the mitting a daring 12 miles per hour Yosemite Valley Railroad menaced on the valley floor. The following the prosperity of the road, when it year, 1914, cars were allowed on the extended its lines as far as El Portal. Big Oak Flat Road as well as on the From that time on, collected tolls Coulterville route. The day of the show that both the Big Oak Flat stagecoach was all but over. What Road and the Coulterville Road was considered comfort superseded fought losing battles against the romance and adventure, only to find progress of modern transportation. new irritants in boiling radiators and In 1913 the Coulterville Road kindred automotive ills. pioneered as the first road into the Although automobiles brought 23-year-old national park to admit more tolls, a new problem conautomobile traffic. Although a single fronted the Coulterville and Yo-

semite Turnpike Company. The National Park Service, created by Congress in 1916, wanted to abolish tolls, and subsequently did so, on the various privately constructed, owned, and maintained toll roads. The company controlling the Wawona Road turned it over to the public. The Government rewarded their precedent-setting act by maintaining the road during a period of years in which the company retained exclusive rights to the route. But the owners of the Coulterville Road refused to accept such a plan of public ownership. Inevitably their stand marked the end of the road as one of the main arteries of travel, for that part of the road within the park boundaries was no longer maintained as in previous years. Before long the roadbed evidenced marks of erosion and desertion, and the Big Oak Flat Road and newer routes absorbed its normal amount of traffic. For all practical purposes the Coulterville Road was through. But was it? As a highway, yes; as a through road, yes; but the Coulterville Road still snakes up the north side of the Merced Canyon. In 1951 it is still open to the public, although few people know either its history or its whereabouts, and parts of it are in very poor condition. An interested visitor with an eye for the past finds it a worthwhile if difficult experience to follow the old road by car or by foot. Before making the trip, an inquiry should be made at Government Center as to the condition of the road. For a while a voluntary control was in effect whereby cars went up on even hours and down on odd hours. There is so very little traffic on this stretch now that the practice has been discontinued. To reach the park terminus of the old Coulterville Road, one follows the All-Year Highway down the Merced Canyon to a point about 8 miles from Government Center. The Coulterville Road junction is just west of Cascade Falls. The 1.7-mile drive up the lower portion of the old road is easily accomplished by an experienced driver. This portion is in fairly good repair, surfaced with worn asphalt. Although the route continues past Big Meadow as a fire road, it soon deteriorates and the way to the Merced Grove is almost impassable. The return trip switchbacks down through ponderosa and Jeffrey pines, past an area burned over in 1941, then straightens out. From there on the descent is narrow, steep, and abrupt. Clumps of manzanita border the canyon edge, and rock-cuts lean over the road. Photo by A6rle (Wow Downgrade on the old Coulterville Road

In the old days stagecoaches Suddenly the All-Year Highway drawn by tired, sweating teams, may be seen at the bottom of the thundered down this stretch, while descent. The Coulterville Road uneasy passengers noted that they swings through huge, flanking bouldrode right on the edge of the cliff. ers, and flattens out to join it. The Now, car occupants ignore the drop junction is not easily seen from the to comment on the view of the brawl- busy, two-lane highway because of ing Merced River far below and the the hulking rocks and angle of ap- enormous granite slabs directly preach. Cottonwoods, ponderosa across the canyon. In the time of pines, willows, and fine specimens cussing drivers, the road had a of the California nutmeg border the width of from 8 to 20 feet, mostly 8, river. with frequent turnouts to allow for Glancing back, the Coulterville passing. Now, drivers proceed at Road, shadowed by its granite their own risk, hugging the bank if guardians, seems dwarfed and in- they need to pass. Although the road significant; yet its existence is a tan- is so narrow as to be almost one- gible tribute and link to the men who way, few cars travel it and careful made the stagecoach days a reality drivers can pass if they meet an in the ever-evolving miracle of opposing car. transportation.

1951-YOSEMITE CENTENNIAL-1951 NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS

A call is made for donations to the Yosemite Natural History Association of any unwanted copies of 1951 issues of Yosemite Nature Notes. These are needed to replenish our reserve stocks so that we may be in a position to fill occasional requests for back issues. Address Business Manager, Box 545, Yosemite National Park, California. -Ed.

DIGEST OF THE PURPOSES OF THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION

Yosemite National Park, California INCORPORATED for the purpose of cooperating with the National Park Service by assisting the Naturalist Department of Yosemite National Park in the development of a broad public understanding of the geology, plant and animal life, history, Indians and related interests in Yosemite National Park and nearby regions. It aids in the development of the Yosemite Museum and library, fosters scientific investigations along lines of greatest popular interest, offers books on natural history applicable to this area for sale to the public, and cooperates in the publication of

$1.00 per year Subscription includes all regular and special numbers. Revenue derived from the activities of the Yosemite Natural History Association is devoted entirely to furthering the progress of research and interpretation of significant interests in Yosemite National Park.

CROWN PRINTING & LITHOGRAPHING CO

Outline index chart accompanying photo on front cover. 1. Fireplace Creek 13. Echo Peaks 25. Banner Peak, 12,957 ft. 2. Ribbon Creek 14. Matthes Crest 26. Mt. Starr King, 9,081 ft. 3. El Capitan, 7,564 ft. 15. Mt. Gibbs, 12,700 ft. 27. Merced Lake 4. Eagle Peak, 7,773 ft. 16. Clouds Rest, 9,929 ft. 28. Little Yosemite Valley 5. Royal Arches 17. Kelp Crest 29. Sentinel Dome, 8,117 ft. 6. Washington Column 18. Vogelsang Peak 30. Sentinel Rock 7. North Dome, 7,531 ft. 19. Half Dome, 8,852 ft. 31. Taft Point, 7,503 ft. 8. Mt. Watkins, 8,235 ft. 20. Simmons Peak, 12,504 ft. 32. Cathedral Rocks 9. Tuolumne Meadows 21. Mt. Maclure, 13,000+ ft. 33. Bridalveil Fall 10. Tenaya Peak, 10,700 ft. 22. Mt. Florence, 12,507 ft. 34. Stanford Point, 6,659 ft. 11. Tioga Pass, 9,941 ft. 23. Mt. Lyell, 13,095 ft. 35. Merced River, 3,950 ft. 12. Mt. Dana, 13,055 ft. 24. Rodgers Peak, 12,056 ft. 36. Tunnel View, 4,410 ft. 37. Lateral moraines left by the Yosemite Glacier during the ice age