1951

YOSEMITE

Nature Notes

NO. 8

Left to right—Bottom row : McLellan, Wright, Mees, Critchlow, Ricketts, Weston. Middle row: Torrey, Belisle, Gilbert, Larson, Swick. Top row: Becker, Beall, Meyer, Assistant Director Waldo. Barraclough, Gale.

ROSTER OF THE 1951 YOSEMITE FIELD SCHOOL

Mary E. Barraclough, Smith College, Northampton, Massachusetts--Teacher Jacqueline T. Beall, 47 West Hendricks St., Shelbyville, Indiana—Student Edna E. Becker, 401 Furman St., Schenectady, New York—Teacher Anne M. Belisle, 14563 Sussex Ave., Detroit, Michigan—Teacher B. Vaughn Critchlow, 4410 West Avenue 42, Los Angeles, California—Student Martha G. Gale, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin—Student Margaret L. Gilbert, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin—Student Ann M. Larson, 2631A College Ave., Berkeley, California—Biochemist Peter M. McLellan, 2206 Crescent Drive, Seattle, Washington—Student John Mees, Box 29, McFarland, California—Teacher Ronald W. Meyer, 4204 Westway, Toledo, Ohio--Student John T. Ricketts, 629 East Elmwood Ave., Burbank, California—Student Genevieve M. Swick, P. O. Box 13, Eureka, Nevada -Teacher Richard H. Tormey, 1317 West 62nd St., Los Angeles, California--Teacher Henry G. Weston, Jr., 1006 Chatterton, Grinnell, Iowa—Teacher Joseph E. Wright, 1315 Tenth Ave., Fargo, North Dakota—Teacher-Principal Editors Note: This issue of Yosemite Nature Notes has been prepared by the 1951 class of the Yosemite Field School. Cover Photo: Aerial view of Tenaya Lake-Tuolumne Meadows area, Yosemite National Park. Made and donated to Yosemite Museum by Mr. Clarence Sleek of Apies, California. See back cover for outline index chart.

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF

THE Yosemite NATURALIST Division AND

THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

C. P. Russell, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist H. C. Parker, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Bryan, Junior Park Naturalist

VOL. XXX AUGUST, 1951 NO. 8 A TRIP TO MONO LAKE AND THE MONO CRATERS

By Mary Edith Barraclough, Field School, 1951 From the top of Mount Dana, Mono mountains, exchanging acorns for Lake and the Mono Craters and insect larvae from Mono Lake and a treasure never-to-be-forgotten. The obsidian from the Mono Craters. I tura. Climbing up the northwest had heard too that the lake has no slope of the mountain from Tioga outlet, that it is extremely salty, that Pass, we came out at last upon the it supports practically no plant and ridge leading to the summit. There animal life, and that swimming in its we had our first breathtaking view waters is an educational experience. of the Dana Glacier and Plateau, the Two weeks later we had an opdesert country of the Mono Basin, portunity to learn more of the Mono and in the center of the picture the country, in many ways a close round outline of Mono Lake. Its neighbor of Yosemite National Park. bright blue, bluer than the sky, conWhile the Field School was in the Contrasted sharply with the dull brown high country, a naturalist-conducted of the surrounding desert and with auto caravan left Tuolumne Meadthe two islands ornamenting its sue ows to spend a day exploring Mono face, one black and the other alLake and the craters. On this trip most white. To the south of the lake we were able to swim in the lake, rose the picturesque chain of Mono eat lunch near its shore, and ob- Craters, grayish-black in color, and serve closely the life that inhabits it. each one a perfect textbook illustraWe were also able to climb on one tion of an extinct volcano. Around of the craters, collect pumice and and beyond the lake and craters obsidian from its rim, and learn a stretched the flat desert set off by great deal about the geologic his- rugged mountain ranges, the Sierra tory of the Mono Basin and the in the foreground, the White MounSierra Nevada. twins as a backdrop. Driving down Leevining Canyon During our stay in Yosemite my from Tioga Pass, we had our first curiosity had been aroused about this lessons in the geology of the area. region to the east of the park. I had Scratched and polished rocks, and learned that its geology is closely moraines left by melting ice told us tied up with the geology of the of the glaciers that filled these deep Sierra Nevada. I knew that the Yocanyons on the east slope of the Semite Indians had carried on trade Sierra during the ice age. We saw with the Mono Indians east of the beds of dark metamorphic rocks

which had originated as sediments west shore. Here cold fresh-water on the floor of an ancient ocean. In springs bubble from the earth only places along the road we could see a short distance from the briny lake, light-colored fingers of rock reaching a dense thicket of willows gives up into the dark metamorphics welcome shade. At the source of from the underlying masses of each of these springs are peculiar granite, telling us of the hot liquid rock formations, domes of porous rock, or magma, which intruded travertine rising 20 or more feet into from below, changing the sediments, the air. These travertine domes are penetrating up in many places, a form of limestone deposited by the and cooling slowly beneath them to springs that once emerged beneath form the granites of the Sierra Nevada. the surface of the lake. Similar crags vada. Evidence that the old metamorphic rocks in the lake rising above its surface had been tilted, near the shore indicated the location broken, and eroded gave us some of other, submerged springs. idea of what happened when the These deposits are one of the evi- crest of the Sierra was pushed up to dences that at one time Mono Lake its present elevations. was much larger than it is today. Terraced shorelines and lake sediments. Later, looking back at the environments around the basin have made tarns from the shore of Mono Lake, it possible for geologists to determine we were impressed by the abrupt mine the extent of the ancient lake eastern face of the Sierra and the which existed during the glacial age. flat basin extending to the eastward we know that the larger and lighter-colored of the two islands, Paoha, which is some five or six thousand feet below the mountain crests. How was also at one time under water, as did it happen that way? We were its whitish color is caused by sediments told that this was caused by a down of clay and diatoms deposited faulting of the basin area; that a when it was submerged. The darker great crack, or fault, occurred in the island, Negit, is composed of volcanic earth's crust along the eastern edge canic rock, and must have been of the range, where the mountains formed since the level of the lake pushed up and the basin sank down. was lowered.] As the eye followed north and south Swimming in Mono Lake was not along the range one could imagine exactly a pleasant experience but it the upheavals that must have taken was an interesting one. Though not place to raise those mountain summits dense and buoyant as Great Salt up to elevations of 13 and 14 thou- Lake, Mono Lake is easy to swim in sand feet, and one could almost see because of its salt concentration. The the fault line where the basin area water is intensely alkaline, so alkasank down, leaving the steep eastern line that it looks greasy and is escarpment of the Sierra Nevada. slippery between the fingers. It Mono Lake and its shores looked tastes bitter and soapy as well as more barren than ever as we apsalty. In the oceans and in Great proached it. We ate our lunch by Salt Lake, common table salt preMorro Vista springs on the northdominates over all other minerals, Russell, Israel C., The Quaternary History of Mono Valley, California," U.S. Geological Survey, Washington, D.C., 1889. Much of the information in the present article was obtained from Russell's very complete study of the quaternary and post-quaternary geology of the Mono Valley.

Mono Lake from summit of Mount Crow but in Mono Lake the alkaline salts Ka-cha-vee flies (Ephedra nevadensis), the and carbonates are equally abundant larvae of which were relished by the dant and obscure the salty properties. Mono and Yosemite Indians for food. ties. The alkalinity of the lake is due Along the edge of the water were to the fact that it has no outlet, and windrows of the fly pupae washed as the salts which are brought into up on the shore. Wading into the the lake by springs and streams do water we found rocks on the bottom not evaporate and have no means with the larval cases of the flies of escape they become more firmly attached. The Indians collected this insect food in late summer— reputed to be good for the constitution, but we preferred to wash off the white salt deposit left on our skin pupae onto the shore. These pupae in the cold, fresh spring water were dried and the outer cases removed by rubbing and winnowing. The inner meats were stored and eaten as a delicacy and are said to have had a flavor resembling nut It would seem impossible for living things to exist in such briny water, but we found the lake teeming with a large quantity of life though not a great variety. The only visible plant life was numerous blobs of green algae scattered over the lake bottom. As we approached the water countless millions of little flies swarmed up from the sand in front of us. These are the famous Ka-cha-vee flies, and meats and shrimp. There are no fish or molluscs living in the lake, but we found myriads of little shrimp-like crustaceans in the waters near the shore. On the surface of the lake and along the shore were large numbers of shore and water birds which had

apparently come to feast on the crustaceans and insect larvae. The greatest number of these seemed to be Wilson phalaropes (Streptoprocne tricolor). We watched these birds from the highway for some time and were much amused by their antics, for they have the entertaining habit of spinning around on the water like tops while searching for food. Farther out on the lake were larger birds, probably gulls, grebes, and ducks. This, I thought, would be a wonderful place to spend a day with a pair of binoculars and a good bird book. An afternoon trip to the northern-most, smallest, and newest of the Mono Craters completed our day. The Mono Craters were thrown up by volcanos which came into existence after the ice age, just a little while ago geologically speaking, and are an indication of recent activity along the Sierra Nevada fault line. This smallest crater is really two craters - a smaller, newer one within the rim of an older and broader one. It takes only a few minutes to walk up to the rim of the outer cone, or better yet, to the rim of the inner cone, and it is well worth the trouble. Here we found pumice, the gas-filled froth of a volcanic eruption. What fun to lightly hoist above one's head a rock that looks as though it should weigh a hundred pounds! And what fun to look down into the mouth of the old volcano and see where the hot liquid rock cooled before it had a chance to flatten out or crystallize into its mineral constituents. Most interesting were the great lumps of obsidian, or volcanic glass, now black and hard but with the lines of flow and bubbles caused by escaping steam still visible. Everyone returned to the cars loaded with cherished specimens of pumice and obsidian. The best pieces of obsidian, those with the fewest flow lines and gas bubbles, were designated to go to Chief Lee-mee in by volcanos which came into exist- Yosemite Valley to be used in dem- ence after the ice age, just a little onstrating the making of obsidian while ago geologically speaking, arrowheads by the Yosemite Indians. and are an indication of recent In another hour we were back in activity along the Sierra Nevada the high Sierra among the granite fault line. This smallest crater is peaks and our mountain streams really two craters—a smaller, new- and lakes. We were not sorry to er one within the rim of an older leave the alkaline lake, the barren and broader one. It takes only a few desert, and craters behind, but a day minutes to walk up to the rim of of exploring there had increased our the outer cone, or better yet, to the understanding of the natural and rim of the inner cone, and it is well human history of the Yosemite worth the trouble. Here we found region and deepened our enjoyment pumice, the gas-filled froth of a of Yosemite National Park.

YOSEMITE TROUT INVESTIGATIONS

By Jack Ricketts, Field School, 1951 If you are one of the many men has as its emphasis the waters of and women who enjoy the fine art of the Merced River in Yosemite Valley fishing as a part of your vacation, and the lakes and streams near the you will be interested in the work High Sierra camps. The project has now being carried on in Yosemite gotten underway through the genNational Park to improve your sport. generous donation of Mrs. Mary Curry This work, a long-term project, Tresidder, whose thoughtful gift has will eventually cover all waters of made it possible for Park Ranger the park; however, this year's part O. L. Wallis to conduct the work on a the Yosemite trout investigations on a full-time basis for a period of 8

months. I would like to thank Ranger Wallis for his very kind assistance and cooperation in the gathering together of the data for this article. Also aiding in the project is Glenn Gallison, wildlife ranger, who is continuing his observations and investigations as part of the program. His card file on lakes and streams is serving as basis for the present studies. The objective of the Yosemite trout investigations is to gather information on the biological and physical features of the streams and lakes, as well as to make a study of trout conditions. This material will eventually aid in the formulation of a basic stocking and trout management plan for each stream and lake within Yosemite National Park. The information is being gathered in three major ways : (1) Lake and stream surveys conducted by the park personnel; (2) Yosemite Volunteer Creel Census forms distributed to fishermen by means of boxes placed at strategic places around the park; and (3) use of the Fishing Questionnaire and Data Cards by rangers and High Sierra camp operators in recording their contacts with anglers. The survey of waters by park personnel is being made in order to determine the species of trout present, their size ranges, physical condition, abundance, the degree of fishing pressure (or the number of anglers fishing any certain water), and the amount of natural reproduction. Reproduction information is perhaps the backbone of the plan, for in some lakes and many streams natural reproduction can carry the load without additional trout-stocking assistance. In other waters, little Gallison, wildlife ranger, who is such places, trout must be planted. continuing his observations and in- In still other lakes and streams, nat- vestigations as part of the program. ural reproduction will have to be His card file on lakes and streams is supplemented by stocking because serving as basis for the present the heavy fishing pressure makes studies. natural reproduction insufficient. The objective of the Yosemite This information, therefore, pro- trout investigations is to gather in- vides knowledge of what species of formation on the biological and trout to plant, for some types fare physical features of the streams and better than others in certain waters. lakes, as well as to make a study It also helps in determining the fre- of trout conditions. This material quency of stocking, for naturally will eventually aid in the formula- those waters which are easily acces- tion of a basic stocking and trout sible to trails, roads, and camps will management plan for each stream be fished more than others. and lake within Yosemite National Also included in the survey is the Park. mapping of each lake and calcula- The information is being gathered tion of its area. The waters are being in three major ways : (1) Lake and examined in order to find if suitable stream surveys conducted by the spawning areas are available, to park personnel; (2) Yosemite Volun- learn what foods are present (some- teer Creel Census forms distributed times by stomach examination), to to fishermen by means of boxes study the presence of aquatic plants, placed at strategic places around and to investigate the fish species the park; and (3) use of the Fishing now present, their size groups and Questionnaire and Data Cards by abundance. rangers and High Sierra camp operThe current information is being ators in recording their contacts with recorded in the field on special suranglers. vey forms supplied by the California The survey of waters by park perdivision of Fish and Game. This sonnel is being made in order to data, along with past research and determine the species of trout present, their size ranges, physical condition, abundance, the degree of fishing pressure (or the number of anglers fishing any certain water), and the amount of natural reproduction. Reproduction information is perhaps the backbone of the plan, for in some lakes and many streams natural reproduction can carry the load without additional trout-stocking assistance. In other waters, little or no natural reproduction takes place because of poor living conditions, and, if fishing is to be had in such places, trout must be planted. In still other lakes and streams, natural reproduction will have to be supplemented by stocking because the heavy fishing pressure makes natural reproduction insufficient. This information, therefore, provides knowledge of what species of trout to plant, for some types fare better than others in certain waters. It also helps in determining the frequency of stocking, for naturally those waters which are easily accessible to trails, roads, and camps will be fished more than others. Also included in the survey is the mapping of each lake and calculation of its area. The waters are being examined in order to find if suitable spawning areas are available, to learn what foods are present (sometimes by stomach examination), to study the presence of aquatic plants, and to investigate the fish species now present, their size groups and abundance. The current information is being recorded in the field on special survey forms supplied by the California division of Fish and Game. This data, along with past research and stocking records, will make up a basic stocking policy sheet for each body of water. You might say this whole plan is an attempt on the part of the fisherman, with the help of the park personnel, to improve upon his sport. In so doing he is assuring himself a goodly supply of fish in the years to come.

TEA FOR TWO

By Genevieve Swick. Field School. 1951 How about joining me in a cup of ers." It occurs along the Sierra Netea? If you don't mind a bit of vada from about 5,000 to 10,000 variety, we will indulge ourselves feet elevation. One very easy way and use the "makings" that are to identify it is to bruise a leaf; if it available in or near Yosemite Nais Labrador tea there will be an tional Park. While on recent nature odor somewhat resembling that of hikes with the Field School, Carl turpentine. The last statement may Sharsmith, the naturalist leading us, cause you to wonder what kind of mentioned many plants and shrubs a drink could be made from the that could be used in living off the plant. However, if you dry the land. Among these were California leaves and then drop them into boillaurel or bay, creek dogwood for a ing water and steep for several minrather heady smoke, Labrador tea, utes, you get an amber liquid and stick or desert tea. Being curious, tasting like a cup of orange-pekoe I tried both of the types of tea. I with a little too much lemon. Add a boiled, I drank, I liked. Because hit of sugar and you have a cup of of that, I want to share my experi- delicious tea. ence with you. If you don 't care for that cup of A little description of these shrubs tea, possibly the next type will suit might prove that you are already familiar with them even though you your pala te. When driving through might not have enjoyed the beverthe foothills of Leevining Canyon, ages. Labrador tea or trapper's tea you might notice an erect shrub with (*Ledum glandulosum* Nutt.) is described many branches and seemingly no by McMinn as "a rather erect rigid leaves. Upon closer inspection, you shrub, 2 to 5 feet high, leaves... will note that the branches appear evergreen, crowded near the ends to be similar to the scouring rushes of the branches,... flowers white, or horsetails, with the jointed numerous, crowded in terminal clust- branches having leaf-scales at the nodes; either all flowers and leaves.

nodes. This interesting plant is actually one of many. It is more closely allied to the cone-bearing trees or gymnosperms than to the other members of the plant kingdom. It's one of a primitive group known as the Ephedra or Gnetum family. The dried-out appearance of the erect, pale yellowish-green branches sticking up from the rocky soil is probably responsible for the names given to this plant—stick tea or desert tea are only the beginning. Despite the appearance of the shrub, when the branch tips are picked and dried, then steeped for several minutes in boiling water (the time is governed by the strength of flavor you desire), the resulting beverage has a deep orange color and a pleasantly pungent, aromatic flavor. Add a bit of lemon or sugar or both to suit your taste, relax, and sip a good drink.

THE SCENIC SKY

By Ronald W. Meyer, Field School, 1951 Whether engaged in a strenuous equal distance from it was a continuation of the arc. The diameter climb or a leisurely stroll amidst Yosemite's magnificence, we all beof the circle occupied over onecome aware of the beauty of the tenth of the sky area between the firmament. However, the part the extremes of the horizon. The com- sky plays in enhancing the beauty prising colors continually changed of the area is not fully realized and in brilliance as the innards of the appreciated by many. Oftentimes cloud shuffled about, varying the the sky can present as spectacular density. The red of the halo was a show in the course of a few monearest the sun and it graded subtly merits as that which the earth, aided into a yellow and this into a green, by the compounding of the artistry then a blue, lastly a lavender. of the ages, can produce. To produce sky scenery of this We of the 1951 Field School were sort the sun needs the cooperation privileged to witness such a display of a special cloud type. The high, on the day we climbed Mount Lyell. feathery cirrus clouds are the most That day the scenic sky competed most commonly utilized. They drift favorably with the brilliant glacial at elevations of 6 or 7 miles above the snows and awesome vistas for the earth's surface where all their moistattention of our cameras and our ure is necessarily in the form of tiny eyes. The day was typically high snow or ice crystals. These ice Sierran. The intense sun shone crystals are flat and six-sided and through the clear, cool air all about act as so many minute prisms, so us and the sky was flecked with that when the white light from the high, wispy cirrus clouds. As the sun passes through them it emerges day progressed the thin clouds in its component parts. Light from coalesced into one large feathery the sun is composed of many colors cloud. As good luck would have it, which normally aren't separately we were all reclining in a high visible, but when it is passed mountain meadow when the cloud through transparent objects of the chose to drift twixt us and the sun. proper shape the various colors bend Immediately one edge of it burst differentially and emerge in the into a huge arc of a rainbow-like characteristic rainbow alignment. halo. Opposite the sun and an The red is bent least and the laven-

der most, which explains the of the countless dust particles of the sequence about the sun. It has been atmosphere. experimentally determined that ice crystal clouds generally bend the light through an angle of 22 degrees, making the diameter of the colorful halo nearly one-eighth the span of the heavens. All good things must come to an end. After about 10 minutes the cloud vaporously began to fragment and leave disappointed little curds hanging before the sun. The white light that is poured through the openings in the clouds, forming huge radiating shafts along which the sun's rays danced among the countless dust particles of the atmosphere. Resignedly we lifted ourselves from the soft green grass of the light through an angle of 22 degrees, alpine meadow and wended our making the diameter of the colorful way campwards. Later that evening halo nearly one-eighth the span of as we lounged about the fire eating, the heavens. the sunken sun bathed the curled sky overhead and the jagged crest All good things must come to an end. After about 10 minutes the cloud vaporously began to fragment and leave disappointed little curds hanging before the sun. The white light that is poured through the openings in the clouds, forming huge radiating shafts along which the sun's rays danced among the countless dust particles of the atmosphere. Resignedly we lifted ourselves from the soft green grass of the alpine meadow and wended our way campwards. Later that evening as we lounged about the fire eating, the sunken sun bathed the curled sky overhead and the jagged crest all about us in a soft, red glow. It is almost as if the light were reluctant to leave us as a friendly farewell its rays bend their way along the earth's convexity to linger for a few moments longer. As the alpenglow slowly faded away we couldn't help but interpret it as a farewell gesture from the scenic sky.

A FEW PUFFS FROM POHONO (TRAIL OF THE PUFFING WIND)

By Joseph E. Wright, Field School, 1951 From the sloping "Glacier" campground to the distant valley floor We enjoyed Pohono's windings fora dozen miles or more. There were ups and downs and vistas; every hour brought a change In the trees and shrubs and smaller plants which are limited in range. In prostrate rhododendron and a red fir's soaring tip We had proof of being far above the valley's oak-lined strip. We could never cease to marvel at the mats of flowers gay Which brightened every open place along the forest way. The starwort's forked white petals, and lousewort's fern-like green, Along with white-veined shinleaf still decorate the scene. As yet I feel the trail miles flow, though many days have passed; For memories of Pohono Trail will surely always last.

1951 - YOSEMITE CENTENNIAL - 1951

DIGEST OF THE PURPOSES OF THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION

Yosemite National Park, California INCORPORATED for the purpose of cooperating with the National Park Service by assisting the Naturalist Department of Yosemite National Park in the development of a broad public understanding of the geology, plant and animal life, history, Indians and related interests in Yosemite National Park and nearby regions. It aids in the development of the Yosemite Museum and library, fosters scientific investigations along lines of greatest popular interest, offers books on natural history applicable to this area for sale to the public, and cooperates in the publication of

$1.00 per year Subscription includes all regular and special numbers. Revenue derived from the activities of the Yosemite Natural History Association is devoted entirely to furthering the progress of research and interpretation of significant interests in Yosemite National Park.

Outline index chart accompanying photo on front cover. 1. Tenaya Lake, 8,141 ft. 2. Mt. Williams 3. Tioga Road 4. Tuolumne River 5. Fairview Dome, 9,737 ft. 6. Tuolumne Meadows, 8,600 ft. 7. Lembert Dome 8. Dana Meadows 9. Mt. Dana, 13,050 ft. 10. Tioga Pass, 9,941 ft. 11. Mono Lake, 6,419 ft. 12. Gaylor Lakes 13. Dog Lake, 9,240 ft. 14. Mt. Gibbs 15. Mt. Conness, 12,556 ft. 16. Dunderberg Peak, 12,374 ft. 17. Polly Dome 18. Mildred Lake 19. Cathedral Lake 20. Cathedral Peak, 10,933 ft. 21. Budd Lake 22. Unicorn Peak, 10,849 ft. 23. Echo Peaks 24. Cockscomb 25. Mt. Warren, 12,327 ft. 26. Soda Springs 27. Tenaya Dome