December 1945

Vol. XXIV December, 1945 No. 12

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE NATURALIST DEPARTMENT AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION

F. A. Kittredge, Superintendent C. F. Brockman, Park Naturalist M. V. Walker, Associate Park Naturalist

VOL. XXIV DECEMBER, 1945 NO. 12 GIFTS FROM YOSEMITE

By Elizabeth H. Godfrey, NPS Staff My gifts to you are the forest trees That were last night trimmed with snow, And all my domes and cliffs and spires, In your figurative stocking go. A Gray Squirrel with a bushy tail, The saucy Blue-fronted Jay; The Kinglets and the Chickadees That sing on Christmas Day. Yosemite Falls in frosty garb, The does in the meadows with fawns; A Water Ouzel that dips and dives As the river stretches and yawns. To these I add the peace of my deep Eternal, that never departs; My beauty and freshness of out-of-doors To treasure up in your hearts

COVER ILLUSTRATION

Yosemite Oaks in Winter (Photo by Ansel Adams)

BRIEF HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE CHAPEL

By Rev. Alfred Glass In a quiet corner of the Old Village? The answer to that question lage, virtually hidden by trees, seems to be lost in the passage stands a little New England style years but we have several clues meeting house called the "Old Vilto those who might have shared lage Chapel." This simple building, the beginnings of the enterprise. resting harmoniously in its setting of The Reverend M. C. Briggs, meadow, trees, and gray granite Methodist minister of Alameda walls, today is the last man-made California, a friend of Galen Clark guardian of the Valley's early his and J. M. Hutchings, was early col tory and the oldest relic still standnected with the chapel's history. Mr ing of those stirring days. With the Briggs was appointed to the Board exception of the Mountain House at of Commissioners of the Yosemite Glacier Point, built but one year pre Grant in 1880 by Governor George viously (1878), it is the oldest building C. Perkins. He served as Secretary ing in Yosemite National Park. and Treasurer of the Board and to In the summer of 1879, in a little doubtedly had a part in the appoint cluster of buildings grouped about ment of J. M. Hutchings as Guardian the area which today is marked by of the area in that same year. We the beginning of the Four-Mile Trail may surmise that Mr. Briggs' know to Glacier Point, the sound of hamledge of the Valley and his acquaintance mer and saw was the constant accompaniment with Galen Clark and Hutchings companiment to the normal activities implies that he had visited th ties of the Valley. In the open area region before 1880. As a fervent between Black's Hotel and Leidig's Methodist preacher we may assume place, a building was being erected; that the absence of a place of worship the first structure dedicated to the ship in this magnificent setting will worship of God in Yosemite Valley its colony of settlers and hundreds which in itself is a natural outdoor of visitors would arouse a determi cathedral speaking of the beauty nation on his part to forward the and glory of God's handiwork. The building of a church. work went on throughout the summer Mrs. George Fiske, wife of the pioneer mer, until by late September, the pioneer photographer of Yosemite, interior was finished and the new evidently took an early interest in chapel stood ready to face the rigors the chapel. Her husband's stud of the winter season. Within a year was diagonally across the road or two the building was painted and from the church. In a statement a ceiling put in. made some years ago she said: " Who originally suggested the (chapel) was erected in 1879, building of the church in Yosemite a cost of $2,343, but not completed

The sum of $1,511.70 was collected ence. She became acquainted with by subscription and the Sabbath the leaders, especially with Dr. Schools, leaving a debt of $831.30, George Cole Stebbins, who wrote the last of which was paid Septemhymns and directed music for the ber 25, 1882. Since then the money famous evangelists, and his sister, collected has been used for the current Mrs. Ella S. Miller. Because of this rent expenses of the chapel and friendship, Dr. Stebbins and his sister having it ceiled and painted. " This ter visited the Valley that same year statement indicates that Mrs. Fiske as guests of Florence. We have no took an active interest in the chapel doubt that one of the points of interfrom the beginning and it is possible est visited would be the chapel, now that she may have originated the just one year old. Florence's interest idea of a place of worship in the in the chapel as a result of her quick Valley. ened religious life, found expression The name of Florence Hutchings, in her assumption of the duties of first white child born in the Valley, janitor and caretaker of the little occurs early in this story. This outchurch. She continued this loving standing young woman, daughter of service until her untimely death in J. M. Hutchings, died at the early September 1881. The first organ in age of 18, only two years after the the little chapel was given by Miss building of the chapel. Although Mary Porter of Philadelphia in member years were few, she left the memory of Florence Hutchings. Miss Porindelible impact of a character marked ter had visited the Valley in 1878 by kindly courtesy, generosity, and and had enjoyed Miss Hutchings' unselfishness. The influence of her friendship. personality was so pronounced that Although the beginnings of the one of the mountain peaks of the idea of the chapel are shrouded in park was named "Mount Florence" silence, the facts of the construction in her honor. of the building are given by J. M. It was through Florence Hutchings Hutchings in his well-known book, that the influence of the internation- "In The Heart of The Sierras" (p.355). ally-famed revival team of Dwight The California Sunday School Asso L. Moody and Ira D. Sankey reached Association conducted a campaign to even into this isolated section of the raise money for the enterprise. Some Sierra. During the year 1880, these of this money came from the Sabfamed evangelists held meetings in bath School pupils of the day, who the First Congregational Church of donated many pennies to the cause. San Francisco. While visiting in the Most of the money, however, came city, Florence attended some of the from the voluntary contributions of meetings and was deeply affected leading members of the Association. in her religious life by the experi- "Charles Geddes, leading architect

of San Francisco, made and the first sound of the church-going bell sented the plans. E. Thomson of San ever heard in Yosemite." Francisco, erected the building at a Two of the men who worked on the cost of between three and four thouconstruction were Charley Post sand dollars." This account of Mr. Sacramento who acted as foreman Hutchings agrees substantially with and Al May who worked as a co that of Mrs. Fiske's. Mr. Hutchings penter. goes on to say that the chapel will The chapel stood on rising ground "seat an audience of about two hunon the south side of the South road dred and fifty." This evidently was facing north, with a beautiful view an optimistic estimate. At the present time, of Yosemite Falls. The outline of the sent time the chapel will hardly seat building site can still be discerned one hundred comfortably. The bell at the old location. for the tower was given by H. D. The first couple married in the Bacon of Oakland and, to quote Mr. chapel were Abby (probably a nick Hutchings, "when its first notes rung name for Abigail) Crippen, a step out upon the moon-silvered air, in daughter of Mrs. J. Barnard, wife c the evening of dedication, it was the an old-time settler and hotel-keeper

YOSEMITE CHAPEL IN WINTER

(Photo by Ansel Adams)

and Walter Childs, who in the summer occasions has come down through summer of 1880 ran a telephone line the years. The "argument from silence" indicates the fact that too Valley. The marriage took place on often the chapel stood empty and October 24, 1880. forsaken. The visit of former President UlyssesIn the passage of the years, the ses S. Grant to the Valley on October cold church, built in the midst of a tober 1, 1879, just at the time of the busy community, lost one by one its completion of the chapel, bears companion buildings, until with the mentioning because of a later incident moving on of community activity to dent connected with this famous other parts of the Valley, it stood American. In 1885, on the death of alone. Finally, it too left its original President Grant, a memorial service location, and in September or Ocwas held in the chapel and the ortober of 1901 was moved to its preganist for the day, playing the Florsent location near the community ence Hutchings memorial organ, known as the Old Village. John S. was Sir Arthur Sullivan, famed composer Stevens, son of Octobine Stevens, and collaborator with Sir Wilsupervised the removal. Liam Gilbert in the famous Gilbert With the coming of the twentieth and Sullivan light operas. Sir Arthur century, the old Chapel found new was visiting in the Valley at the time life and activity. In 1906 the Roman and was asked to assist in the serCatholic group met there throughout vice. the summer months and have conAt various times the chapel was tinued to use the building, with some used for many different types of interruptions, ever since. Some years meetings. Old-timers remember lantern slide lectures and magician later, the Northern California Sunperformances. For most of its early day School Association sent a minister into the Valley each summer to years, the chapel was used irregularly for religious services. There testant group, who met in the chapel. was no permanent minister in the However, the days of difficulty Valley, and services were held only for the old chapel were not over. upon the appearance of some willing Evil days fell upon it in the latter clergyman. It is probable that part of the 1920s. The Supervising many famous preachers spoke with Executive of the Yosemite National in its walls, but no record of such Park Church, organized to supervise * Since 1924, under the Yosemite Nation al Park Church, the following ministers have served as permanent pastors: Rev. A. J. Gunn (1924-1929) Rev. Ralph F. Doescher (1941-1944) Rev. James Asa White (1929-1940) Rev. Alfred Glass (1944- )

all religious activities in the Valley, through the years, that the Old in the 1928 annual report made the Chapel today is the center of more following statement: "Last winter activity than in all its long history the theatre which we had used for As the second oldest building in Yosemite three summers as a meeting place National Park, it is singled out for worship, burned down. This left out increasingly for pilgrimages by us with no place to hold our services those who visit this famed spot. Al except the Old Chapel. So early in who enter its doors feel the spirit of the season we held our services its years and its devotion. Through there. But the Old Chapel is very old, the years it seems to have captured dilapidated, too small, and not in a some of the timelessness of the desirable location for church sermountain peaks towering above it vices. in the winter it is very cold and it looks forward to the future and though there are two stoves, with the serenity of that which is these do not adequately heat the eternal. building; also, the stove pipes of the Perhaps no one has expressed the two stoves go through the windows spirit of the Old Chapel as well a but not always does the smoke go the Reverend James M. Malloch c through the stove pipe." Fresno in the following poem: In 1930, under the leadership of the Reverend James Asa White, ExLittle Chapel in The Valley ecutive Secretary of the Yosemite By James M. Malloch National Park Church, several hun Little Chapel in the Valley,

dreds of dollars were spent in repairs and improvements. Since that Mountain Chapel lifted high, time it has been used regularly by Little Chapel shrined in granite both the Protestant and Roman Catholic the high Sierra sky, olic groups, except during the sumTell us of the many secrets mer months. In September, 1945, the You have whispered to the pines, present Board of Trustees of the Park Solemn secrets men have told thee Church, voted to spend some two As they've told to other shrines. hundred dollars in repairs and imTell us of the prayers like incense provements. In addition, thanks to You have often seen arise, the United States National Park SerLike the cedar's incensed branches vice, to which the Park Church Floating in the mountain skies. ceded title to the building in 1927, the building has been kept in good Tell us life's eternal secret, repair and made more usable with Chapel of Yosemite Little Chapel of the Valley, various improvements. Hold us close to God and thee. It is a testimony to the foresight of its builders and to those who labored

NOTES ON THE SHARP-TAILED SNAKE

By M. V. Walker, Associate Park Naturalist The records of the Yosemite Museum indicate that the sharp-tailed snake It is evident that this particular defensive snake (Contia tenuis) is probably one adaption is either now effective of the rarest reptiles either observed against certain enemies, or else it or collected in the Yosemite region. may indicate the degenerate nature The herpetological collection contains of this particular species of snake. tains but a single specimen and the At any rate, this snake is no doubt records list only two others taken by partly responsible for the myth about Park Service personnel within the the snake with a "stinger" in the end area. of its tail. Because of the above facts more There is also some evidence that than usual interest was shown when the sharp pointed tail may be of still workers in the Wawona blister rust another use to this snake which is camp this past summer discovered apparently nocturnal and burrowing. two of these very rare and interestRecent observations tend to indicate ing reptiles. Unfortunately the larger that when this snake is held down specimen (approximately 15 inches in an attempt to keep it from moving, in length) escaped, but the smaller that it will thrust its tail down into snake (8 inches in length) was the soil and proceed to push itself brought to the Yosemite Museum on along, an adaptation which may be August 12 by D. R. Swormstedt and of some value in burrowing. Paul Jones. It was placed in a large jar and was kept alive for observation for over two months when it fiSPECIAL NUMBER IN JANUARY nally added to the alcoholic collection. The January 1946 number of Yosemite NATURE NOTES will be devoted The sharp-tailed snake is of esentirely to the subject " Reptiles and pecial interest because the tail termiAmphibians of Yosemite National notes very abruptly and the scales Park." This booklet, prepared by are modified into a rather sharp Associate Park Naturalist M. V. Walker, hence the common name. er, will contain approximately 40 Whenever the snake is picked up or pages and will be profusely illustrated handled it uses this sharp tail in a ted. defensive manner. It will repeatedly All regular subscribers to Yosemattempt to "stick" the handler, and ite NATURE NOTES will receive a copy although the specimens observed of this booklet. Extra copies will be were unable to puncture the skin, the placed on sale in the Yosemite Mularger specimen was able to produce seum at 25c each.

(C.F.B.)

the sensation of a sharp, quick pinprick.

PARK RANGER "BILLY" NELSON RETIRES

By Frank A. Kittredge, Superintendent Few if any National Park Service employees have had an opportunity to retire from active duty on two occasions. Thus November 30, the date of the second retirement of Park Ranger W. H. ("Billy" ) Nelson, was a rather unique date. "Billy" has been associated with this area in one way or another for almost the entire period of his life. Born at Merced Falls, California on July 21, 1873 he first came to Yosemite when but three years old in company with his parents, sister, and Mr. and Mrs. Ingalsbe — friends of the family. This was during the days when the Yosemite Grant (including Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove) was administered by the State, and but two years after the opening of the first road into the Valley. Later, in 1901, "Billy " returned to the Valley for a second time. In this instance he worked during the summer for Nelson Salter, who then operated the local store. His association with the National Park Service began on June 1, 1917. During that summer he served as a seasonal park ranger. The following year he received a year-round appointment as park ranger and continued in that capacity until his original retirement on July 1, 1936. Campers who frequented the Valley during the 20 's and early 30's will undoubtedly recall "Billy" and his white horse "Shiek." After the beginning of the recent war, when many park employees left to enter the armed forces, "Billy" was prevailed upon to return to his old duties. In consequence, he again entered on duty for the "duration" as a park ranger on May 18, 1943. "Billy" typifies the "old time ranger" who rendered such great service by assisting in the development of a sound foundation upon which the National Parks, as we understand them today, were built. He is one of the few remaining links between the past and the present in Yosemite National Park history. A host of friends, park visitors and all of his co-workers, will miss this genial gentleman of the outdoors, but the good work in which he had such a large part will live long in the appreciation of millions of Americans.

BIRTHDAY FOR NATURE NOTES

With this issue Yosemite Nature Notes completes its twenty first year as a monthly, printed publication.

Digitized by Yosemite Online Library Dan Anderson