February 1958

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOLUME XXXVII - NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1958

Snow in the Valley

—N. P. S.

Captain Boling and the Mariposa Battalion entering Yosemite Valley. —Henry Shlez

John C. Preston, Superintendent Robert F. Upton, Assoc. Park Naturalist R. W. Carpenter, Junior Park Naturalist in its 37th year of public service. The monthly publication of Yosemite's park naturalists and the Yosemite Natural History Association. D. H. Hubbard, Park Naturalist W. C. Bullard, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Dunmire, Park Naturalist Trainee

VOL. XXXVII FEBRUARY 1958 NO. 2 THE DISCOVERY OF YOSEMITE AND THE MARIPOSA INDIAN WAR, 1850-1851: THE DIARIES OF ROBERT ECCLESTON

By C. Gregory Crampton* The exact date of its discovery by the men of the Mariposa Battalion has long been one of the most elusive facts in Yosemite's history. Until recently it was not known that any of the 105 men of Companies B and C who served in the Yosemite expedition had kept a diary or had made any record of the campaign. Historians have had to rely on meager contemporary records and principally on the book by Lafayette H. Bunnell, The Discovery of Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851 which Led to that Event, and some of his periodical pieces on the same theme. Bunnell was a volunteer in the Mariposa Battalion and he was in the party that discovered Yosemite Valley, but he wrote of these events years after they happened and his memory played him tricks. He could not be sure of the actual date when the fifty-seven men under the command of Major James D. Savage entered the Valley to apprehend the Yosemite Indians. The short news accounts.

*University of Utah Press, 1957. Available from the Yosemite Natural History Association, $6.90 including tax and postage. of the Mariposa Indian War are silent on most details. In the absence of more complete evidence it has been concluded that the effective discovery occurred on March 25, 1851. The first chapter in Yosemite's history may now be revised. The first Robert Eccleston

day by day account of the cam- Savage's trading post on the Fresno paigns of the Mariposa Battalion River and won the first round in the from its formation on February 12, hostilities. In response Mariposa 1851 until it was mustered out the County Sheriff James Burney and following July 1, has come to light. James D. Savage organized volun- This is the diary of Robert Eccleston, teer forces and carried the action to private in Company C, who kept a the enemy at Battle Mountain and daily record of his experiences elsewhere. Convinced that a general throughout the course of the Mari- outbreak was at hand, Mariposa citiposa Indian War. The Eccleston zens and Adam Johnston, U. S. Inrecord provides us with the most re- dian Agent, petitioned the California liable source yet found for fixing the State government for help. Governor date of March 27, 1851 when Sav- John McDougal was sympathetic age's men first entered Yosemite and he ordered the formation of a Valley. volunteer force of 200 men to protect Besides setting the discovery date the Mariposa frontier, the cost of of Yosemite back by two days, Ec- which he expected would be borne cleston gives us an intimate history by the Federal Government. Ecclesof the Mariposa Battalion, particular- ton's diary contains many valuable ly of Company C, and of the Indian details of the election of officers and war out of which it grew. He was the formation of the Battalion and its mining at Aqua Fria when, in Decem- preliminary movements. ber 1850 the Indians, resentful at the Before the Battalion commenced gold miners thronging about in their campaigning a Federal Commission acorn and hunting grounds, attacked arrived to manage Indian affairs in Prospectors such as these joined the Mariposa Battalion. —Remington

Aqua Fria sent some men.

—N. P. S.

California and it headed for the not see the Valley, and he has noth- Southern Mines where a general war ing descriptive of it in his diary. between the Indians and the intrud- He does, though, supply the inforing whites seemed imminent. The mation which enables us to fix the Mariposa Battalion was ordered to discovery date with some confidence. wait while the Commission invited He says on March 27 that Savage the tribes of the Southern Mines to with fifty-seven men and an Indian come in and treat. When the hostile guide left the base camp and started Indians of the Mariposa county fail- for the "Yosemite Camp," and he ed to appear the volunteers were or- notices their return, empty-handed, on dered to bring them in by force. the 29th. Bunnell, in the discovery The campaign began on March 19, party, gives us much detail on the 1851. Company A ranged southward event; Eccleston fixes it more accuas far as Kings River but for the most rately in time. part operations were confined to the In April a second major expedi- Sierra Nevada between the Merced tion went to the upper reaches of the and San Joaquin rivers. The first ex- Fresno River, where some Big Trees pedition of companies B and C led were seen, to Crane Valley, and to them toward the middle canyon of the Chiquito and Kaiser forks region the Merced River and on March 27 on the San Joaquin River. In May, the advance party camped on the two expeditions were sent to the floor of Yosemite Valley, quite prob- High Sierra: Captain John Boling's ably the first white men to do so. As command returned to Yosemite and luck would have it, Robert Eccleston went as far as Tenaya Lake while remained at the base camp on the another party under Major Savage, South Fork of the Merced and did which included Eccleston, and about

which Bunnell has nothing to say, returned to the Upper San Joaquin and went on to the divide between the headwaters of the North Fork and those of the Merced before turning back. The High Sierra expeditions concluded the military action and the Mariposa Battalion was mustered out on July 1, 1851. Some Indians, chiefly the Yosemites, had been brought in and others had come in voluntarily. They made treaties with the Indian Commission and agreed to live in reservations extending along the base of the foothills. There they fell easy prey to the whites who moved into the Southern Mines in larger numbers once the war was over. James D. Savage, of whom Eccleston has left the best known contemporary description, returned to his life as Indian trader in charge of the San Joaquin reservation. Robert Eccleston joined his old mining associates now working along the San Joaquin River where he labored in the uncertain quest for gold until December, 1851, when his diary ends. He was on hand to see the beginnings of Fort Miller, the U. S. Army post activated in August 1851, to maintain peace in the Mariposa mines. Robert Eccleston was believed to have been the last survivor of the Mariposa Battalion and when he died in 1914 his diaries were inherited by his son, Charles Hudson Eccleston, now living in Albany, California who has presented them to the Bancroft Library at the University of California. The diaries have now been published in two volumes and both have been distributed to the Friends of the Bancroft Library. The first which dealt with Eccleston's trip to California, was edited by George P. Hammond and Edward H. Howes Dr. L. H. Bunnell and appeared in 1950 under the title, Overland to California on the Southwestern Trail, 1849 (Berkeley and Los Angeles, University of California Press). The second volume was published in December, 1957, The Mariposa Indian War, 1850-1851, Diaries of Robert Eccleston: The California Gold Rush, Yosemite, and the High Sierra (Salt Lake City, University of Utah Press). It has been my good fortune to edit the second volume which was made possible through the assistance of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Hudson Eccleston, and of many helpful persons in the Bancroft Library, Mariposa, Yosemite and elsewhere, and of the University of Utah Research Fund. The Eccleston diary, a primary source for the history of Yosemite and the Mariposa region, is the first comprehensive contemporary account of important events in California's history which it illuminates in sharp detail. Its publication may bring forth companion records. It would be interesting to know how many men in the Mariposa Battalion, an organization of over two hundred men, kept diaries or wrote letters home. Surely more than one!

A VISIT TO THE CENTER OF THE PARK

By Robert W. Carpenter, Jr. Park Naturalist One warm August day I was try- haven't been there yet. No, it would ing to decide where to hike. Being be pretty dry. I'll save that for next somewhat lazy, I wanted a fairly May or June. How about the Tioga short trail and not too strenuous, Pass Road? A hike to the top of El some place that I had not visited be- Capitan from the Old Big Oak Flat fore and that had scenic and photo- Road below Tamarack Flat? Or to graphic possibilities. There are many the rim of the Grand Canyon of the places around Yosemite Valley that Tuolumne River from Harden Lake, fit this description but very few that driving beyond White Wolf Lodge? I had not already visited at least Say! Here's May Lake and Mt. once. Spreading out a topographic Hoffmann. About a month before, I map of Yosemite I began consider- had hiked from Tuolumne Meadows ing the possibilities. to Glen Aulin and Waterwheel Falls Let's see! If I were to drive up to and out to May Lake and the Tioga Bridalveil Creek Campground I could Pass Road. But I didn't have time hike in to Ostrander Lake. Or, from then (or, to be frank, I was too tired) the Glacier Point Road, I could take to climb Mt. Hoffmann. Let's see! a leisurely trip to the south rim of the From the May Lake Junction on the Valley along the scenic and flowery Tioga Pass Road to the top of Mt. Pohono Trail. Hm-m-m! There's Chil- Hoffmann would be a climb of about nualna Falls above Wawona. I 2,000 feet and a round trip back to the Mt. Hoffmann and the High Sierra from Sentinel Dome. —Anderson

road of about 6 or 7 miles. That's it, into a rowboat to go out into the lake then — a trip to the center of the park. and try his luck at landing the trout What will I need to take with me? that were jumping and rippling the Lunch, camera, binoculars, an extra otherwise mirror-smooth surface. Folshirt in case it gets cool on top and, lowing the trail to the left of the lake of course, my comfortable hiking I saw a marmot sunning himself on shoes. a rock about 150 feet to one side. By It was still early when I arrived at maneuvering behind a large boulder the May Lake Junction so I started between the marmot and myself I leisurely along the trail, pausing off narrowed this distance to about 20 and on to examine a strange flower feet hoping to get a picture. Peeking or to admire a familiar one; to tease cautiously around the boulder I saw a chipmunk by making squeaking that Mr. Marmot was still enjoying noises; to watch some juncos, chicka- the sun but was looking directly todees and nuthatches busily picking ward me. Trying for a better position their meals from the ground litter, the I climbed up the slanting boulder undersides of the tree branches and and set my camera. It was a nice try, the crevices of the bark. Mt. Hoff- but, while I edged over the top the mann, bathed in the early morning marmot disappeared. sunlight, was looming up ahead. The Continuing along the trail I came trail was cool and refreshing in the all of a sudden to the edge of a shadows of the red firs, white pines meadow in which several deer were and hemlocks. peacefully feeding. Fortunately I was At the May Lake High Sierra downwind and in the shade of some Camp just a few people were begin- small lodgepole pines so that I had ning to stir. Someone was getting not been discovered by the deer. Panorama from Tioga Road near Yosemite Creek. —Anderson

Mt. Starr King and the Clark Range. —Anderson Standing perfectly still I counted six Only the buck remained. Trotting does, seven fawns and a big buck slowly toward the far end of the whose antlers were in velvet. In a meadow he seemed to be attracting few minutes two more does and a attention and exposing himself to fawn appeared at the far end of the any dangers while the rest of the meadow. One of the does seemed herd sought safety. Again no pictures quite concerned as she anxiously but a very rewarding observation of scanned the meadow. Then, as one one of nature's endless dramas. of the fawns raced toward her, she Beyond the meadow the trees grew relaxed and stretched her front legs smaller and sparser as the trail forward so that her chest almost started winding up the rocky slope touched the ground in greeting her of Mt. Hoffmann. Several fat marmots youngster who had strayed away. could be seen at one time waddling The fawn then proceeded to help over the rocks. During the whole trip himself to some warm milk. I must have seen at least two dozen Wishing to get close enough to of these overgrown ground squirrels, capture this peaceful scene on film I some of them at elevations of at least crept slowly forward on hands and 9500 feet. At about the same elevaknees through the small pines at the tion three bucks came crashing out edge of the clearing. I hadn't gone of a white bark pine thicket where far when I was startled by a snort they had bedded down to get out of coming from about 100 feet to my the midday sun. left among the trees. A doe, perhaps With the opening up of the forest acting as a sort of sentry, had be- the panorama of Yosemite started trayed my presence. She snorted unfolding. Among the first peaks to again, warning the others who quick- be recognized were Cloud's Rest and ly disappeared among the trees. Half Dome, appearing close enough

to touch but yet several miles away. model of the Sierra in the Yosemite As I climbed higher, more familiar Museum. peaks came into view — Mt. Clark, the As I was eating my lunch and Lyell group, then, from the summit drinking in with my eyes the vast of Mt. Hoffmann at 10,002 feet above panorama laid out before me I sea level, Cathedral Peak, Mt. Gibbs, thought about the crowded condi- Mt. Dana, Mt. Conness. All seemed tions in Yosemite Valley. Here, just to be greeting me as old friends. Al- an hour's drive and a three-hour though it was a wonderfully clear hike from the Valley, I was comday I was unable to single out and pletely alone with miles and miles name any peaks in the maze of of wilderness on all sides. If the mountains north of Conness. Looking people in the Valley would only west, it seemed as though the moun- spread out more they, too, could be tains rolled on and on. It was even enjoying some of this wonderful clear enough to see the Coast Range scenery. My thought bubble was over 100 miles away. This was truly broken as I heard voices and saw the geographical center of Yosemite. four hikers approaching the summit of I felt like a tiny speck on the wall my granite tower.

FOR OUR YOUNGER READERS

By Ralph Frazier, Ranger Naturalist (Author's note: It has been brought to the attention of the writer that subscriptions to "NATURE NOTES" are made out quite often in the name of a child and that we have very few articles written primarily for children. The following was written for our younger readers but could be of interest to readers of all ages.) So many of us start out with our parents for a wonderful place like Yosemite — happy, excited, and looking forward to the new and thrilling things that we will see. We are not disappointed! Everything is just as we were told that it would be. The waterfalls, so high above us, make our hearts beat faster as we see them come tumbling down. The Steller's jay and the black-headed grosbeak We listen to the ranger naturalist talk. —Bullard

Sometimes a deer wants to hear too. —McIntyre make us laugh by means of their the talks given by the ranger-naturalfunny antics as they fight over a ists during the day at the museum. piece of bread that the boldest stole Some of us are interested in snakes from the picnic table. The deer in the and how they move. meadow seem so tame even though The ranger naturalist says, "Supthe rangers tell us that they have pose that you had no arms and legs. injured boys and girls such as us You wouldn't be able to come to dinwith their sharp hooves when they ner when your mother called; and, have become frightened. Some of us even if you did get to the table, you are even lucky enough to see a real, wouldn't have any arms with which live bear. We notice that the tracks to lift the food to your mouth. What he leaves look almost human and would you do? Let's see what the that the fur on his back sways from snake does." side to side as he moves clumsily Then he goes on to say that the along. It's all so new to us that we snake has more rib bones than we have lots of questions. They just have. He has big scales which are come tumbling out. Sometimes there attached to his belly by their front is no one around to answer them. We edges. As he moves his ribs, the are lucky, though. We can listen to scales move forward and hook onto

The children love the museum. —McIntyre the ground by the loose back edge that we will always remember. The so that his body moves forward. But poisonous coral snake always has a there is more to the story. He can yellow ring on each side of the black coil himself into loops and can throw rings. The mountain king which we the front part of his body forward find in California has only one yelquite quickly. The rattlesnake does low ring next to each black ring. this when he strikes. The snake's On one of the nature walks a little lower jaw is made up of two parts. girl tells the ranger-naturalist that she He can move one side of his jaw has enjoyed watching the many difand then the other. By doing this he ferent birds that they have seen but can swallow a mouse without using she doesn't get to see many birds any hands. when she is at home in the city. We have always been a little bit Everyone seems interested in the afraid of snakes but after the ranger little girl's remark, so the ranger naturalist allows us to handle such naturalist says that he is going to write an article for "Yosemite Nature beautiful snakes as the coral-bellied Notes" telling boys and girls how to ring-necked snake and the Sierra make the birds come to their window mountain king, we find that they are sills and be fed. not slimy and that they love to be With the thought that an article is held by us. We are sad to learn that going to be written just for us in a many people kill the mountain king little magazine that we love, we are because they think that it is the better able to leave Yosemite. Gosh, poisonous coral snake. We are anx- wouldn't it be nice to come back ious to know how we, as animal when there is snow on the ground! friends, can tell the difference be- When we ask Mom if we can, she tween them. He tells us something says, "We'll see. We'll see."

Poems From The Mountains The Great Horned Owl By Allan Shields Prowler of the midnight forest, Taloned death on silent wings, Master flutist, what's your quest Gliding beneath the wide moon-rings? Perched atop the tallest cedar, Outlined full against night sky, Are there any night-eyes keener? Does your call end with a sigh? Hunter with a constant question, Symbol of the wiser choice, Does your sadness cause you mention Nightly search in muted voice? Feathered guardian of the silence Play the role, then seek your rest. We, too, find nocturnal solace When at last we go to nest.

CLASSMATE OF THE SEQUOIA

By David Essel, Ranger Naturalist. The oldest living thing on brown bark and chocolate brown earth,... Sequoia gigantea, the cones lend color to this aged tree. Sierra redwood. Remnant of an an- Its 1½ inch long needles occur in cient race, inured to struggle..." The bunches of five deep green blades, ranger-naturalist at the campfire was clustered at the tips of its twigs. telling the story of the noble tree that Dr. Edmund Schulman of the Unilifts its arms amongst the granite versity of Arizona, in the course of boulders of Yosemite. However, he tree ring studies, has found through was not wholly correct. Struggle? "increment borings" that these Yes. Noble, inspiring, awesome? dwellers of a semi-arid region show Surely! Oldest?... well, not so as much as 75 annual rings to the fast. This may have been considered inch. By counting these annual rings, all right to say two years ago, but created by the different rate of not now. No, the giant sequoia has growth during spring and summer an older living classmate. Both at- seasons, it was discovered that these tended nature's exacting school to- trees have succeeded the giant segether, both learned to survive in quoia as the most ancient living harsh extremes, and indeed the one thing. was already in kindergarten before The brownish-red wood, like redour oldest sequoias had sprouted. wood, is brittle and light in weight. Facing the precipitous eastern It is rather coarse grained and has edge of the Sierra Nevada lie the little use, except perhaps as fence White Mountains, 20-40 miles distant, posts in this dry region where timber separated by the Owens Valley. is rather scarce. This should prevent Here in the rarefied air of a wind- its extermination through logging. swept plateau in Inyo National For- Still, it is well that this region is being est at 11,000 feet altitude grow the preserved by designating it the shrub-shaped bristlecone pine (Pinus White Mountain National Area, for aristata), oldest living thing known the gnarled, sand-weathered on earth; older by centuries than the branches would still have been subnearly 4,000 years of its Sierra ject to the ravages of the souvenir neighbor. hunter, using it for woodworking pur- Usually growing to a height of poses. 15-30 feet, these trees are dwarfed It is a long way from the early by the nearly 300 feet of the sequoia. days of a public uninformed and dis- Their trunks, too, fail to measure up interested in the essentials of conserto the 30 feet of some redwoods. vation to the present day, which wit- They are normally only 1 - 1½ feet nesses the rapidity with which this in diameter (however, one of the old- 2,330 acre area of nearly pure bristleest trees, "The Patriarch" is close to cone pine forest has been set aside 12 feet across, although this is made for protection. In former days, when of many stems grown together. All the sequoias were discovered, they these stems have arisen from the were wastefully logged. This occurred same root crown.) Its dull, reddish- with little profit to the logger, and

only to the detriment of all succeed- hands are in the process of being acing generations, before anyone quired by state or national agencies. raised a voice in protest. Happily, It is well, for both of these trees have nearly 90% of the total remaining that quality of struggle and agelessacreage of Sequoia gigantea is now ness which behooves one to muse on in public hands, while many of the time and the shortness of our own more desirable groves still in private few years; to pause, to reflect, to ponder unknowables.

OUT OF YOSEMITE'S PAST

A One Picture Story June 2, 1915 — Mr. Edwin Hoffman drove the first auto of the Yosemite Stage & Turnpike Co. into Yosemite Valley over the Wawona Road. J. T. Boysen