July 1954

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOLUME XXXIII • NUMBER 7 JULY 1954

Ragged Peak, Yosemite, National Park —Ansel Adams

Mirror Lake and Mount Watkins, Morning, by Ansel Adams from "My Camera in Yosemite Valley, " reproduction by permission of Virginia Adams and Houghton Mifflin Co.

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF

THE Yosemite NATURALIST division AND

THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

John C. Preston, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist D. H. Hubbard, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Bryant, Junior Park Naturalist

VOL. XXXIII JULY 1954 NO. 7 THE GREAT AMERICAN PARK OF THE YOSEMITE

By Frederick Law Olmsted EDITOR'S NOTE: As the "father" of American landscape architecture, Frederick Law Olmsted accomplishments led to his appointment in 1864 as chairman of the first commission through Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove (the Yosemite Grant by act of Congress, 1864) as California state park. Thus he was Yosemite's first administrator. The following brilliant essay, presented to the Yosemite Museum Library by his son, Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., was originally published in the New York Evening Post in 1865. To the Editors of the Evening Post: With the early completion of the and rushes; sometimes narrowed Padlic Railroad there can be no into sparkling rapids and sometimes doubt that the Park established by expanding into placid pools which Mt of Congress as a place of free reflect the wondrous heights on reation for the people of the either side. The walls of the chasm iced States and their guests forare generally half a mile, sometimes er, will be resorted to from all nearly a mile in height above these is of the civilized world. Many meadows, and where most lofty and lelligent men, nevertheless, have nearly perpendicular, sometimes rdly yet, heard of it, and hence overjutting. At frequent intervals, an effort to give an account of the however, they are cleft, broken, terleading qualities of its scenery may raced, and sloped, and in these be pardoned, however inadequate it places, as well as everywhere upon It is sure to be. the summit, they are overgrown by The main feature of the Yosemite thick clusters of trees. is best indicated in one word as a There is nothing strange or exotic chasm. It is a chasm nearly a mile in the character of the vegetation; in average width, however, and most of the trees and plants, esMore than ten miles in length. The pecially those of the meadows and central and broader part of this waterside, are closely allied to and chasm is occupied at the bottom by are not readily distinguished from a series of groves of magnificent those most common in the landscape trees, and meadows of the most of the Eastern States or the midland varied, luxuriant, and exquisite counties of England. The stream is herbage, through which meanders such a one as Shakespeare delighted a good stream of the clearest water, and brings pleasing reminiscences to the traveller of the Avon and eddying among banks of ferns or the upper Thames.

The walls of the chasm are generally half a mile, sometimes nearly a mile in height above these meadows, and where most lofty and nearly perpendicular, sometimes overhanging. At frequent intervals, however, they are cleft, broken, terraced, and sloped, and in these

Banks of heartsease and beds of geous and magnificent thunder cowslips and daisies are frequent, heads. The average elevation of tlr( and thickets of dogwood, alder, and ground is higher than that of the willow often fringe the shores. At highest peak of the White Moue several points streams of water flow tains, or the Alleghenies, and the air into the chasm, descending at one is rare and bracing; yet, its terry leap fron five hundred to fourteen perature is never uncomfortably co( hundred feet. One small stream falls, in summer, nor severe in winter. in three closely consecutive pitches, Flowering shrubs of sweet frt a distance of two thousand six hungrance and balmy herbs abound t t dred feet, which is more than fifthe meadows, and there is ever'; teen times the height of the falls where a delicate odor of the pre of Niagara. In the spray of these vailing foliage in the pines and falls superb rainbows are seen. cedars. The water of the stream :; At certain points the walls of rock is soft and limpid, as clear as crystal, are ploughed in polished horizontal abounds with trout and, except near furrows, at others moraines of boulits sources, is, during the heat,t ders and pebbles are found, both the summer, of an agreeable tern evincing the terrific force with which perature for bathing. In the lower in past ages of the earth's history a part of the valley there are copious glacier has moved down the chasm mineral springs, the water of on e from among the adjoining peaks of of which is regarded by the abori;;the Sierras. Beyond the lofty walls inal inhabitants as having remart:

still loftier mountains rise, some able curative properties. A basin crowned by forests, others in simple still exists to which weak and sickly rounded cones of light, gray granite. persons were brought for bathing. The climate of the region is never The water has not been analyzed, dry like that of the lower parts of the but that it possesses highly tonic es State of California; even when, for well as other medical qualities can several months, not a drop of rain be readily seen. In the neighborin L; has fallen twenty miles to the westmountains there are also springs ward, and the country there is strongly charged with carbonic acid parched, and a ll vegetation gas, and said to resemble in tas t e withered, the Yosemite continues the Empire Springs of Saratoga. to receive frequent soft showers, and The other district, associated with to be dressed throughout in living this by the act of Congress, consist :, green. of four sections of land, about thirty After midsummer a light, transparmiles distant from it, on whic. ent haze generally pervades the atstand, in the midst of a forest corn mosphere, giving an indescribable posed of the usual trees and shrub: softness and exquisite dreamy of the western slope of the Sierra Ne charm to the scenery, like that provada, about six hundred mature cured by the Indian summer of the trees of the giant sequoia. Amonii East. Clouds gathering at this season them is one known through numer upon the snowy peaks which rise ous paintings and photographs cn within forty miles on each side of the the Grizzly Giant, which probably it chasm to a height of over twelve the noblest tree in the world. Beside: thousand feet sometimes roll down this, there are hundreds of such over the cliffs in the afternoon, and, beauty and stateliness that, to one under the influence of the rays of who moves among them in the rev the setting sun, form the most garerent mood to which they so stone

ly incite the mind, it will not seem strange that intelligent travellers have declared that they would rather have passed by Niagara itsoli than have missed visiting this Wove. In the region intermediate between thu two districts the scenery generally is of a grand character, consisting of granite mountains and a forest composed mainly of coniferous trees of great size, yet often more perfect, vigorous, and luxuriant than trees of hull the size are ever found on the AiI((titic side of the continent. It is nut, however, in its grandeur or in III forest beauty that the attraction 01 this intermediate region consists, 00 much as in the more secluded Charms of some of its glens, formed by mountain torrents fed from the snow banks of the higher Sierras. These have worn deep and picturesque channels in the granite Irocks, and in the moist shadows of *Mir recesses grow tender plants 01 rare and peculiar loveliness. The broad parachute-like leaves of the pllate saxifrage, delicate ferns, soft flosses, and the most brilliant lichens abound, and in following up the ravines, cabinet pictures open (II ()very turn, which, while cornposed of materials mainly new to 11w artist, constantly recall the most valued sketches of Calame in the Alin and Apennines. The difference in the elevation of dlllorent parts of the district amounts to considerably more than a mile. Owing to this difference and the meat variety of exposure and other Circumstances there is a larger numbar of species of plants within the district than probably can be found within a similar space anywhere.In(, on the continent. Professor Torploy, who has given the received botanical names to several hundred plants of California, states that on the apace of a few acres of meadow Frederick Law Olmsted, Sr., Yosemite 's first administrator. land he found about three hundred species, and that within sight of the trail usually followed by visitors, at least six hundred may be observed, most of them being small and delicate flowering plants. By no statement of the elements of the scenery can any idea of that scenery be given, any more than a true impression can be conveyed of a human face by a measured account of its features. It is conceivable that any one or all of the cliffs of the Yo Semite might be changed in form and color, without lessening the enjoyment which is now obtained from the scenery. Nor is this enjoyment any more essentially derived from its meadows, its trees, its streams; least of all can it be attributed to the cascades. These, indeed, are scarcely to be named among the elements of the scenery. They are mere incidents, of far less consequence any day of the summer than the imperceptible humidity of the atmosphere and the soil. The chasm remains when they are dry,

and the scenery may be, and often The union of the deepest sublimity is, more effective, by reason of some with the deepest beauty of nature, temporary condition of the air, of not in one feature or another, not in clouds, of moonlight, or of sunlight one part or one scene or another, through mist or smoke, in the season not any landscape that can be when the cascades attract the least framed by itself, but all around and, attention, than when their volume of wherever the visitor goes, consti-' water is largest and their roar like tutes the Yo Semite the greatest' constant thunder. glory of nature. No photograph or There are falls of water elsewhere series of photographs, no paintings finer, there are more stupendous ever prepare a visitor so that he is rocks, more beetling cliffs, there are not taken by surprise, for could the deeper and more awful chasms, scenes be faithfully represented the there may be as beautiful streams, visitor is affected not only by that as lovely meadows, there are larger upon which his eye is at any metrees. It is in no scene or scenes the ment fixed, but by all that with which charm consists, but in the miles of on every side it is associated, and scenery with cliffs of awful height of which it is seen only as an inand rocks of vast magnitude and herent part. For the same reason no of varied and exquisite coloring, and description, no measurements, no banked and fringed and draped and comparisons are of much value. Inshadowed by the tender foliage of deed, the attention called by these noble and lovely trees and bushes, to points in some definite way rereflected from the most placid pools, markable, by fixing the mind on and associated with the most tranmere matters of wonder or curiosity, quil meadows, the most playful prevents the true and far more exstreams, and every variety of soft traordinary character of the scenery and peaceful pastoral beauty. from being appreciated.

ADDITIONAL FACTS ON THE GIANT SEQUOIAS

By Gayle S. Alden, Ranger Naturalist The magnificent giant sequoias Brittleness of sequoia wood also CITe the largest and oldest trees in seems to serve as a protective chat-Ow

world. Their age is attributed acteristic. Being brittle, the wood largely to the natural protections breaks easily and has little structural they have against the enemies fire, strength compared to that of other Insects, and disease. Although the building materials. This means that bees are resistant to these foes, they it is not often sought for construction frequently suffer from their weakenpurposes though its other qualities InV effects. The reaction of the semake it valuable. When a sequoia quotas to such injuries and a few falls, its trunk usually shatters into of their other little-known charactermany relatively small sections with Istics are of interest. the tremendous impact of striking the A sequoia severely injured at its ground. As much as 80 percent of the base by fire will increase its growth tree may be lost for use as lumber. in this area in an evident attempt Strangely, then, the giant sequoias to regain the support needed. If a appear to have a defense even tree begins to lean as a result of the against man, their greatest potential destruction of a portion of its base, enemy. However, man has now beII may react in several ways in adcome the trees' strongest ally, for dllion to increased growth. It may most of the sequoia groves have accelerate the enlargement of the been included in the Sierran national branches on the opposite side from parks where protection is afforded the lean. This tends to re-establish them. In Yosemite 's Mariposa Grove, III center of gravity directly above major fires have been avoided for lb base. Branches on the side toward some 90 years. By eliminating fire Which the tree is leaning may drop —the trees ' gravest natural threat— elf, decreasing the weight on that man is aiding these giant mature dde. All of these reactions occur specimens to live longer, and the Slowly. Thus the survival of the tree young trees, whose thinner bark Okay depend upon the time it is renders them more vulnerable, to Oven in which to react and upon reach full stature. May man conprevention of further destruction by tinue to be the giant sequoias ' Other agencies. greatest friend.

NOTICE T'O SUBSCRIBERS

It is a pleasure to announce that the August 1954 issue of Yosemite NATURE NOTES will be a completely revised edition of our booklet, "Birds of Yosemite National Park." We feel that the new edition, with many additional descriptions and illustrations and a beautiful colored cover, will be welcomed as a valuable, up-to-date reference. Subscribers will receive the new booklet in place of the usual monthly issue, at no additional cost.—Ed.

HIKING IN TUOLUMNE'S WONDERLAND

By Merrie Jo Warne, Yosemite Field School, 1953 A thunderous roar! Clouds of mist precipitous ledge, to bound up again and spray! Then in a very short diein clouds of boiling white foam and tance all is quiet and still. Deep, swirling spray. Around the next blue-green pools harbor lazy trout bend the canyon broadened and the and reveal dark shadows caused by waters were clear and calm, for overhanging limbs. When following there in deep pools flanked by a the course of the Tuolumne River forest of quaking aspen the river through the high Sierra of Yosemite flowed slowly as if to rest before it National Park, one discovers that the again thundered downward to beat character and mood of the water are the giant rounded boulders with its constantly changing. ruthless fury. The river forms many glorious But let me get back to our hike. spectacles, but descriptive words fail We left Soda Springs about seven to convey the full strength and in the morning and walked at a cornbeauty which the hiker observes fortable pace. It was quiet, and the along the trail to Waterwheel Falls. night 's frost still coated the short It is about 9 miles of easy walking grasses and sedges. For the first part from Soda Springs in the western of the journey the trail did not follow end of Tuolumne Meadows to this the river, but cut across meadow and famed water display. The going is all forest. A mile or so to the west downhill en route to the falls, so exherd of 15 to 20 deer were grazing tra time should be allowed for the peacefully. They formed a picture much more difficult return trip. that looked for all the world as if it One Saturday in mid-August last had been taken from a storybook. year I took the trail to Waterwheel Every few minutes we heard the with three other Field Schoolers. it high, piercing whistle of the "picket. was a wonderful hike, the kind that pin " or Belding ground squirrel, and leaves a pleasant lingering memory as we walked along we notice which is sure to crop up at unexthese tiny animals sitting erect i pected moments for years to come. have a look at us. There were nil I have seen spectacular mountain merous lupines, shootingstars, and landscapes before, but never have other flowers which offered brilliant I been more impressed than by the splashes of color, and a flock ea power and sound of this plunging mountain, bluebirds added move torrent. Wherever we looked along ment to the setting. the way there was wild, unmarred After a while the trail entere, el natural beauty characterized by a lodgepole pine forest and the sharp contrasts in color, sound, and came upon a large, fairly level gran motion. ite expanse. Here were many glade. The scene varied continually. In erratics, or great boulders which heel one area the sky was bright, an inbeen left scattered about as a glaci..; tense cloudless blue. The canyon of long ago melted away. A few was relatively narrow and deep. The gnarled lodgepoles grew out,! hues of its sheer granite walls were cracks in the white rock. Near thi somber gray, blue, white, and purplace the trail for the first time al, pie. Here the river roared like a doproached the river, which flowed ii r%lructivo tyrant as it crashed over a Cl smooth, rapid curve and eddia

Olen Aulin, Tuolumne Canyon, by Ansel Adams from "Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada, " reproduction by permission of Houghton Mifflin Co. over the edge of the granite bank. The trail suddenly began to drop o trail again entered the lodgeand several switchbacks were enpolo forest, and from this point on countered. Gradually we became followed the course of the Tuolumne. aware of a constant sound, and as Before long our path came out on we progressed this was discernible 1170 brink of the racing river and as a mighty roar. The noise grew cloosod on a high log bridge to the deafening, and we found that it was Watilorn side. For a while it passed made by the river as it cascaded Over flat granite fields where there over a broad ledge to form the magWen) some large glacially polished nificent Tuolumne Falls. Though not pplc1105, more erratics, and the trees a high waterfall, the force of the WAru twisted and stunted, but soon river as it crashed down into the to trail threaded through another seething pool below was tremenkovoly forest. Now many mountain dous. The dazzling white water stood unlocks were interspersed with the out in bold contrast with the sky. ea, and it was dark and cool. Rod Tuolumne Falls marks the begin1hor, Labrador tou, chid corn lidos nin<1 of Iho rivor 's abrupt descent ina abundant. to the Grand Canyon of the Tu-

olumne, and from there down to form California Falls, 6 miles below Waterwheel the scenery became Soda Springs. A short distance more impressive with each step. The farther the tumultuous water once canyon began to take shape as the more plunged over a ledge at Letrail led us rapidly downward. Soon Conte Falls. we noticed low cliffs on either side Then after countless switchbacks of the narrow gorge. we suddenly got our first view of Just above Glen Aulin High Sierra Waterwheel Falls. We walked out Camp the river next vaulted over a on the steep, gray-white granite inseries of steps to form White Cascline to absorb the splendor dis cade. Here again a great rumble played before us. The slope wet: greeted us as the water went boilbrown and slick where the river ing down the steep slope into the dashed over it. As the water struck large emerald pool at its base. A the hollowed depressions in the in small, shallow stream entered the cline, it was hurled up and bacl Tuolumne near the bridge at Glen some 25 feet in a majestic wheel Aulin and its slow-moving water like motion. The spray was whit was lost in the turbulent rush of the and glistening. Droplets sparkled it river. the sun and produced tiny rainbows. In the quaking aspen grove below Sitting near the top of the catarac., Glen Aulin were a few scattered I surveyed the canyon below an ! lodgepole pines lending a touch of the imposing cliffs flanking it. There reality to an otherwise magic forest. were venerable, gnarled juniper, The aspens were slender and gracewith reddish bark and light-gree ful. Their small round leaves danced foliage. Propped by a young juniper and trembled in the slightest breeze a dead incense-cedar trunk leane l and their greenish-white trunks with far out over the torrent—a glarir bold black scars added a ghostly gray specter surrounded by rushin r, note. The sunlight was sprinkled in living water. Another grizzled cede, tiny moving patches on the soft probably injured in past ages, hai green grasses and ferns. There was four giant limbs forming a rounde a jumbled mass of color, for the encrown. About ten feet lower, this-, tire forest floor was blanketed with branches jutted off to the left to gi g. wildflowers. An enchanting growth the tree a grotesque outline. Belo; of a tall sky-blue lupine and a shortthe main slope and waterwheels, stemmed larkspur was scattered huge boulder cast a faint shades. among the yellow-green foliage of Although the gradient was mor corn lilies. Dead wood lay decaying gentle there, I could see churnir among Mariposa lilies. The river green pools flecked with white. Tlr was peaceful here and a high blackrocks and boulders were brown ner l: and-brown-streaked cliff was visible the water, but were streaked bla through the trees. by innumerable lichens. I was sure there could be no After watching and listening scenes more lovely than those we an hour or so we returned to ti i had passed, but as the trail conpath and followed it down the ste( r tinued downward the canyon bedry canyonside. Plants of the chaps, came narrower and the cliffs ral type grew among the enormo> > towered higher overhead. The Tuboulders chinquapin, huckleberry olumne again became a raging, oak, and contorted, stunted manzcar foaming mass as it hurtled down to sta. Near the base of the great rani,

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a tiny trail branched off to the left aspens along this quiet stretch were and wandered ' down through the numerous deer tracks, and paw chinquapin. On a flat shelf some marks which we were unable to quarter of a mile below Waterwheel identify. There on a grassy bank we falls was an intriguing campsite, stopped at last to eat our trail nestled among tall, masterly conilunches, and to rest before starting tors. The river bent sharply and enthe long climb out of the wonderlored a deep, green pool lined with land which is the Grand Canyon of white sand. Beneath the willows and the Tuolumne.

LATE-BLOOMING SNOWPLANTS

By Richard J. Hartesveldt, Ranger Naturalist On August 21, 1952, while seekwere located deep in a north-southInc my way to the top of a high running notch in granite, where the.fcmite hill west of Soda Springs last of the glaciers had plucked out Meadow in Devils Postpile National fractured rock. The notch was at Monument, I was considerably surleast a quarter of a mile long, =placid to see a snowplant (Sarcodrs row, and about 30 to 40 feet deep.

0onoim ea) in the prime of bloom. The sun shone on the bottom of it nio heavy snow of the previous for only a brief time each day, proWinter and the topography of the viding so little warmth that the snow OW were together largely responstill lay unmelted on the ground. It tlllblo for the late appearance of this was not too unusual, then, that end other nearby specimens of the where spring was two months late, Striking scarlet plant. Most of them snowplants were still blooming.