June 1953

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOLUME XXXII • NUMBER 6 JUNE 1953

Yosemite Falls from near Old Village —Ansel Adams

Tenaya Lake, Yosemite National Park, by Ansel Adams from "Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada. " Reproduction by permission of Houghton Mifflin Company. Called Py-we-ack or "Lake of the Shining Rocks" by the Yosemite Indians, the lake was given its present name by L. H. Bunnell of the Mariposa Battalion, in 1851, in honor of Tenaya--chief of the Yosemites. Cover : Yosemite Falls from near Old Village, by Ansel Adams.

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF

THE Yosemite NATURALIST division AND

THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

John C. Preston, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist D. H. Hubbard, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist

VOL. XXXII JUNE 1953 NO. 6 INDIAN SITES STUDY ADDS TO YOSEMITE'S STORY

By Richard J. Hartesveldt, Ranger Naturalist In July 1952 an important archeological study was undertaken in and about Yosemite National Park as a joint project of the University of California Archeological Survey and the National Park Service. This study integrated, for the first time, the knowledge of many previous reports with the field research made by the university team. Members of the team were Mr. J. A. Bennyhoff (author of the resulting report), Mr. Richard Brooks, and Mr. Leroy Fischer. Although the study was comprehensive, special attention was given to the recording of sites in the more accessible areas where the ever-increasing flow of park visitors threatens vandalism and other types of destruction and alteration. Because of the great altitudinal range of this extensive survey (1,600 feet to 10,700 feet), an attempt was made to take samples of settlement patterns in the various life zones. The locating of trade routes and other trails was also given particular attention. Of the 348 known archeological sites in the Yosemite National Park region which have been assigned numbers, 328 are within the park boundaries; the remaining 20 are located nearby and are closely associated with the others. The 1952 University of California team located, on foot, 291 of the total number of sites. Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and Dana Meadows were covered more thoroughly than any other area. Other meadows, lake shores, and creeks that penetrated the high country were covered as thoroughly as time permitted to ascertain the role they played in Indian trails and trade routes. Villages and campsites were measured and photographed; mortar holes were counted and measured at each site to determine the length of time it was used and how large the village was. All artifacts and flakes of obsidian were collected and added to the University of California permanent collection. Climatic conditions limited the Indian occupation of Yosemite Valley to approximately eight months of the year—April through November. Because of this seasonal habitation and a small population, there were but few permanent villages, and, consequently, large refuse mounds were not formed and the midden was rather evenly distributed. Artifacts and charcoal-darkened soil were

found only in some of the larger If less than six holes were present sites. Obsidian chips were about the it was classified as a house site. The only evidence remaining to indicate largest number of sites were in this the approximate area of most sites. group. The mortar holes were nearly Mortar holes, at lower elevations, were valuable clues to villages and campsites. They were particularly helpful in Yosemite Valley in such places as the present public campgrounds, where they were the only indication left. If less than six holes were present it was classified as a house site. The largest number of sites were in this group. The mortar holes were nearly all less than 3 inches deep, indicating short occupation, possibly by a single family. Small villages were represented by places having from 7 to 15 holes. The depth of the mortar holes was greater than in the previous group, with 15% being more A comprehensive study of the than 5 inches deep. The two groups mortar holes at 111 sites gave the of sites with greater numbers of holes survey members a vague idea of the were classified as large villages : 14 size of the former settlements and of these had from 19 to 29 mortar the length of time each was occuholes, of which 12% were more than pied. Earlier researchers were told 5 inches deep; the 13 largest villages that a mortar hole was abandoned contained from 46 to 417 mortar when it became about 5 inches deep. holes, 16% of these being over 5 The University of California team inches deep. At individual locations found the depths to vary from a where rocks for mortars were limited, slight depression in the rock to 11 as many as 54% of the holes were inches. The number of mortar holes at least 5 inches deep, indicating a at any one site varied from 1 to 417. longer period of use for each hole. Anderson Granite rock with many Indian mortar holes, near Big Meadow. Acorns were pounded into meal by pestle rocks in these holes.

It was deemed impossible to asand campsites were abundant along sign a unit period of time to the sites streams and meadows. Tuolumne on the basis of depth of the mortar Meadows, Dana Meadows, and the holes because of the variety of conditions. Lyell Fork area were among those ditions involved. Certain advanmost heavily used. Many other sites tageous holes may have been used were located along smaller streams. over and over again for many years. but only where open meadows were Available space also determined present to provide hunting. how long a particular group of The association of habitations with mortar holes would be used and life zones showed that only 3% of how deep they would become. It is to be assumed, however, that the large villages were occupied for many generations. The survey members located 176 sites by obsidian chips alone and classified them as trail or hunting camps. There were 45 large campsites where the ground was littered with obsidian chips. Indians undoubtedly revisited these places season after season. The remainder of the camps were small, their size being based on 5 to 20 chips per site, and were possibly used only for a short time. The Indians considered several factors in choosing a camp or village location. Dryness was one of the most important of these factors. Most of the villages were located in the sunniest areas. The only rock shelters used were those that were continually dry. The selection of a dry position, in many cases, meant that it was necessary to live some distance from a river or creek and often away from rocks suitable for mortar holes. The most favored areas of habitation in this region were Yosemite Valley, Wawona, Big Meadow, Mather, Lake Eleanor, and Hetchy. The tributary hanging valleys of Yosemite Valley were also favored spots of occupation. Rocks used for mortars in these higher places were rare since they were above the oak-pine belt. The high subalpine regions of Yosemite were favored hunting areas. And campsites were abundant along streams and meadows. Tuolumne Meadows, Dana Meadows, and the Lyell Fork area were among those most heavily used. Many other sites were located along smaller streams, but only where open meadows were present to provide hunting. The association of habitations with life zones showed that only 3% of the 290 sites with detailed information large villages were occupied for (approximately 3,000 feet and below), many generations. 37% were in the Transition Zone (apThe survey members located 176 proximately 3,000 to 6,000 feet), and sites by obsidian chips alone and 60% were in the Boreal Zone (6,000 classified them as trail or hunting feet and above). camps. There were 45 large campThe Upper Sonoran Zone areas sites where the ground was littered were not heavily used nor were any with obsidian chips. Indians undoubtedly revisited these places season after season. Of the sites large, there was an abundant variety of fruits and nuts, but season after season. The remainder animal life was scarce in the warmof the camps were small, their size er months. Many of the Transition being based on 5 to 20 chips per Zone Indians came down to the site, and were possibly used only for Upper Sonoran Zone as a wintering a short time. area. Further study is necessary beThe Indians considered several fore satisfactory conclusions can be factors in choosing a camp or village drawn about the use of the Upper location. Dryness was one of the Sonoran Zone by Indians. most important of these factors. Most The Transition Zone was the most of the villages were located in the favorable locality for settlements. sunniest areas. The only rock shelWithin this zone were found 96% of ters used were those that were conthe large village sites, 66% of the tinually dry. The selection of a dry small village sites, and 76% of the position, in many cases, meant that house sites. While the presence of it was necessary to live some disCalifornia black oak was the printance from a river or creek and often cipal reason for the heavy use of this away from rocks suitable for mortar zone, many other food trees and holes. The most favored areas of habitation in this region were Yosemite Valley, Wawona, Big Meadow, Mather, Lake Eleanor, and Hetchy. The tributary hanging valleys of Yosemite Valley were also favored spots of occupation. Rocks plants were available: Canyon live oak, sugar pine, ponderosa pine, California laurel, manzanitas, ninebark, chokecherry, wild currant, strawberry, thimbleberry, and gooseberry. These, along with seed plants, greens, and edible roots and bulbs, used for mortars in these higher were abundant and many of them places were rare since they were could be stored. Animal life was anabove the oak-pine belt. other factor that made the TransiThe high subalpine regions of Yotion Zone important. Rainbow trout, semite were favored hunting areas, a prominent source of food, were

Ansel Adams California black oaks on floor of Yosemite Valley. Their acorns were the "staff of life" of the Yosemite Indians. not found above this zone because The use of caves and rock shelof their restriction by the high waterters has played but a minor part in falls. the aboriginal occupation of the YoThe Boreal Zone contained the semite area. Only six were found greatest percentage of sites found. having possible evidence of use by However, 88% of them were merely Indians. Obsidian flakes, late-type campsites. The few villages with arrow points, fire drills, and other mortar holes were all located just artifacts have been found near two above the Transition Zone, a short rock shelters yet untouched by park distance from the black oaks. The visitors. One shelter had rough rock highest elevation that mortar rocks walls blocking side entrances from were found was near Harden Lake snow or attack. Mortar rocks are asat 7,500 feet. It is thought that many sociated with some of these places. of the campsites were associated The Indian Caves along the Mirror with trade routes to the Mono Lake Lake Road in Yosemite Valley are region. behind an old village location and Hunting was undoubtedly the priwere used during the cold of winter mars reason for the rather heavy and as a retreat when under attack. use of the Boreal Zone. Food plants Members of the Mariposa Battalion, were not present in quantity and fish who discovered the valley in 1851, were absent in this area. Deer, rabfound two old Indians hiding in bits, bear, squirrels, and raccoons caves, probably these. Midden and inhabited the higher elevations durbasketry have been found in them ing the summer months and were in the 1890's. The pictographs, once important for food and furs. visible in the lower cave, have been

blotted out by smoke of campers ' Pass. The trail to Yosemite Valley fires. divided here, one coming down LitPictographs have been recorded tle Yosemite Valley, and the other in only five localities in Yosemite passing Tenaya Lake and entering National Park. All were painted with Yosemite Valley near Mirror Lake. red pigment. Most of them are in or Occasional entries were made near Yosemite Valley. In Pate Valley along Yosemite Creek. Little was ley is located the only large group found to prove any great use of Indian pictographs. Here was found a dian Canyon as a route in and out great variety of designs, some in of the valley. cised, that are representative of the The Miwoks also traded with peoSierran region. All these designs ple living at lower elevations to the occur commonly as petroglyphs on west. From them they received the the eastern side of the Sierra Neclamshell beads, digger pine nuts, vada, giving additional evidence of associations between the Paiutes, who lived there, and the Miwoks of the western slopes. The Miwoks supplied obsidian, red paint, and cedar woods and skins. The trade and other foods received in return for what they supplied includes clams, digger pine nuts, and other foods. The trade the western slopes. The time of route to the west led up the canyon origin of the pictographs has not wall west of Bridalveil Fall to the been determined accurately, but South Fork of the Merced River, they are related to late or historic rather than down the Merced Gorge. villages and campsites. The early Indian treaties with the The Pate Valley pictograph area Yosemites included the Nutchu and was probably occupied by Indians Pohonichi of the upland valleys west the year round. House pits, averaging of Yosemite, rather than the Indians ing 12 feet in diameter, were located of the lower Merced River area, here and it is believed that these strengthening the belief that the floor depressions in their dwellings Merced Gorge was little used as a were for added warmth during the trail to the valley. colder months. Similar pits have The survey team gave special atbeen found in Yosemite Valley and tention to Yosemite Valley because other localities. Some of them may of the possibility of vandalism and represent sweat houses. other types of destruction of sites. It There is good evidence that the was the largest geographical unit in Miwoks and the Paiutes engaged in eluded in the study and was the most difficult to survey because of extensive trade across the Sierra the heavy visitor population. Most of Nevada. The Miwoks traded acorns, the 54 sites were located on the valclamshell beads, baskets, arrows. ley floor. A few were recorded on and certain berries, for which the bordering slopes as high as 4,400 Paiutes returned obsidian, finished feet. Yosemite Valley has been so points, salt, bows, rabbitskin blankets heavily used within historic times kets, pinyon nuts, buffalo skins, in that even obsidian flakes have be insect pupae, and red and white paint. Even obsidian flakes have become scarce. Earlier accounts are The main trail across the Sierra, vague on the exact locations of vilaccording to early Paiute informants, lases and campsites. Finding them was through Bloody Canyon and has been made difficult or impossible Mono Pass, down the Dana Fork of by the presence of public campthe Tuolumne River to Tuolumne grounds and construction. Only 16 Meadows, and then up to Cathedral of the 40 previously reported sites

Yosemite Valley Indian village diorama, in Yosemite Museum were identified. Many of the earlier vey team, several other collections recorded villages, especially those were examined and included in the described by Merriam, are uncertain report. This is the first really comas to location. This may be due to prehensive analysis of Yosemite the fact that the land claimed by an artifacts. Projectile points were secIndian village outside of the actual and in abundance. More than 600 of living area was called by the same them were sufficiently complete to name as the village, which, on be typed, and these proved to be Merriam's map, did not pinpoint the extremely variable in form and size. village position. The University of This great variation in a comparaCalifornia survey grouped the 41 tively small sample for such a large mortar-rock sites, which were earlier area has made accurate classificalisted as individual sites, into 29 tion and dating nearly impossible. groups. This figure cannot be conSome correlation seems evident with sidered as the final correct figure, points found outside the area. It will however, because the survey lacked remain for considerably more field sufficient time to probe beneath the work to give a full understanding of leaf-mold and pine-needle cover. No the time span represented. Many of evidence of Indian habitation in late the points found on the surface were Pleistocene glacial features was recognized as belonging to the hisfound. toric era. To establish a time seIn addition to the 558 artifacts quence of older civilizations will re- (mostly obsidian flakes and scrapquire careful excavation by compeers) found and cataloged by the surtent archeologists.

Other artifacts, found in smaller to identify late-culture Indian sites. numbers, were blades, blanks, drills The evidence at hand now can be of obsidian and chert, mortar rocks greatly augmented in the future by and pestles, mortars and metates carefully excavating known sites to (possibly recent implements with the better determine the significance of central Miwoks), steatite dishes and artifacts already acquired, and by pendants, and a few pipes and recording new locations, especially beads. in the remoter areas at high elevaThe early reports of numerous and tions. Eventually, the entire story of varied archeological finds have been aboriginal habitation in the Yoconfirmed by the recent survey. Desemite area will be built upon the spite the fact that unauthorized colknowledge derived from thorough lectors have removed much of the archeological studies, such as that surface layer of artifacts, it will still made by the University of California be possible to collect enough points survey team.

WILDFLOWER GARDEN NURSERY

By Karen Sorensen, Yosemite Field School, 1952 just before noon on July 11, 1952, severely. Like any mother, the doe a young enrollee in the Yosemite is ready to protect her young from Junior Nature School and I were any enemy, human or otherwise. walking through the wildflower garPeople in the garden were curious den in back of the Yosemite Museum about the "danger " but none identifying trees and shrubs. It was ventured down the paths. the last day of the school and my When we returned from lunch we small friend was eager to complete found that the little fawn had a new his list of questions. twin. Now it was really a newsA short distance off the path was worthy event. Naturalists, Field a shrub which needed to be exam Schoolers, and their families and fined at closer range. While we were friends, fully equipped with cameras, carefully picking our way through were hopefully waiting their turn to the wildflowers we suddenly saw a photograph the three in spite of the doe gazing at us from behind a cloudy sky and shaded location. The chokecherry bush. Then we saw her doe soon left, however, and the just-born fawn. This event was un crowd dispersed after they had usual here in the garden, which has taken a multitude of pictures of the a high fence to keep deer from get two fawns each lying quietly where ting in and feeding on the plants, so its mother had left it. Only once did we reported it to the naturalists. I see one move; it got up and on its wobbly legs managed to get over Signs reading "Danger—Do Not beside another tree. Pass" were hastily placed on all After waiting quite some time, I set paths leading to the "nursery" in out to find the doe. It took considerorder to protect visitors. Here would able searching and when I found her be the perfect temptation for them to only her eyes and ears were visible. feed or handle the young fawn with She was standing at a distance in a its mother likely to reprimand them thick clump of shrubs, keeping an eye

Harwell Doe with newborn twin fawns. on all that was going on and browsing now and then on nearby plants. She did not return to her fawns until the museum was closed and everyone had gone home. Consequently this occasion did not offer a typical situation in which to observe unnoticed the behavior of a doe with her newborn fawns. The following morning she again left when visiting hours began and watched from a spot on the far side of the garden. One fawn spent much of the day in the little stream by the path, hidden from view by the deep grass. One of the naturalists decided this was not the place for it and lifted it out. It wandered off but the other fawn lay quietly all day beside a tree. That evening it was decided that the time had come to dismiss them. After all, it was necessary to protect the wildflowers too. About 5 :30 one of the naturalists opened the gate, carried out the only fawn he could find, and chased out the doe. The next morning she was back in. Again the naturalist opened the gate and chased out the mother, who ran across the parking lot. Her other fawn ran over to the far side of the garden so the naturalist put it over the fence. It promptly started off in the direction of the Government shops and the doe was later seen headed in this direction. By this time the doe must have realized that the wildflower garden was not the place for her. She did not enter again through the small hole in the gate as she had before. With the exception of this hole, which no one had believed big enough to admit a deer about to give birth to twins, the high fence around seems to be deer-proof. The mule deer is known to be an excellent jumper on occasions, but to our knowledge they have never entered here in that manner.

THE PRODIGAL'S PRAYER

By Hugh Peyton, Superintendent Coulee Dam National Recreation Area Take me back, 0 Mountains, Let your gods be mine again; I've felt the fangs of doubt In the muddled creeds of men. I've seen their spires spring From cities steeped in sin, And trodden pulseless pavements, And mingled with the din. I 've gazed on grand cathedrals That man has built to God, With aisles colored crimson Where feet of War have trod. I've felt mad oceans roll, Watched them curl and foam; Now I'm wander-weary-- 0 Mountains, take me home. 0, let your lone trails lure me From the fevered call of men; Blend me with your mysteries; Make me one with you again. Lead me through sylvan stillness To my cabin by the stream; Let me dream again at twilight When the golden embers gleam Let your vastness be my temple, And your ermine peaks the shrine All wrapped in wordless worship, And plumed with frosted pines. And let me ride your ranges' rim Whose moonlit marvels rise, Works of God there is no doubting Etched against the skies. Let me hear your winds at twilight, With their vesper voice sublime, As they brush the chords of space To the velvet dance of time. Let the sunsets tip my shrines With a glowing glaze of gold; Robe my soul in silken silence, Let me worship as of old. Take me back, 0 Mountains, Till my earthly trail is done, Then shroud me in the shadows Of the crimson setting sun. Encase in me in hush eternal, Bury me deep in sylvan gloom; Let a summit be my headstone, Let a canyon be my tomb.