December 1953

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOLUME XXXII • NUMBER 12 DECEMBER 1953

Yosemite Valley, winter —Ansel Adams

Courtesy of California Historical Society

THE WILLIS GUIDE

Linen covers and Pages 4 and 5 Reproduced from the original in Yosemite Museum

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE NATURALIST DIVISION AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

John C. Preston, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist D. H. Hubbard, Assoc. Park Naturalist N. B. Herkenham, Asst. Park Naturalist W. W. Bryant, Junior Park Naturalist

VOL. XXXII DECEMBER 1953 NO. 12 THE IRA J. WILLIS GUIDE TO THE GOLD MINES

Edited by Irene D. Paden (Concluded) EDITOR'S NOTE : This is the second half of the article that was begun in the November issue, being a reprint from the California Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. 32, No. 3, September 1953. It describes a remarkable handwritten little book that served to guide pioneers to California during the gold rush, including James Mason Hutchings—California publisher and early hotel keeper in Yosemite Valley. We are greatly indebted to the original publishers of the article, the California Historical Society, and to the author, Mrs. Irene Paden, for their kind permission to reproduce it in Yosemite Nature Notes.

III.

The thrifty Mormon people were The answer to the question why badly in need of money with which this small handwritten document to buy the supplies they could not was salable lies in the fact that it raise. Every talent, every bit of henhad no competition nor substitute. est work that could be converted into When the majority of the '49ers left available funds were utilized. The the well-beaten Oregon Trail to head heavy migration to California in 1849 for California, they had no guidewas a source of income, streaming book. Fremont's report of his 1843past their very doors. They raised 44 expedition, which many had used vegetables and peddled them far thus far, was useless, for Fremont out on the trail. They did the neceshad continued to Oregon and thence sary blacksmithing. They ran steady had come south into California. Clayand reliable ferries over the larger ton 's fine guide, by way of the trail rivers. They built tollbridges over lying north of the Platte River, some of the smaller ones. They stopped at Salt Lake City. Other pastured tired animals. Now, in Ira guides, such as Jefferson's and Willis' little guidebook they had Ware's, which were published in another commodity to sell. Even 1849, were not yet in general use. though the profits might be small, Travelers were at their wits' end for they evidently went at the project, reliable information. The pull was hammer and tongs. We know that strong to come west by way of the comforting civilization of the new Mormon city; but Hastings' Cutoff, which had heretofore been the only direct route thence to California, was justly dreaded by all. Willis' guidebook offered an acceptable solution. We know that more than one person did the copying, because one traveler complained that his partial copy was which had heretofore been the only poorly spelled. We know that they direct route thence to California, was were done hastily, for the cover of justly dreaded by all. Willis' guidethe Yosemite copy bears an uncorbook offered an acceptable solution. rected error. We even know that the

whole project was clone without tional light on the subject. One specsupervision from competent authoriulation was the possibility that ties, because errors in the addition Sarah Royce and Moorman bought appear. But, no matter how indifthe same guide, and that, as Moorferently executed, the little documan purchased it over twenty miles ments were a real contribution. out on Hastings ' Cutoff, it might be

for that route. One of Sarah Royce ' s How have students of western statements seemed to make this trails known that such a guidebook likely: ' we camped," she wrote, existed? Why, quite naturally, ""on the head branch of Mary 's River, through reading the daily journals and on Monday morning passed of individuals who used it. Several through a canon which brought us instances have come to their at to the River itself." Granted that tention. Lorenzo Sawyer mentions Bishop Creek (on the Fort Hall route) the Mormon Guide in his notation was considered the head branch of for June 25, 1850. William T. Coleman wrote, "We were provided with a Mormon guidebook, published by one who had become familiar with the overland routes during the Mexican War, and later by a trip to and from California." The word "published" seems poorly chosen, but Coleman probably meant Ira Willis' production. Mary's River, her party was unlikely man wrote, "We were provided to be well-informed on the subject. with a Mormon guidebook, published Furthermore, in passing through the by one who had become familiar canyon they were already on the with the overland routes during the river, and, upon emerging, met nothing larger than they had already seen. On the other hand, if Sarah Royce had traveled by way of Hastings' Cutoff, her party would emerge from the canyon of the South Fork onto the full fledged river. All of which sounds convincing, but it does not alter the fact that Sarah purchased the Ira Willis guidebook and evidently traveled by its guidance via the new route to the Fort Hall Road. She and her party could not fail to recognize the unimpressive creek which they met after emerging from Bishop Canyon, because it was plainly labeled "Mary's River" in the guide.

J. Goldsborough Bruff mentioned, on August 29, 1849, that he had purchased the latter portion of such a guide, and he proved to posterity that he had done so by copying it in his notes.

Sarah Royce used it. She wrote, "Our only guide from Salt Lake City consisted of two small sheets of note paper, sewed together, and bearing on the outside in writing the title, 'Best Guide to the Gold Mines, 816 miles, by Ira J. Willis, G.S.L. City.'"

Madison Moorman bought a "guide" in 1850. When the author of the present article edited his journal for the California Historical Society in 1948, the subject was discussed and speculated upon at some length in the notes. Actual knowledge of the wording of the Willis guidebook has clarified much of the speculation. Permission kindly given to quote briefly from the letters of Finley McDiarmid has shed additional light on the subject. One speculation was the possibility that Sarah Royce and Moorman bought the same guide, and that, as Moorman purchased it over twenty miles out on Hastings' Cutoff, it might be for that route. One of Sarah Royce's statements seemed to make this likely:

"We camped," she wrote, "on the head branch of Mary's River, and on Monday morning passed through a canon which brought us to the River itself." Granted that Bishop Creek (on the Fort Hall route) was considered the head branch of Mary's River, her party was unlikely to be well-informed on the subject. Furthermore, in passing through the canyon they were already on the river, and, upon emerging, met nothing larger than they had already to and from California. " The word seen. On the other hand, if Sarah "published" seems poorly chosen, Royce had traveled by way of Has but Coleman probably meant Ira tines' Cutoff, her party would emerge Willis' production. from the canyon of the South Fork J. Goldsborough Bruff mentioned, onto the full fledged river. All of J on August 29, 1849, that he had which sounds convincing, but it does purchased the latter portion of such not alter the fact that Sarah pur a guide, and he proved to posterity chased the Ira Willis guidebook and that he had done so by copying it evidently traveled by its guidance in his notes. via the new route to the Fort Hall Sarah Royce used it. She wrote, Road. She and her party could not ""Our only guide from Salt Lake City fail to recognize the unimpressive consisted of two small sheets of note creek which they met after emerging paper, sewed together, and bearing from Bishop Canyon, because it was on the outside in writing the title, plainly labeled "Mary 's River" in 'Best Guide to the Gold Mines, 816 the guide. miles, by Ira J. Willis, G.S.L. City.'" Moorman, on the other hand, gave Madison Moorman bought a no description of his "guide," but, at "guide" in 1850. When the author the end of the second day 's journey of the present article edited his jourout from Salt Lake City, he wrote, nal for the California Historical So- "We nooned upon a creek near to a ciety in 1948, the subject was dislone house where some men were cussed and speculated upon at some engaged in fitting some timbers for a length in the notes. Actual knowledge of the wording of the Willis guidebook has clarified much of the speculation. Permission kindly given to quote briefly from the letters of Finley McDiarmid has shed additional light on the subject. The guidebook helped clarify: they were to look carefully for the wheel marks of Chiles' wagon train, cutting across to the Carson River toward what is now Leetesville. In case they could not find them (or in case Chiles had changed his purpose and had not gone that way), the purchaser was to continue on the regular trail to the Truckee River and there pick up the tracks of the battalion members. Their trace connected the old trail up the Truckee with the new trail they had made along the Carson, probably leaving the old ones somewhere west of what is now Wadsworth, and striking the Carson a few miles east of Dayton. Thence up the Carson to the canyon of the West Carson, and so on across the Sierra Nevada to Hangtown, as previously outlined.

The route became at least as popular as the trail up the Truckee River, and, dividing the burden of the gold rush of '49 with the latter and with the Lassen Trail, brought its fair proportion of new citizens to California.

We purchased from edge of the wording of the Willis them an imperfect guide for our guidebook has clarified much of the road.... " In view of the fresh in speculation. Permission kindly given * formation given in McDiarmid 's letto quote briefly from the letters of ters, it now seems likely that MoorFinley McDiarmid has shed addiman 's guide was sold by the same *Acknowledgment is made to Mr. and Mrs. Leroy A. Reynolds of Alameda for this courtesy.

group of men as was McDiarmid 's, or map," it must be said that, gland that it may have been similar; though extremely crude, it does in which case it was indeed for the not appear to be erroneous, and the desert portion of Hastings' Cutoff. misinformation must have occurred McDiarmid, traveling about a by word of mouth, or, possibly, have week later than Moorman, wrote to been a tragic misunderstanding. his wife from the camp at the foot Thanks to Sarah Royce, students of Pilot Peak at the west edge of the knew what the title page of Willis ' Salt Desert. In the letter, he cornguidebook looked like. Thanks to plained that his party had been led Bruff, they knew how some of it was to believe that the distance from worded. It is a great thrill to see this water to water across the desert was old copy with its soiled cloth cover, much shorter than the actuality. made apparently from a man's linen "This false information," he wrote, handkerchief, and its tiny cramped "as to the precise distance across writing. It is like a ghost taken from the desert to grass and water was the middle of the last century and mostly given by a Mormon who was materialized in this. building a sawmill 25 to 30 miles this V. side of Salt Lake. He sold to the As to the terrain through which emigrants, who are generally too the little guide led its travelers, some ready to grab at any information or of it has been mentioned, unavoidreceive any man 's story, a chart or ably, in the previous paragraphs; map of the road over the desert, but, beginning at Salt Lake City, it marking the springs, feed, distance can be set down briefly : Ira Willis &, &. He sets the distance at 60 was merely reversing the route miles, whereas it is at least 90 if not which he had traveled in returning 100. I here send you a fact simile of from California, in order to make his map." the directions suitable for westbound In justice to the seller of the "chart emigrants From Nat painting in California State Library Sutter's Mill, Coloma, site of historic gold discovery that led to California gold rush.

From Salt Lake City, the route led Nevada, where they passed through north through what is now Ogden; Thousand Springs Valley—referred it crossed in succession Weber River, to as Hot Spring Valley. Thence to Bear River and the Malad, which the a branch of Humboldt River, which '49ers usually dubbed Mud Creek; they followed through a canyon, thence to Blue Springs, thence northcrossing it nine times. This was the erly to Hansel Springs. Deep Creek canyon which the battalion men had was crossed near modern Snowville explored on the way east, while and its short course followed until hunting for Chiles' route. It is one of near its sink. West to Pilot Springs the head branches of Humboldt and then Emigrant Spring, reached River and is now known as Bishop just at the foot of Raft River MounCreek Canyon. Then they followed tains. Thence northwesterly to Raft the Humboldt to its sink, and it was River. The guide seemingly refers to here that the purchasers of the guidethis stream as "Cajiers," although book were to look carefully for the the word (which appears twice) might wheel marks of Chiles ' wagon train, be otherwise interpreted. Henry Bigcutting across to the Carson River ler refers to it in his journal as Cashtoward what is now Leetesville. In ier Creek, and some of the many case they could not find them variations used by the westbound (or in case Chiles had changed his emigrants were Ca sus, Cassia, purpose and had not gone that way), Casua, and other more elaborate the purchaser was to continue on versions. An interesting conjecture the regular trail to the Truckee River is that the copyist may have used and there pick up the tracks of the the old form of "S," which looped battalion members. Their trace conbelow the line as does a "j. " Such an nected the old trail up the Truckee "S "" would be more correctly used with the new trail they had made as the second letter in "ss"; it is not along the Carson, probably leaving found elsewhere in the guide, but, the old ones somewhere west of what when a person was copying someis now Wadsworth, and striking the one else 's handwriting, it might easCarson a few miles east of Dayton. ily have occurred. Thence up the Carson to the canyon The new wagon road followed up of the West Carson, and so on the general course of Raft River some across the Sierra Nevada to Hangten miles, then left it and went past town, as previously outlined. the southern gateway of the City of The route became at least as popthe Rocks—a lush mountain meadular as the trail up the Truckee ow, studded with and surrounded River, and, dividing the burden of by huge pointed rocks. Two of these, the gold rush of '49 with the latter very prominent beside the trail, Bigand with the Lassen Trail, brought its ler had called the Twin Sisters, but fair proportion of new citizens to they appear on the guide as Steeple California. Rocks and are still known by that Ira Willis was in Lehi, Utah, in title. 1849, the year following his return Now the trail led west "over a hill" to his people. We know that he was ten miles to Goose Creek. This is married, and the fact of his death is something special in the line of unestablished among the records of derstatement, as many of the '49ers the Mormon Church as having occonsidered Granite Pass descent curred on December 5, 1863, from very bad indeed. The ascent of the accidental overturning of a Goose Creek took them south into wagon-load of wood. Following page: Complete transcript of the Willis Guide

Way Bill of distances, camping Best Guide place, rivers, hot springs etc on the Route from G. S. L. City to the Gold Mines. Miles. to the To Bear River, crossing the Weber 4 miles this side of Capt. Brown's

GOLD MINES

Roadometer Measure 84. E (Good camping at short distances`) Thence to Malad or Mud Creek 3. 816 miles the 1st Warm Spring 6. " 2nd do camping 14. " Spring in the Mts. good camping 12, by

down deep Creek cross at the Bend 6. b good camping 6.

IRA J. WILLIS

to Springs in the plains poor " 10. Cajiers [or Cajius] Creek, good camping of several places in sight and left 26. " up Cajiers [or Cajius] Creek, good camping 9. G. S. L. City 1 76. ( 2 ) (3) Thence to the Old Road near Thence over a hill through a kanyon the Steeple Rocks, 6. to where you strike Mary's River again 20. to Goose Creek over a hill 10. (good camping & good in the kanyon.')] Then to a pass in the hills where you 192. cross the River twice good camping Several camping places from the all along. 72. Steeple Rocks to Goose Creek " " The next crossing of Mary's River up Goose Creek, good camping 22. good camping all along 46. to the Hot Spring Valley 13. " over a drive without grass or water 14. " 2nd Spring (good camp [1] 5. " to the lower crossing of Mary's River through the Valley 32. (good camping pi 14. Found good camping places, " to the lower camping place on the none of them more than 10 miles apart River, grass scarce 26. to a Branch of Mary's River " to a Slough, poor camping grass scarce 15. good camping 8. " the Sink of Mary's River through a kanyon crossing grass & wood scarce 20. the Branch 9 times, camping 8. to Mary's River good camping 586. all along 19. The best water here is in a slough

that passes through a bend & a narrow Martins Fork of Mary's River Bluff. Here also you may find good camping all along 60. 359. (4) (5) a new track on your left that Chiles' Then to Red Lake or the foot of the dividing intended to make last fall which may be Ridge Calif. Mts. ll. nearer & a less distance to do without — grass & water. 749. By the Battalion route from the Sink good camping. nigh by. to the hot Springs, no grass, poor water 20. Then to Lake Valley, good camping 6. Thence to Truckie River, good camp. 25. " over the highest Ridge to Rock Valley, good camping 10. 622. " to the Leek Springs, good camping [Should be 631] & good by by '.ri g ] the way 13. The road forks here. " " Como Creek, poor camping 10. You will take the left hand road " down the ridge & then you arrive to Salmon Trout river, good camp, 25. into a valley two miles, on your left (Childs road if made comes in Grass plenty. 16. at this or the next camping place') I " to Pleasant Valley, note minus 12. Then turn to the right and cross a bend, good camping 15. 816. up the River good camp, 8. " " Sutters 55. cross a hill to the river, good " 12. to Pass Creek Kanyon, good 862. camping every few miles 42. (Should be 871 through Pass Creek Kanyon 5. (]Truckee & Salmon Trout are error the same river but Mary, Ogden & 738. Humboldt are.)

"WHAT HAPPENED TO YOSEMITE FALLS?"

By Henry G. Weston, Jr., Ranger Naturalist End-of-the-season visitors often confront the ranger naturalist disappointedly, asking the question "Where is Yosemite Falls? " or "What happened to Yosemite Falls? " The falls are, without doubt, one of the features most responsible for the universal fame of Yosemite Valley. They have been described in paintings, photographs, and writings as well as in spoken words by innumerable admirers. It comes, then, as a disappointment to many travelers when they realize that due to seasonal changes in amounts of water in streams of the Sierra Nevada, Yosemite Falls like all the others in the park--present a varying aspect at different times of the year. As the summer season progresses and the melt water from the preceding winter's snowpack dwindles, the volume and force of Yosemite Creek Ansel Adams Yosemite Falls become appreciably less. Very little rain comes during the summer to sustain the flow. The appearance of Yosemite Falls changes accordingly, and by late August the creek and the falls are reduced to a mere trickle, barely discernible as it descends the steep face of the valley wall. Usually, even this trickle dries up, leaving a bare, water-stained cliff to greet the visitor. The drying-up dates of the spectacular 2,425-foot-high series of falls have been recorded for a number of years by the naturalist staff of the Yosemite Museum. Beginning with 1947, these dates are as follows: Year Date flow stopped 1947 August 19 1948 August 21 1949 August 16 1950 August 18 1951 August 15 1952 Some all summer, essentially dry October 1 1953 Some all summer, essentially dry September 15 The gradual diminishing of Yosemite Falls from its springtime splendor of free-leaping, matchless beauty to its final thin, wavering "damp streak" occurs every year. As in the plant and animal world, summer takes its annual toll of waterfalls. For those guests, then, whose particular attraction to Yosemite Valley is the prospect of viewing the world-famous Yosemite Falls, we can only urge that they time their visits in late spring, so as to fully enjoy the peak of the display as the falls cascade and catapult in a mighty leaping plunge down the side of the cliff. Whatever the season, though, many other features— if not waterfalls — that comprise Yosemite's year-long charm make any visit a rewarding one.

INDIAN GRAVESITES OF THE YOSEMITE CEMETERY

By Richard R. Jackson, Ranger Naturalist Past visitors at the Indian circle in sources, including interviews with the Yosemite Museum wildflower Indians now living in Yosemite. garden will recall many interesting Nine of the grave markers are experiences talking with some of the redwood boards that have been old Yosemite Indians. Today the placed in recent times, while the park visitor will find it difficult to see tenth is simply a granite boulder. or hear phases of their early-day The following accounts are headed customs, for the aged descendants by inscriptions exactly as they apof the original inhabitants of this pear on the 10 markers: area are disappearing. Along with

SALLY ANN

their passing, it seems that their

CASTAGNETTO

much-enjoyed folkways also are

DIED

vanishing.

APRIL 10

Ta-bu-ce (Maggie Howard) and 1932 Chief Lee-mee (Chris Brown) will

YOSEMITE

long be remembered for their contriSally Ann Dick Castagnetto was butions to the continuance of Yoa fullblood Yosemite Indian. Her semite Indian lore. Ta-bu-ce died 7 father was Indian Dick, and her years ago next month, and as of mother was May Dick. Sally Ann this year Chief Lee-mee finds it no was considered to be one of the longer possible to perform his dancmost beautiful of Yosemite Indians. ing. We are fortunate in having Lucy She was full of life and very talkaTelles, some seventy years of age, tive. Her first husband was one of still coming to the Indian circle the early miners by the name of whenever her health will permit. Stegman. After he died she married Because of the enduring interest Johnny Brown. The name Castagon the part of travelers to the park, netto is connected in some way with and the loss of many of the old Ina man whom Sally Ann took care dians, I felt that a supplement to of while he was very ill, then living Mrs. H. J. Taylor's chapter on in Coulterville. Castagnetto had a "Cemetery in Yosemite Valley" vegetable garden near El Portal, and from Yosemite Indians and Other sold vegetables to the people in Sketches might be of some value for Yosemite Valley. He became sick a continued source of knowledge in and moved to Coulterville where regard to these native residents. Sally Ann was nurse to him. Mrs. Taylor has a wealth of informaMOTHER tion on the establishment of the

cemetery area, and important facts

LUCY

about most of the white people buried

PART

there, but few data are available

YOSEMITE

for our use pertaining to the Indian Very little knowledge seems to graves. The remaining portions of have been retained about the this article, therefore, will offer colmother of Indian Lucy Brown, Early lected bits of information on the 10 photographs of this lady show that Indian gravesites in the Yosemite she must have been extremely old Cemetery, gathered from many at the time of her death.

Herkenham Section of Yosemite Cemetery with Indian graves.

MAY GRANDMOTHER TOM OF AGED 14 LUCY TELLES PIUTE

Suzie Sam, Lucy Telles ' grandMay Tom was the young niece of mother, was a Yosemite Indian, born Ta-bu-ce (Maggie Howard). It is said in Yosemite Valley. Her husband that May was killed by a tree that was Captain Sam. Old Captain fell on her while she was hiking on Sam was employed by Camp Curry the Yosemite Falls Trail with Taand the Sentinel Hotel to supply bu-ce. The tree also hit Ta-bu-ce and them with fish. Many of the early broke her leg, which never did heal Indians were well versed in their properly, so that she walked with a abilities to catch trout, but they slight limp the rest of her life. would not reveal the methods that made them so successful. Lucy

MAY

Telles' grandmother died in the

DICK

month of August, about 1904.

YOSEMITE

May Dick, the mother of Sally

LUCY

Ann Dick Castagnetto, was a fullDIED blood Yosemite Indian. Her husband 1920 was often called Indian Dick, though

PART

it is thought that his real first

YOSEMITE

name was Charlie. Indian Dick Lucy Brown, or Indian Lucy, said worked for many of the early setto be nearly 120 at the time of her tiers in Yosemite Valley by providdeath, was one of the last of the ing wood. He was one of the first original Indians who had been found woodcutters to use a power saw in in Yosemite Valley at the time of its this area, thereby outdoing all of his discovery by white men in 1851. rivals in that business. She was the oldest of six genera-

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tions of the Brown family, many of He was married first to Sally Ann whom have lived most of their lives Dick. His second wife was Lena in Yosemite. Her grave is beside Brown, and they had four children-that of her husband, Bill Brown. She Chris, Virgil, Alves, and Hazel. Chris

was the cousin of Maria Lebrado, Brown (Chief Lee-mee) was named who was the last survivor of the original Yosemites. The date of after the very popular early Yosemite artist, Chris Jorgensen. One Lucy's death has been recorded in of the last Indian burial ceremonies several other documents to be in of Yosemite Valley took place dur1924. ing Johnny Brown's funeral. Chris

BILL

Brown and Lizzie, last surviving

BROWN

Nutchu, performed the Indian rites

DIED

at the burial. 1899

PETE YOSEMITE HILLIARD

Bill Brown, or Mono Tom Brown, 1870 1934 was the husband of Indian Lucy, father of Johnny, and grandfather of Chris Brown. He was one of the first Indians to be buried in the Yosemite Cemetery area.

Pete Hilliard was born in El Capitan Meadow in Yosemite Valley. He was part Yosemite and was thought to have a small amount of Chinese blood. He was very intelligent and

LANCISCO

did such work as surveying. With

WILSON

Francisco Georgely he surveyed

DIED

Bridgeport Tom's place near Bloody 1885 Canyon when the latter first entered

PIUTE

that region for farming. Pete lived most of his life in Yosemite Valley Lancisco was the father of Johnny working for the Government. His Wilson. Lancisco's Indian name was sister, Louisa Westfall Hilliard, died Tu-tok-a-nu-la, meaning El Capitan. last year, nearing 100 years of age. He was one of the old chiefs of the Yosemites, aged approximately 115 There is considerably more factual years at the time of his death. material to be gleaned about the old Yosemite Indians. Only time

JOHNNY

and patience are required to collect

BROWN

and coordinate it. Many of the Indians and white old-timers still living are intensely interested in having this information recorded, so the task is a pleasant and stimulating one.

JOHNNY BROWN DIED 1934 YOSEMITE

Johnny Brown was born about 1860 at Rancheria Flat near El Portal.