July 1949

YOSEMITE

Nature Notes Vol. XXVIII July, 1949 No. 7

Ahwahnee Meadow Half Dome in the distance. Photo by Anderson. Cover Photo : View down Yosemite Valley from Taft Point — El Capitan in distance, By Ansel Adams from "Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada," text by John Muir, 64 photographs by Ansel Adams. Reproduced by kind permission of Houghton Mifflin Company.

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE NATURALIST DIVISION AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

P. Russell, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist F. C. Parker, Assoc. Park Naturalist R. N. McIntyre, Asst. Park Naturalist

VOL. XXVIII JULY, 1949 NO. 7 HAS PROTECTION WORKED DESTRUCTION?

By Harry C. Parker, Associate Park Naturalist Editor's Note : This article, offering some thought stimulated by Mr. Ernst's story of the "Vanishing Meadows in Yosemite Valley," published in the May issue, likewise does not constitute an official statement from the staff of Yosemite National Park. In his article on the vanishing sumably to be kept in as nearly meadows in the Valley, Mr. Ernst their natural state as possible and has drawn attention to the decrease handed down to oncoming generaof the open lands therein from 750 tions with as little impairment of acres in 1866 to 327 acres in 1937, natural values as is consistent with and infers that this is a "problem public use? wrought through the activities of In the same article cited above. well-intentioned but ill-advised conDr. Russell further states that an imservationists." He further cites variportant value of each area in the ous "old timers" who knew the ValNational Park System is to be found ley in the very early days and who in the capacity of the areas to serve made unfavorable comparisons with as great, natural repositories of sci- The conditions of the scenery as scientific and historic treasures. And, found two or three decades later. He later, "The areas constitute useful cites an illustration of the obliteration 'check plots' for comparison with by trees of a view of Bridalveil Fall other wild areas which are not so as an example of the "loss of numerous sublime views of the falls, the carefully protected." These are all matters of recorded National Park cliffs and broad, open park-like Policy and the preservation of great vistas stretching on through the natural areas is accepted as one of Valley." the prime purposes of the National This article brings to mind Dr. Park System. They certainly admit Russell 's statement, "The fairly simof only the necessary minimum of ple task of setting aside representaartificial management, for purposes live bits of wild country as visualized of administration and for proper pubby early national park proponents is lic use. now a complex undertaking in land management that must be coordinated with the whole structure of government and fitted into the economic framework of the nation. But when it comes to altering the scenery, who is to set the standard by which the scenic values of Yosemite Valley shall be "managed"? In Mr. Ernst's discussion, we have Where should we start and where numerous quotations from early should we stop in the artificial mantravelers and residents as to what agement of areas that are by manthey thought of the matter. date of the people's Congress preHowever, these people had a con1. Yosemite Nature Notes, Vol. XXV, No. 10, October, 1946.

temporary who has not as yet enThis opinion, together with those tered the picture, Frederick Law cited by Mr. Ernst, gives an indicaOlmsted, Sr., the first administrative tion of how varied can be the fundaofficer of the area when it was set mental tastes which would govern aside as a public reservation and the criteria by which a "managegiven in trust to the State of Caliment" program might be set up. We fornia.2 He is credited with being the can go further. There are foresters "father" of the profession of landwho tell us that here in the Valley scape architecture in America, and the ponderosa pine reaches its greathad, even at that early date (1864), est development, that here we have achieved a position of eminence. He one of the few places where the had a profound understanding of the ponderosa pine and Jeffrey pine basic principles of land management overlap in their ranges. To them, for public welfare, as a result of this may be the most significant wide travels and years of practical value, not meadows. There are geolexperience along those lines. ogists who state that we have no Olmsted left the position of Chair need to fear the destruction of the man of the first Yosemite Commis real values of the Valley by human sion in 1867. In 1890, with 23 years use, so long as Half Dome and the of perspective, he made this state other major geological features are went concerning the true public unmolested. How should the "manvalues of Yosemite Valley.3 ager of scenery" deal with all these factors? "A systematic removal of all the young On countless occasions I have trees of the Valley would be equivalent to the destruction in the course of time, of just what the State of California stands voluntarily pledged to 'hold, inalienably, for all time:4 That is to say, the distinctive charm of the scenery of the Yosemite does not depend, as shown visitors the first comprehensive picture of Yosemite Valley, drawn by Ayres in 1855, on display in the History Room of the Yosemite Museum. This view clearly portrays the open character of the Valley floor in the discovery era and I have pointed out to the visitors that, largely due to protection, the forests have scenery of the Yosemite does not depend, as in the History Room of the Yosemite it is a vulgar blunder to suppose, on the Museum. This view clearly portrays greatness of its walls and the length of its the open character of the Valley little early summer cascades; the height of certain of its trees, the reflections in its pools, floor in the discovery era and I have and such other matters as can be entered in pointed out to the visitors that, largestatistical tables, pointed out by guides and ly due to protection, the forests have represented within picture frames. So far, perhaps, as can be told in a few words, it increased to a great degree. This lies in the rare association with the grandeur was done merely as a matter of disof beautifully disposed great bodies, groups and clusters of trees I felt the charm of pensing factual information, than the Yosemite much more at the end of a with the intention of directing their week than at the end of a day, much more thinking. I have never after six weeks when the cascades were nearly dry, than after one week, and when, after murmur of complaint, but rather an having been in it, off and on, several months, expression of appreciation for the I was going out, I said, 'I have not yet half presence of the forests today. taken it in.'... Even men of unusually happy endowment and education, who have not Before the War, it was my pleasalso, the results of considerable working experience, can rarely have much forecasting ure to guide a number of auto cararealization of the manner in which charm of vans about the Valley, naming and scenery is to be affected by such operations pointing out the chief features. Never as commonly pass under the name of 'improvements '." did I hear a complaint that the vis2. Yosemite Nature Notes, Vol. XXV, No. 9, September, 1946. 3. Governmental Preservation of Natural Scenery. Privately printed at Brookline, Mass., March 8, 1890. 4. At the time of Olmsted's statement, Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove were under the jurisdiction of the State.

itor couldn't see the scenery for the Hetch Hetchy and watch the visitors. The trees. At Wawona Tunnel View, I long, monotonous expanse of grandid often hear expressed admiration itic walls seldom holds the attenfor the way in which the forest hides tion long, even when the beautiful so effectively the works of man, infalls are running, and soon the avercluding a summer daily average of age visitor is leaning over the dam 8,000 campers, so that one can get looking at the concrete, or watching the feeling of complete wilderness the spillways. Here is a Yosemite beauty and the grandeur of the without trees! Or one should take a handiwork of God. This same point trip into some of the canyons in the is brought out effectively in Mr. northwest part of the park, where he Ernst's illustration of the view from can travel for miles with few or no near Union Point (his Figure 4). It trees. Unconsciously, he soon finds can be emphasized even more himself seeking relief from the samestrongly, if one will watch at night ness and wishing for some shade. for the myriad lights which show The granite walls do not hold the just how much is hidden by the trees. eye for long. Repetition soon palls On these same auto caravans I and "familiarity breeds contempt," have heard many an expression of or at least apathy. gratitude for the coolness provided In photographing the scenery, by the same stretch of forest which why does the photographer seek is decried by Mr. Ernst for having something to "frame" his view? If obscured a view of Bridalveil Fall the vast, sheer granite expanse of near Black's Spring. Just around the the Valley walls is aesthetically so corner lies Valley View, which gives valuable, why not make the expos an incomparable look at the fall and ure without the embellishment of its relationship to the surrounding anything extraneous. As for contact scene. experience, so long as we have the talus slopes with their comparatively Yes, one can still find "numerous sterile growing conditions, the vissublime views," as witness in "A itor who desires may climb right to Self-guiding Auto Tour of Yosemite the walls, touch the stone, and gaze Valley" 5 which is illustrated with skyward to his heart's content. modern photographs of points of in Finally, from my experience in terest and sublime beauty. There are ample vistas from which the major Pate Valley, the upper Merced drainfeatures may be seen, admired and age and similar spots I have found appreciated, some of these a herit that one gains the best apprecia - age from State Park days and which tion of the wonderful walls by get

are now preserved because of his ting up high and not from the floors toric precedent. Further, so long as of the valley they enclose. Some we have a river in the Valley, there of Mr. Ernst's illustrations, though will be open places from which to not used for this purpose, demonview major features. strate this admirably. In winter, there are now about Since others have expressed their 100,000 visitors to Yosemite Valley. opinion of scenic values, I should After a snowstorm it is the snowlike to give mine. To see what clearclad branches of the trees, with the ing the Valley would do for the pattern varying according to species, scenery, one should go to Hetch that brings forth the oft-heard phrase, 5. Yosemite Nature Notes. Vol. XXI, January, 1942.

"veritable fairyland. " While the seedlings of trees are not present in etched patterns of the snow and ice appreciable numbers. on the walls of Cathedral Rocks and Has protection worked destrucsimilar spots excite admiration and tion? My answer is that it has wonder, it is the overall effect of the worked destruction to parts of a few lacy pattern formed by white en meadows, valued mainly by the crusted branches of the deciduous "old timers " for pasturage, but it has trees and the statuesque beauty of likewise immeasurably enhanced the blanketed pine boughs that the spiritual values of the Valley and made it possible for us to receive really move the visitor to an apprethree-quarters of a million visitors a ciation of the marvellous change of year with the minimum of scars to scene wrought by a winter storm in the natural charm of the scene as the Valley; and, when he thinks of viewed from above. At the same it, an expression of gratitude to his time it has made their stay for more Government for having preserved pleasant in providing shelter for all of this for him. campers and a cool relief from the One notes that it was more than summer's heat as one travels about fifty years ago that Galen Clark enjoying the wonderful vistas, towering walls and majestic domes. It made his plaint that all the open has also indubitably contributed, meadow ground was being covered, through the protection of trees, to the yet we still have meadows, some of superior beauty of Yosemite Valley them knee deep in water in summerwhen the snow decked branches time, thereby inhibiting tree growth, transform the scene to one of glorious and around the margins of which splendor.

GLACIER POINT IN WINTER

By Dorothy R. Mayer Editor's Note: Mr. and Mrs. George L. Mayer spent the winter of 1948-1949 alone at Glacier Point in charge of the hotel properties at that place.

OUR PACK RAT FRIENDS

When we took over the care of the Mountain House in December, we were introduced to a pair of pack rats who shared the living room and were already quite tame. They lived under the counter behind the steam trays and had a beautiful nest built of slices of stale bread. We were warned to hide anything we did not want to lose; and sure enough, every morning we would discover a neat pile of spoons, spectacles, rolls of film, scissors, fact anything movable. They even carried large brushes which made a wonderful clatter as they dragged them through awkward spaces. They seemed to enjoy making a noise to attract attention—suddenly jumping on anything that would rattle, or chasing each other along the counter at lightning speed. Later they had a peculiar habit of scratching the hollow wall of the counter with their front feet at approximately the same time every evening, and especially if there was any loud conversation. It seemed to excite them and they would become unusually active and bold, often sitting on the table beside us pretending to eat an old dried-up apple, which was usually ignored, and all 1. Gray Bushy-tailed Wood Rat Neotoma c. cinerea Ord.

the while, keeping their sharp, beady eyes on our every movement—then suddenly without warning, dart across the floor under our feet. I 'm sure out of sheer mischief. These little animals were so tame they would take food from our hands and ask to go out into the kitchen by gnawing at the corner of the door, then waiting while we opened it for them. They had been in the habit of eating in the kitchen, and one of them was just recovering from severe foot burns, having inadvertently run across the hot stove. We thought it might be simpler to feed them near their nest in the living room rather than have them at large, selecting their own food, so every night we placed a plate of assorted scraps on the counter for them. They seemed to be satisfied with this new arrangement, for the plate was always cleaned and they no longer tried to go to the kitchen. Furthermore, evidently feeling that since the food was donated and not stolen, it was no longer necessary to leave any trade. From then on, nothing was ever disturbed in the room though they still loved to tote large objects, such as brushes, for the sake of the noise they made. This was sheer exhibitionism. When angry at each other, the rats made a loud thumping noise, with their tail apparently. One evening they had quite a battle for we heard a terrifying scream or squeal—the only time we ever heard them utter a sound. We were unable to see what was going on. It took place under the counter, but the battle lasted quite some time and we fully expected to see one of them thoroughly mangled. They never seemed to play any more together or even live together, though they apparently were unhurt. Their activities were not confined to the living room. They had a way of getting up through the walls and running between the floors, and could even go outside over the upstairs balcony. Bits of wood were packed in and left up there to rattle around over our heads at night. They could come down into the hot water heater cupboard, and if the door was open, get into the kitchen. One night they made a raid on the kitchen and carried off a whole tray of corn muffins which they dearly loved. They apparently have auxiliary quarters right over our heads in the bedroom where they keep a choice collection of rocks and heavy iron objects for the express purpose of bouncing and rolling them, a sort of bowling alley between the rafters. I'm sure this is done for our special benefit as they sleep all day and only become active in these quarters at night and when we are trying to sleep. They seem to have a definite sense of humor and mischief, very much like the squirrels which they resemble more than the rats-except for the large ears. Their fur is light brown and white underparts, quite thick of body and a fluffy tail, more like a ground squirrel. Large bright button eyes and tiny neat white "hands"—a very attractive little animal. So far there has been no family and perhaps we made a mistake in

their sex when we named them was ever disturbed after we started "Herman and Min." feeding them, despite the fact that The most curious thing to my mind this collecting or trading is one of is how these little wild creatures their most characteristic habits. At adapted their habits to ours in our first we were kept busy replacing obwinter of shared existence. They jects which were purloined and slept under the counter all day stacked for us on the floor a whimsignoring our activities all around ical collection, never twice the same. them, awakening at night, accepting the food we offered them. Nothing was ever destroyed, not being curious as to the contents of strange looking packages apparently. Strangest of all, though there were countless small objects left about in the room, shelves of all the summer stock of cosmetics, candy, films, cigarettes, silverware, etc., nothing They accepted their free board and room as naturally as any domestic animal, obviously showing their appreciation by causing as little disturbance as possible.

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO

(No. 5) By Carl P. Russell, Park Superintendent In a previous article (Yosemite Nature Notes, April, 1949) an account was given of the success of Ansel F. Hall in arousing the interest of the American Association of Museums in the museum needs of Yosemite National Park. As a result of representations made by Mr. C. J. Hamlin of the Association, Rockefeller support was obtained for the project and on July 15, 1924, Superintendent W. B. Lewis received the following telegram from Arthur E. Demaray of Museums and made responsible for the handling of the Yosemite Museum construction project. Mr. Herbert Maier who had done the architectural work for the proposed building was employed as his assistant. These men established themselves in Berkeley anticipating the recognition of a field headquarters for the administration of museum and interpretive programs in all western National Park Service areas. The present writer was already on Demaray of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C. : Yosemite National Park. In time there came to Yosemite "Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial apthe Dr. H. C. Bumpus referred to in propriated July eleventh, seventy-five thousand five hundred dollars for construction, Arthur Demaray ' s original message equipment, and maintenance for period of regarding the gift of the Laura Spelthree years of museum building; fifty thousand Rockefeller Memorial. He for building, ten thousand for equipman ment and furnishing, ten thousand five hundred for personnel for three years, and five thousand for expenses of committee on museums. Committee will send Dr. H. C. Bumpus to park to study range of exhibits." He proved to be a veritable bundle of energy and snappy administrative judgment — professional attainments which were nicely tempered with Mr. Hall was designated Executive sympathy for the local workers in Agent for the American Association their adversities and by an abound-

H. C. Bumpus—N.P.S. Photo. ing interest in the job of telling the story of a great national park through the medium of a "focal-point museum"—a designation which he coined while on the Yosemite job) As chairman of a committee appointed within the American Association of Museums, Dr. Bumpus shaped the broad plan for the Yosemite Museum construction project and gave general supervision to curatorial work. One of his first suggestions had to do with the planning and construction of the Glacier Point Lookout, an outpost of the Yosemite Museum which today still functions as naturalist headquarters at Glacier Point. Of this branch museum Ansel Hall writes : 2 "My first activity upon returning to Yosemite National Park in August 1924 was to plan and erect a small building at Glacier Point which would be an outpost of the Yosemite Museum and would serve as a lookout station. It was at first intended that the cost of this building be regarded as a part of the total cost of the Yosemite Museum building. Fifty thousand dollars was appropriated by the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial for this latter purpose. When it became necessary to sign a contract for this entire amount to be devoted solely to the Yosemite Museum, the Yosemite Museum Association took over the Glacier Point Lookout project. The following summary indicates the source of donations. Yosemite Museum Association $ 990.78 Yosemite National Park Co 794.50 American Association of Museums... 270.50 National Park Service 143.18 Horseshoe Stage Route 6.60 $2,205.56 The total cost of the building is $1,543.56. The equipment to date consists of one splendid Zeiss Binocular Telescope costing $662.00." Mr. Maier designed the little structure and personally handled the rock work and the general construction problem on this, the first "Branch Museum" in the National Park System. For twenty-five years the Glacier Point Lookout has served the multitudes of people who have visited this famed vantage point. The building serves as the headquarters for interpretive personnel at Glacier Point and truly important work is done there in explaining the significance of the vast scene of the Merced Canyon and the spectacular summit country which unfolds to 1. Some account of the role played by Dr. Bumpus in planning the content of the Yosemite Museum and certain others among National Park Service museums is given in

YOSEMITE

NATURE NOTES, March 1928, pp. 20-23, and Dec. 1943, pp. 97-101. 2. "Report to Members and Trustees of the Yosemite Museum Association" by Ansel F. Hall, typed Ms. 6 pp., March 5, 1925. (In Yosemite National Park files.) For an account of the opening of the Glacier Point Lookout see Yosemite Nature Notes, July 14, 1925, pp. 54-55.

the spectator. The exceedingly modest outlay of costs as presented above does not in any way suggest the importance of this effective interpretive device. Through years of heavy use the big Zeiss binoculars have worn out. The instrument now reposes in the storeroom of the Yosemite Museum awaiting the day when funds can be spared with which to make essential repairs. Exhibits, however, have improved through the years.

Under the initiative of Park Naturalist Brockman, an excellent though small installation of exhibits was planned and prepared by the local park staff for the Glacier Point Lookout affording a self-operating interpretive service which is highly pleasing to the visitor who wishes to have a synopsis of the geology which lies behind the magnificent scene of mountain top, snow field, cirque, and abyss. The intimate relationship between the man-made devices and the soul-stirring display provided by Nature makes of this museum an exhibit-in-place. Here, actually, is the pioneer endeavor of the National Park Service to espouse the ideal of the "Museum of the Out-of-Doors."

"...striking examples of Nature's handicraft. To lead these people away from direct contact with Nature is contrary to the spirit of this enterprise. The real museum is outside the walls of the building and the purpose of the museum work is to render the out-of-doors intelligible. It is out of this conception that a smaller specialized museum, the trailside museum, takes its origin. The primary purpose of the trailside museum is to provide means that will enable the visitor on his arrival at a point of vantage to derive a moderate, if not a maximum amount of benefit. It is an 'insulation remover' and provides a hookup between an object, or spectacle, charged with dynamic information and a mind receptive to informational impulses."

At the Glacier Point Lookout Dr. Bumpus practiced what he preached. In that charming but most unpretentious little building perched more than 3,000 feet directly above the Valley below was initiated a philosophy and a method which distinguish the educational work in all of the 174 areas of the National Park System. From such small acorns can great oaks grow. Theories have become practices in the years which have elapsed since the experimenting was done at the Glacier Point Lookout. More than a hundred small museums in national parks and national monuments now provide "hookups" of the kind contrived in the minds of Dr. Bumpus and his associates in 1924.

A discerning analysis of National Park Service Museum objectives was written by Dr. Bumpus at the beginning of his activity on the Yosemite project. He stated:

"The controlling fact governing the development of educational work in the national A discerning analysis of National Park Service Museum objectives was written by Dr. Bumpus at the beginning of his activity on the Yosemite project. He stated: "The controlling fact governing the development of educational work in the national parks is that within these reservations multitudes are brought directly in contact with 3. Hermon Carey Bumpus, Yankee Naturalist, by H. C. Bumpus, Jr., University of Minnesota Press, 1947, p. 104.

INCONSIDERATE BABY

One day early in June, Kit Parker stepped out of her house to check on daughter Betsy, age 14 months, who was having a sun bath in the side yard. Just then she heard a man on the nearby street exclaim to his companion, "That darned baby scared away our bear!" (H.C.P.)

Glacier Point Lookout—Half Dome and Clouds Rest in the distance. Photo by Anderson.

Digitized by Yosemite Online Library Dan Anderson