April 1949

YOSEMITE

Nature Vol. XXVIII April, 1949 No. 4

THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE NATURALIST DIVISION AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION, INC.

C. P. Russell, Superintendent D. E. McHenry, Park Naturalist H. C. Parker, Assoc. Park Naturalist R. N. McIntyre, Asst. Park Naturalist

VOL. XXVIII APRIL, 1949 NO. 4 AN OVERLOOKED FACET OF YOSEMITE HISTORY

By Emil F. Ernst, Park Forester Practically overlooked in historical Base Line." The line carried on eaststudies and writings of Yosemite northward through the park is approximately mately 5 miles south of this important survey line. One of these Park have been the land surveys of this great area. One of these tant survey line. surveys covered portions of the park Von Schmidt actually carried out where the white man had not prethe survey, a remarkable one for viously penetrated. This survey, the elapsed time in such rough country, A. W. Von Schmidt survey of 1855, for corners fully meeting the decrossed the tracks of the only two scriptions as recorded in the field Known previous parties, the Walker notes have been found in the field expedition of 1833 and the Mariposa within the past twenty years. Six of Battalion trek to Tenaya Lake in purthese corners were involved in the suit of Chief Tenaya and his band of Carl Inn addition to the park and at troublesome Indians. least three of these have been seen It then appears that the A. W. Von by the park forester. A peculiar feaSchmidt survey party of 1855 was ture of Von Schmidt 's survey is the the third organized party to traverse uncommon regularity of trees at the lands in the present park. A contract precise point for a corner or quarter to survey the Mount Diablo Base corner location. Another of Von Line eastward over the Sierra NeSchmidt's corners, which have been vada Mountains from a point prefound conforming to the field notes, is viously established by a Colonel the southeast corner of the Aspen Norris north and east of Oakdale Valley private lands, at least three was awarded to A. W. Von Schmidt more of the corners have been found on May 30, 1855. According to his in the Porcupine Flat area, almost certified field notes he completed the the geographical center of the park. first portion of his contract, the Mount S. A. Hanson, in his field notes for Diablo Base line portion, on July 7, surveys made in 1883 south and east 1855, at a point south and east of of Tenaya Lake, reports finding and Mono Lake. destroying, in accordance with inAlthough the contract, as far as instructions, corners established by known, called for a survey of the Von Schmidt 18 years previously. Mount Diablo Base Line, the survey Von Schmidt ' s party proceeded as carried out on the park lands of eastward through the present park on today did not touch the Base Line at a line passing through points approxany point. The field notes carry the imately one-half mile north of Carl notation "Offset of Mount Diablo Inn, one-half mile south of Aspen Cover Photo : Dogwood near Pohono Bridge, May, 1938. By Ralph H. Anderson.

Valley Lodge, a half mile south of Von Schmidt may have been caused the present Tioga Road crossing of by encountering the Tuolumne CanYosemite Creek, a half mile north yon west of the park line. The party of the present Tioga Road crossing of must have camped at whatever point Porcupine Creek, a mile south of the approaching night found them. Tenaya Lake, through Tuolumne Reference is made to deep snow in Pass and north of Fletcher Lake, just the vicinity of Evelyn Lake which is south of Evelyn Lake, and then not surprising for apparently the dropped into the Lyell Fork of the party crossed this point late in June Tuolumne about a mile south of and oftentimes snows are persistent Potter Point. Twice Von Schmidt here until well into July. made wrong guesses on streams, Recently a photostatic copy of the calling one branch of the Merced 1855 Von Schmidt survey contract River and one branch of the Tuohas been received from The National lumne River branches of the San Archives. The question why Von Joaquin River. The party apparently Schmidt and his party ran across the had difficulty getting up eastward park lands not on the Base Line itover Kuna Crest. for the offsets beself but on a line averaging a paralcome numerous. It also appears that lel 5 miles south of the Base Line is the party passed about a quarter of answered. The first of the survey a mile south of Helen Lake on Kuna contract instructions read as follows: Crest and then turned north to skirt "1st, run, measure and mark, all the the east shore of this same lake. Von lines necessary to extend the Mount Schmidt described it as a fine lake Diablo Base Line from its present with water as cold as ice. Our copies termination at the end of the third of the Von Schmidt field notes in the mile in Range Eleven East, to a point Yosemite area end just west of near the State line and not beyond Parker Pass on the eastern boundary Range thirty, East." All that Von of the park. The Base Line portion of Schmidt had to do was to establish the survey continued on eastward to a point on the Mt. Diablo Base Line finally end on July 7, 1855, south and somewhere near the California state east of Mono Lake. line and approximately 180 miles The Von Schmidt party must have east of the initial point on Mt. been a very well organized one for Diablo. How he arrived at this point it covered at least 120 miles of surwas left to his discretion and the difveyed line in less than eight weeks ficulties that he would encounter. from the date of the contract. This The fact that very little was known at line crossed some very rough mounthe time of the full nature of the tainous country including the summit Sierra Nevada, particularly the sumof the Sierra Nevada with elevations mits in the Yosemite region should varying thousands of feet in less be taken into consideration. It was than a mile many times in relatively very well known, however, that the short distances. Numerous offsets Yosemite summits were high and had to be made to get around imrugged because probings of the passable cliffs. Had Von Schmidt Sierra Nevada system by the emisurveyed the Base Line itself the grant and gold seeking parties that fast time shown by his party would had been coming into the state since have been impossible. West of the 1846 had found the lower and more park long portions of the Base Line practical passes far to the north and are in the canyon of the Tuolumne to the south. Therefore Von Schmidt River and the offset line followed by naturally followed the line of least

resistance since he was not obligated The only known signs of man, red to remain right on the easterly proor white, existing in the central part longation of the Base Line from the of the park at that time were the two point to which it had been previously branches of the Mono trail which surveyed. On the average, as far as came together in Tuolumne Meadows. the lands traversed in the park are The Von Schmidt party crossed the concerned. Von Schmidt picked as northern branch near Porcupine easy a line route as it is possible to Flat and the southern branch in to even with more knowledge of the Long Meadow. areas than Von Schmidt could have The Von Schmidt party was made had at the time. Was it luck or just up as follows : A. W. Von Schmidt, ability on the part of the party chief? party chief; William N. Plater, chair-

man; R. S. Redmond, chainman; S. plies other than these existed. UnJ. Lynch, axeman; and Clement Cox, doubtedly the game encountered compassman. It can be surmised supplied the meat needed by men that at least one other person was doing such arduous and dangerous in the party, a packer or packerwork. It would be interesting to bring cook. From the time the party left to light, if such exist, any personal the gold camps in the vicinity of notes or diaries of Von Schmidt or Big Oak Flat until the Mono Lake the other men of the party that traarea was reached no source of supversed the park in 1855.

A NOTE ON THE SQUIRRELS OF YOSEMITE

By Fraser Poole, Field School, 1948 Among the mammals most commonly campers' food supplies. The California observed in Yosemite National ground squirrel is easily distinguished Park are the squirrels. With this in mind the following brief account by his large size and from count of the various species found the latter by the white patches on within the park boundaries may be the back of the head and shoulders of interest to our readers. Excepting and the white flecked fur. the marmots and chipmunks the Most brilliantly colored of the squirrels of Yosemite fall into three ground squirrels, although smaller groups: the ground squirrels 1, the and less frequently seen, is the goldtree squirrels 2 and the flying squirrel-mantled ground squirrels. Half as large as the California ground squirrel. Most ubiquitous of all, and the one squirrel, this species is characterized by squirrel which almost every visitor a yellow or coppery head and neck to the park sees at some time during and by the presence of two light his stay, is the California ground stripes along its sides each bordered squirrel, also known as the Sierra on either side by a dark stripe. Chipmunks squirrel4. Not content with Chipmunks in contrast have four stripes foraging for native foods, which in instead of two and have striped elude various kinds of seeds, fruits, faces. elude various kinds of seeds, fruits, The golden-mantled ground squirrel and roots, it has also learned squirrel is neither so abundant nor so to depend on the many campers widely distributed as the California who frequent the park and loses no ground squirrel, being restricted to time in helping itself to whatever the Canadian and Hudsonian life particles of food may be left unzones. The author recently was guarded. The author once lost an amazed to see a single individual entire loaf of bread, pilfered slice by of this species on the bare granite slice by a California ground squirrel. top of Half Dome. Vegetation in this Elsewhere in the state this rodent area is scarce and we may surmise does no inconsiderable damage to that his food supply was eked out crops, orchards and irrigation canals. by contributions from the lunches of In the park, damage seems to be the many hikers who make the trip to mainly limited to their petty thefts the top. Later in the same day an 4. Citellus beecheyi sierrae in Yosemite. 2. genera Sciurus and Tamiasciurus 5. Citellus lateralis chrysodeirus 3. genus Glaucomys 6. "Chipmunks of the Yosemite Region" by Brittan in Yosemite Nature Notes, Vol. XVII, No. 7, July, 1948.

other individual was seen running rapidly up the steep granite face of Half Dome near the cable line. The golden-mantled ground squirrel is common at Glacier Point where numerous individuals may be seen consorting with the chipmunks. Less distinctive in coloration but equally as interesting is the Belding ground squirrel, which is resident chiefly in the grassy valleys of the higher mountains as in the Tuolumne Meadows area. Here it may be seen foraging in the meadow or, when disturbed, running toward the mouth of its burrow where it stands erect with front paws pressed against its sides. It is this attitude which has earned it the common name of picket pin. Yosemite has two species of tree squirrels. Most commonly seen is the Western gray squirrel. This species is strictly arboreal and frequents areas where the California black oak9 and the canyon live oak 10 furnish both shelter and food. Although common on the floor of the Valley it is larger than any other squirrel in the park and even the casual observer will note the absence of white flecks in the fur and the lack of white shoulder patches which characterize the California ground squirrel.

7. Citellus beldingi 8. Sciurus g. griseus 9. Quercus kelloggii 10. Quercus chrysolepis 11. Sierra Nevada Chickaree, Tamiasciurus douglassii albolimbatus, is the Yosemite form. The other tree squirrel is the Douglas squirrel or chickaree which is resident in the coniferous forests of the park in the Canadian and Hudsonian zones where it ranges up to timberline. Even more truly tree dwelling than its larger relatives, the Douglas squirrel is recognized by its small size, the distinct white eye ring and its grizzled fur and white underparts. The principal food of this species consists of seeds of the various conifers. Those of the white fir 12, the sugar13 and jeffrey pines 14 and the giant sequoias 15 are especially relished. Up and about by daylight this squirrel works rapidly cutting off the cones in the very tops of these trees. After several cones have been felled the squirrel comes to the ground to survey his work. If hungry he may haul a cone to some protected spot and proceed to tear off the scales in order that he may get at the seeds. If already filled, or if he has harvested more than will fill his im12. Abies concolor 13. Pinus lambertiana 14. Pinus jeffreyi 15. Sequoia gigantea

mediate needs, he proceeds to cache zones of the park, it is recognized the rest in some secluded spot in the by its soft gray fur which is much area. lighter on the underside. Between the Last in the list of the Yosemite front and back legs on either side squirrels is the gracefully beautiful extends a fur covered membrane Sierra Nevada flying squirrel 16 which gives it the ability to glide Though seen much less frequently long distances through the air. It than any of the other species becannot, of course, actually fly but cause of its small size and nocturnal gliding from a high perch to a lower habits, it is not uncommon. Resident one it covers much greater distances in the Transition and Canadian than it could jump.

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO

(No. 3) By Carl P. Russell, Park Superintendent On an April day in 1924 a message came to Superintendent W. B. Lewis announcing that the American Association of Museums had obtained $50,000 with which to build a museum in Yosemite Valley. The significance of this news had hardly dawned upon those who were closest to the dreamed-of project when further word was received that the gift would be $75,500, to be used for construction, equipment, and maintenance over a three-year period.

In a day when park museums warranted nothing in the way of regular government appropriations other than the salaries of a park naturalist and a few ranger-naturalists, this private donation seemed generous, indeed. It came as a result of Ansel Hall's campaign of 1921-1922 to enlist interest in the educational opportunities in Yosemite National Park. A key to the story is to be found in Francis Farquhar's article, "First Ascent of the Middle Palisade," Sierra Club Bulletin, Vol. XI, No. 3 (1922), p. 269. Mr. Farquhar

16. Glaucomys sabrinus lascivus Yosemite Museum

says nothing about park museum aspirations in his interesting account of the pioneer climb, in the company of Ansel Hall, but he tells of how he and Hall after making the ascent on August 26, 1921, dropped down to the lakes at the head of Palisade Creek. There they encountered a party of mountaineers headed by Mr. Chauncey J. Hamlin who was investigating the unfinished parts of the John Muir Trail.

In camp here Mr. Hall took opportunity to expound upon the importance of helping Americans to understand and appreciate their national parks. He also told of his plans for a park museum in the popular Yosemite Valley. His words fell upon discerning ears; Mr. Hamlin was a museum man.

In 1922 the Yosemite Museum Association was organized. This was the forerunner of the present Yosemite Natural History Association. As a first step toward something concrete, Mr. Hall enlisted the help of Herbert Maier, at present Associate Regional Director, National Park Service, Region Four, in the preparation of preliminary plans and a perspective drawing, in color, of the proposed Yosemite Museum. Thereupon a drive was made for funds. Mrs. Lora J. Knight of Santa Barbara made the first substantial donation, a gift of $5,000, so giving impetus to the building fund program. The Yosemite National Park Co. gave $1,794.50 to the Association and other lesser contributions were obtained until some $9,000 was in the stewardship of the Yosemite Museum Association.

Mr. Hamlin in the meantime had not forgotten his campfire visit with a Yosemite ranger under the Middle Palisade. As President of the American Association of Museums he approached Dr. Beardsley Ruml, President of the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial, with a plea for support to be given to the National Park Service museum program. Perhaps because some California people had evidenced their interest by contributing to the Yosemite Museum Association, the Yosemite Museum project was designated by Dr. Ruml and his board as the place of beginning. The favorable action of the board resulted in the gift referred to in the opening paragraph of this article—a gift which launched the Service-wide program which today embraces more than one hundred park museums.

It is interesting to record Mr. Hall's personal statement regarding some of the history sketched above. In a letter of March 3, 1949, he writes:

"From the time of my meeting with Hamlin party on Palisade Creek I corresponded very frequently with the Hamlins. We had a grand plan to spend some six months together in Europe on the waterways of France, Belgium, Holland, and Germany. Mr. Hamlin purchased canoes and other equipment but the plan had to be abandoned because his affairs would not permit him to be away for so long a period. Mr. and Mrs. Hamlin did, however, make a hurried trip through Europe by automobile in the winter of 1922. They left their car in storage in England where it was available to their son, Chan Hamlin, and me when we started our European tour in the autumn of 1923. You will recall that Mr. Hamlin very generously arranged for me to officially represent the American Association of Museums at the time that I spent approximately a year studying museums, outdoor educational subjects, etc., in Europe, North Africa, and a portion of the Near East.

"At the time of my departure from

Yosemite in August, 1923, I took the preliminary plans and colored sketches for the proposed Yosemite Museum with me. I had already written to Mr. Hamlin frequently about the development of the interpretive facilities in Yosemite but I had not told him about building plans until my arrival in Buffalo. When he did see them he immediately expressed keen interest. He was at that time President of the recently revived American Association of Museums. The outcome of this meeting was the adoption of the Yosemite Museum building project as the first substantial 'cause' to be sponsored and given moral support by the Association of Museums. I was, of course, delighted to leave the preliminary plans and Herb Maier's perspective sketch, in color, with Mr. Hamlin. While we were on the high seas returning to this country in the autumn of 1924, I received a wireless from Mr. Hamlin bearing the good news that the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial had appropriated the remainder of funds needed to complete the Yosemite Museum Building. The story of how Mr. Hamlin successfully presented the project to the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial for support is already familiar to you."

In a future article a brief account of the development of the Yosemite Museum program will be given.

THE SNOW PLANT*

By Dr. Willis Linn Jepson Of all rarities in the park no other of coralline roots which gather up plant excites so much interest, perits food materials. One, two, three, hops, as the snow plant. It is a very or four stems rise from this root mass, Mephistopheles amongst plants, and or sometimes a cluster of a dozen. I its dazzling red color has exercised have even found as many as sixteen strange and almost weird fascination. tion upon the popular mind. The The snow plant has nothing to do whole plant — flowers, bracts and with the snow any more than many stems alike—is of a bloody red hue. other Sierra plants which come up It springs up from the leafy mould after the snow or snow banks have of the forest floor and (as the police disappeared. Probably the snow judge would say) is without obvious plant has never been seen rising from the means of support, since it has no winter snow. After the stems start chlorophyll, no green leaves, to up through the layer of pine needles manufacture its own food as other or forest mould and after the stem plants must do. is once above the ground a light While called a parasite it is not snowfall may come and the bloodsuch and does not draw its sus red stems may thus appear to have risen through this virgin snowfall tenance from the living tissues of In this way, most likely, the name another plant. It is a saprophyte— snow plant originated. A near relathat is, it lives on dead decaying tive is the pine drops, a red-brown vegetable matter. Its stems rise from plant with a slender stem 1 to 2 feet an underground, very much inhigh which is common beneath the valved, interlaced and compact mass yellow pines. *Editor's Note: Written by the famous botanist, now deceased. This article was posted in Yosemite Valley May 9, 1920.

Digitized by Yosemite Online Library Dan Anderson