October 1940

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOL. XIX

October, 1940 No. 10 Yosemite Museum and Upper Yosemite Fall.

THE PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE NATURALIST DEPARTMENT AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION

Published Monthly

VOL. XIX OCTOBER, 1940 NO. 10 "GOOD-BYE TO PARK NATURALIST HARWELL"

By Assistant Park Naturalist M. E. Beatty Charles Albert Harwell, who has In 1926, Mr. Harwell attended the served as park naturalist at Yosemite School of Field Natural ite National Park for the past eleven History. This was the second year years, has resigned to accept ap- of this school. In 1927, he was ap-pointment as California 's represen- pointed to serve as ranger natural-tative of the National Association of ist in Yosemite. He was the first Audubon Societies. His new duties graduate of the Field School to re-include the organization of new ceive appointment in the Service. Audubon Societies in cities and He served again in 1928, and in 1929 towns in the state where none now was invited to assume the responsi-exist, coordinating the work of ex- bilities of park naturalist at Yosemisting Audubon units in the state, ite. promoting the organization of Junior During the eleven years he has Audubon Clubs in California; lectur- served in this position, Mr. Harwell ing and radio programs; and fur- has directed the museum and naturfurthering the conservation and protec- alist program of this important nation of wild birds and animals in ac- tional park. He has served as Di-cordance with policies of the Na- rector of the Yosemite School of Field tional Association of Audubon So- Natural History, which, in training cieties. each summer twenty selected col- Mr. Harwell, a native Californian, lege graduates to become the future received his education in the schools naturalists of the National Park Ser- of the state, graduating from the vice, has gained a nationwide recognition. University of California in 1914. After recognition. Mr. Harwell originated a er graduate study, which included Junior Nature School in Yosemite work at Columbia and Stanford, Mr. which has functioned successfully in Harwell was awarded a Master's de- the park for ten summers. Several gree at the University of California. other of the larger national parks He entered the field of education have organized similar schools pat- and served as principal in the Berk- terned on the Yosemite program. eley, California schools until 1929. He has sponsored the development

of several activities in the park which are now considered essential features of our educational program. Noteworthy are auto caravans, campfire programs, the museum wildflower garden and Indian demonstrations. The many changes he has brought about in the exhibit scheme of the museum have produced much favorable comment. Mr. Harwell is well-qualified to undertake this newly created post in California with the National Association of Audubon Societies. He has made a lifetime study of birds, especially bird songs. An early interest in whistling and natural musical ability led to bird imitations and bird song writing. He has been much in demand as a speaker for scientific societies, teacher training groups, clubs, schools and on the radio. He has a pleasing voice and personality which make it possible for him easily to combine scientific information and rare entertainment. Mr. Harwell is a member of a number of scientific organizations including : The Cooper Club, American Wildlife Society, the American Nature Society (vice president), the Audubon Association of the Pacific (past president), California Audubon Society (vice president), and of the Sierra Club. He served as chairman of a state committee for the selection of a state bird for California. During the campaign he appeared on an NBC hookup once each week for two years, popularizing the contest. As a result 165,000 ballots were tallied and the California Valley Quail became the popular choice, later to be proclaimed State bird by the California legislature. Mr. Harwell is well known as a authority on birds and conservation matters from coast to coast because of his outstanding work with the Na tional Park Service and his radio and lecture work. He has spoken before, such organizations as the Museum of Natural History, New York; New York City Kiwanis Club; Academy of Sciences, Chicago; Academy of Sciences, San Francisco; Depart ment of the Interior Series, Washing ton, D. C.; Biological Society, Washington, D. C.; The Audubon Society of Washington, D. C.; Annual meet ing Sigma Psi; Johns Hopkins University; Western Reserve University Group, Cates Mills, Ohio; Los An geles Breakfast Club, Los Angeles, Cooper Ornithological Club, Berke ley and Los Angeles; California Au dubon Society, Los Angeles; Audu bon Association of the Pacific, San Francisco; California Teachers Asso ciation, San Francisco; Golden Gate International Exposition, San Francisco; Sierra Club of California, San

Francisco, and numerous church, school, college, Boy Scout, Service er participating in the annual meeting of the Society from October 11 Club and other organizations. to 15, he expects to return in time Last winter while on leave of ab- to launch the program in California nce from the National Park Ser- on November 1. ice, he accepted an invitation to For the present Mr. Harwell's deliver a series of forty lectures in headquarters will be at his home, New England and Atlantic Coast 2630 Hilgard Avenue, Berkeley, California. Mr. Harwell left Yosemite September 7, and departed at once for New York City to familiarize himself with the policies and work of His co-workers in Yosemite and his host of friends both in and out of the National Park Service wish him every success in his new position. After the national Audubon Society.

SUNNYSIDE BENCH AND FERN LEDGE

By Walter D. Staaf and Hugh J. Hamilton The article, Sunnyside Bench, by selves, are of the garden variety of Ranger-Naturalist Verlin G. Bay- two-weeks-out-of-the-52 climbers. inger (Yos. NATURE NOTES, July, 1940, After following Mr. Baysinger to p. 52-53) has interested us partic- the southern extreme of "the great ularly, for we have visited that and bench fronting the upper fall," we surrounding areas several times head in the general direction of the since 1934. Lost Arrow, ascending enroute a No one who is an ardent disciple long slope of finely decomposed of Yosemite — hence also of John granite, until we reach the sheer Muir — can fail to be intrigued by cliff below Yosemite Point. Here we the Great Naturalist's reference to turn west, following the base of the Fern Ledge on the east side cliff until the ground beneath us sud- (of the Upper Yosemite Fall)... at denly drops to the northern extreme a height of about 400 feet above of Mr. Baysinger's " great bench." the base of the fall." (The Yosemite There ahead of us, apparently with- Century, 1912, p. 28). It was at a in arm 's reach, is the Upper Fall, point on the extension of this ledge only two thirds of its plunge completed. that Muir once found himself directly behind the mass of the Great But not quite all of the ground Fall—and shortly thereafter directly beneath us has dropped away; under it! (The Yosemite, pp. 40-42.) there remains one slab of granite, We wish briefly to describe a pasted to the face of the cliff. Disroute to this ledge which may be tinctly seen from below, this slab apfollowed by those who, like ourpears to have a vertical thickness of

YOSEMITE: NATURE NOTES

(left)

JOHN MUIR

(cover)

SUNNY SIDE BENCH

marked by line of from above roof of Museum at least a hundred feet; its horizontal are in tin cans which we have long, thickness at the top is six or eight from time to time. feet, and the ledge thus formed We would like to add two remarks:. slopes inward. to Mr. Baysinger's informative article. There is only one step which could article. First, one may descend by an be described as "nervetrying"—and indirect route from Sunnyside Bench, we are on Fern Ledge. The ledge at least in times of low water to the gradually drops perhaps 30 feet, very brink of the Lower Fall. Nature loses its inward sloping character, has there provided a guard wall develops humps, and gets wetter, till much like that at the head of Vernal reaching well behind the fall, it Fall, though higher. would appeal to no one less intrepid Second, the seeming immunity than Muir. Small pools of water, de of the Valley to rattlesnakes is not posited by mist and by the fall in shared by Sunnyside Bench. We its lateral variations, are easily ac- have killed three rattlers in and near cessible. this area, and have heard numerous At least seven persons, including invisible warnings in dry years. ourselves, visited Fern Ledge be- In conclusion, we advise that there tween 1934 and 1939; their names are now no ferns on Fern Ledge.

PEREGOY MEADOWS

By Ranger-Naturalist Enid Michael At the edge of Peregoy Meadows vanguard of ancient Lodgepole Pines cast a dignified shade. Here Blooms today (June 5, 1940) Lithophragma glabra var bulbifera, a Mountain Woodland Star. A scarf of these delicate plants fringe the shadow of one of the ancient pines. The plants are about six inches high and the fringed white flower reminds one of a tiny pin-wheel. The leaves, too, are rounded, lacy leaves, a few of which are scattered up the reddish stems whilst more cluster at the base. This is a rare plant in the Yosemite District and seldom met with elsewhere. The whole ground, hereabout, is lacy with the green, rounded fringed leaves of Larkspur Patens (Delphinium decorum var. patens), and scattered among them the grass-like leaves of Golden Stars (Brodiaea ixioides). Gathered near the base of the pine are the budded stems of Fritillaria atropurpurea. This, too, is a plant seldom found in our district. Yellow violets appear, here and there, in bright bouquets. Out in the open, away from the shade, Hesperocheron pumilus has commenced to bloom. And further down the meadow slope toward the stream, are beds of low yellow buttercups (Ranunculus alismaefolius var. alismellus) interspersed with clumps of blue violets. Shooting Stars are scattered over the moist open slopes. Many of these are the fragrant variety (odoratus), of the species Dodecatheon Jeffreyi. The sink of the meadow, north of the highway, is bedded with the close set plants of Upside-down Clo-

ver (Trifolium bolanderi). One of the charms of this rare, beautiful low growing clover, is the strong violetlike fragrance. I sit on a boulder in the fringe of pines and every breath is sweet with the mingled perfume of clover and shooting stars. The songs of birds come from the branches overhead. There is the rich warble of Cassin Purple Finch, Ruby-crowned Kinglet's lilting song and mingled voices of Warbling Vireo, Junco, Chipping Sparrow, Olive-sided Flycatcher. Then comes the pure melody of Hermit Thrush. The flowers of today are only the first of the rich procession of bloom that through the spring and summer will grace these fair meadows. As I sit musing here I think of other days when early collectors, such as Bolander and Brandegee, gathered here. These meadows were made available in the old days by a road house called Mountain View House and operated by Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Peregoy. This road house was situated on the old horse trail from Clark's to Yosemite, and visitors frequently spent the night on their way to or from the Valley. The sweet fragrance of this meadow must have come like the breath of heaven itself to the tired travelers and what a rest to weary, dust filled eyes the vistas of fresh wild flowers.

VIEW OF MT. LYELL FROM THE NEW TIOGA ROAD

By Ranger-Naturalist C Sharsmith The new Tioga Road from Tuol umne Meadows to Tioga Pass is in general at a slightly higher level than is the old road. It is usually believed that a view of Mt. Lyell from the new road is no longer pos sible. This impression is affirmed if one travels too rapidly upward and fails to know precisely where to look. Mt. Lyell is, however, visible along a few hundred foot section of the new road just exactly one mile above the new government contact station at the main entrance to the Tuolumne Campground. By watching carefully one 's speedometer and stopping at one mile going east, the upper part of the mountain is visible in a notch in the skyline toward the southeast. By climbing up on the roadbank at this point, both Mt. Lyell and Mt. Maclure stand framed in this notch as twin mountains of apparently equal height, Mt. Lyell being the mountain on the left. For a view of its glacier, however, it is necessary to climb the hillslope considerably higher above this point.

NOTES FROM THE HETCH HETCHY REGION

By Ranger-Naturalist Vincent Mowbray The road between the Mather Ranger Station and Hetch Hetchy Reservoir varies in elevation from 4,000 feet to 5,000 feet which should, normally, be in the Transition Life Zone; however, in this particular section, Upper Sonoran types are found to predominate. The Digger Pine (Pinus sabiniana) is the most noticeable of the Upper Sonoran plants found here, and in several sections it is found intermingled with the Jeffrey Pine (Pinus jeffreyi) which is to be expected at elevations above 6000 feet. On the particular ridge where these two species are found mixed together the elevation ranges from 5000 to 5200 feet. The crest of the ridge has a fairly good stand of Western Yellow Pine (Pinus ponderosa) above the Jeffrey Pine-Digger type. The undergrowth consists almost entirely of Manzanita. In this section there are also a number of Upper Sonoran species of birds which I believe nest here and, if they do, constitute new nesting records for Yosemite National Park. I have visited this section twice during the year, first on April 19, 1940, and then again on June 24, 1940. On my first trip I was surprised to find three Ash-throated Flycatchers (Myiarchus c. cinerascens), one Long-tailed Jay (Aphelocoma californica) and one Wren-Tit (Chamaea fasciata). Although the area offered suitable habitats for these species I had not expected to see any of them at such a high elevation. When I returned to this area on June 24, the first thing that I heard as I stopped the car was the song of a Wren-Tit some distance above the road. Further investigation showed that there were four of these birds in one Manzanita bush and this leads me to believe that it was a family, or part of a family, which had nested in the area. I was unable to positively identify any of these birds as young of the year, but the fact that there were four of them together seems to be sufficient evidence that it was a family group. While watching this group I heard another Wren-Tit singing down below the road, indicating at least one other singing male was present in this section. The next bird that I saw was a lone Ash-throated Flycatcher, which was perched in a nearby Digger Pine, and shortly afterward a Long-tailed Jay flew overhead and perched in the top of a Jeffrey Pine. In this same section I also saw such Transition and Canadian life zone species as Mountain Quail, White-headed Woodpecker, Short-tailed Chickadee, Cassin Solitary Vireo, Calaveras Warbler, Audubon Warbler,

and Western Tanager. The other would seem to indicate that they two observations which I have been are nesting species in Yosemite able to find for this region are of National Park and, in the case of the a Long-tailed Jay observed by me Wren-Tit, there is at least some evi- on July 14, 1939, at an elevation of dence to substantiate that conclu- 4900 feet on the north side of the sion. Tuolumne Canyon near the head of This article is based on only a Poopenaut Valley and two Ash- few observations but it gives some throated Flycatchers observed on indications of the mix up which is the same date in Poopenaut Val- to be found in the life zones of the ley (elevation 3500 feet) by George Hetch Hetchy region. In order to get Petrides. The probable presence of a better understanding of the flora these three Upper Sonoran species and fauna of this section a complete of birds in the region near Hetch study would have to be made over Hetchy from April 19 to June 24 a period of time.

ARCTIC THREE-TOED WOODPECKER

By Ranger-Naturalist Enid Michael The nest-hole of an Arctic Three- the young were never silent; a con-toed Woodpecker was four feet stant clatter of metallic notes came above the ground in the dead wood from the nest-hole. The notes were of a living Lodgepole Pine at 7000 very much like the clicking of a tel-feet altitude on the Big Oak Flat egraph instrument. The mother Road. The tree stood twenty feet bird 's call-note was a single "click, " back from the shore of a small lake which she uttered as she approach-and about half this distance away ed the nest. This note was uttered from the paved highway. There several times as she hitched down were many dead and dying Lodge- the tree trunk to the nest-hole. And pole Pines in the near neighborhood incidentally the first "click" as the fe-of the nest-tree, and it was on these male came in from the forage field trees that the female woodpecker caused the youngsters in the nest to did her foraging. Because of the become wildly excited; the volume fact that there was no male bird at- of voice increased and also the tem-tached to this nest during the time po. And it was noted that the young of our observation, the female had could keep up squalling even when to do all the foraging, and she was being stuffed with grubs. The Par-a very busy bird. On the morning ent bird did most of her foraging of June 17, between 9 :22 and 12 :21 on the trunks of the dead Lodgepole she brought food to the nest four- Pines, and the food she brought in teen times. In all these three hours appeared to be termites.

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