April 1928

DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR HUBERT WORK, SECRETARY NATIONAL PARK SERVICE YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES VOL. VII APRIL, 1928 NO. 4 "LEARN TO READ THE TRAILSIDE" YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIF. 1928

This is the official publication of the Educational Department of Yosemite National Park. It is published each month by the National Park Service with the cooperation of the Yosemite Natural History Association, and its purpose is to supply dependable information on the natural history and scientific features of Yosemite National Park. The articles published herein are not copyrighted as it is intended that they shall be freely used by the press. Communications should be addressed to C. P. Russell, Park Naturalist, Yosemite National Park, California.

E. P. LEAVITT

Acting Superintendent

YOSEMITE NATURE NOTES THE PUBLICATION OF THE YOSEMITE EDUCATIONAL DEPARTMENT AND THE YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION

Published monthly Volume VII April, 1928 Number 4

THE STORY OF TRAIL BUILDING IN YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

By Gabriel Sovulewski Of the 600 miles of trails that keep them so. After these many exist within Yosemite boundaries, years of trail building, his enthusiby far the greater part have been asm for such construction wanes built within the past thirty years. not at all. Just now a trails cornIn searching the old park records mittee appointed by Director made by the state park guardians, Mather is expressing its beliefs reand the army superintendents of garding interesting foot trails along,the national park, it became apparYosemite walls, and Mr. Sovulewsk; ent that dependable trail history grins like a boy as he makes his exwas exceedingly difficult to obtain. plorations in anticipation of put In order to supply that increasing ting nis construction gang to work number of Yosemite back-country —C. P. R. enthusiasts with data on their favorite trails, I have asked our park supervisor, Gabriel Sovulewski, to provide the following notes. With this information as a starter, detailed history can be prepared. Mr. Sovulewski first came to Yosemite in 1895 as quartermaster sergeant with the United States army. In 1906 he came to the Park as a civilian employe of the United States army, and since that time has held the position of park supervisor. It has been his responsibility to make all parts of Yosemite's 1125 square miles accessible, and to Yosemite, Calif., Oct. 18, 1927. C. P. Russell, Yosemite National Park, Calif. Dear Mr. Russell: This is written in compliance with your request for an outline of the history of trails constructioff in Yosemite National Park. Most of the trails in the park were blazed and constructed under army administration under contract by different parties, from time to time, as allowance of appropriation was made for that purpose by the Interior Department.

The real pioneer of trails location Seary Pass trail. and construction was Col. H. C Matterhorn and Benson Pass Benson. However, other army ofii trail. cers were always favorable to trail Burro Pass and Matterhorn trail developments, and among these was McGee Lake trail. Col. W. Forsythe, who practically Glen Aulin to Matterhorn trail followed Colonel Benson's footsteps Cathedral Pass and Sunrise Mountain. ru that respect. About four miles of Clouds Rest There were few trails that should trail. be called trails before Yosemite beConness Mountain and Mono Pass came a national park, with the extrail. ception of rout s between Wawona, Parker Pass trail (in part). Glacier Point and Yosemite valley McClure Fork, Vogelsang Pass, Those trails were the oldest and Evelyn Lake and Ireland. best laid out trails in existence Creek trail (which is partly abandoned). when the army took charge of YoMono Meadow and old Buck semite park in 1891. All other trails Camp trail via Crescent and John beyond the rim of Yosemite valley son Lake, also branch to Ostrander were nothing more than cattle and lake. sheep trails and burro passes. Isber•g pass and Fernandez pass The record of trails that were trails were partially thrown outconstructed under different conside of the park when park bountracts could be found in the files daries were changed. The same kept by the various army superinwas true of those trails leading to tendents by whom they were built Devil's Post Pile, Agnew Meadows and Parker pass. The remaining In some cases the first trails have portions of Fernandez and Csberg been entirely abandoned and rePass trails were either abandoned built, and in almost all cases they or rebuilt entirely. have been improved, not as much as ought to be done, but, as far as All the above mentioned contract maintenance funds permitted. The trails have been relocated, rebuilt contract constructed trails that are or partially improved. in existence unchanged or partly reThe trails which were located and built, are as follows : built by me under different adminLake Eleanor and Beehive trail. istrations, army and civilian, be Jack Main Canyon trail, tween August 12, 19116, and October Lake Vernon and Tilltill Valley 1, 1927, are as follows: trail. Tenaya Canyon from Mirror Lake Tiltill Mountain to Paradise Valto Tenaya Lake, approximately ley trail. twelve and one-half miles Tilden Lake trail. North Dome trail from Yosemite Stubble Field and Kerrick CanPoint to junction of Tenaya Lake yon trail, trail at Snow Creek, about nine Bear Valley trail. miles. Rancheria Mountain to Pleasant Valley trail. Hetchy trail from junction. Pleasant Valley to Rodgers Canof Eagle Peak trail to Hetch yon trail. Hetchy via Harden Lake and Rodgers Canyon to Benson Lake Smith's Meadows to Hetch Hetchy trail. —about twenty miles.

Merced Lake trail from junction of Cloud's Rest trail to Merced Lake—seven and one-half miles. Washburn Lake trail, from Merced Lake to Washburn Lake and Lyell Fork of Merced river above Washburn Lake—five miles. Babcock and Emerick Lakes trail from junction of McClure's Fork trail to the head of Rafferty Creek Pass and to Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne river--twelve miles. Donohue Pass trail from the junction of Ireland Creek at Lyell Fork to Donohue Pass—six miles. Ireland Creek trail, along Ireland Creek to Ireland Lake—three miles Buena Vista trail, from junction of Glacier Point trail via Buena Vista Creek, Buena Vista Lake. Royal Arch Lake, to Buck Camp— fourteen and one-half miles. Merced Pass trail from junction of Mono Meadows trail to Merced Pass and Moraine Meadows trail junction—twelve miles. Short cut from Mono Meadows Ford over Illilcuette Creek to junction of Merced Pass trail—two miles. Fernandez Pass trail, from Fernandez Pass via Moraine Meadows to Buck Campten miles. Ten Lakes trail from junction of Vetch Hetchy trail via Yosemite Creek to Ten Lakes—nine and onehalf miles. Tuolumne Canyon trail from the junction of Hetch Hetchy trail at l.>ark Hole via Lukens Lake, Pate Valley, Glen Aulin to Soda Springs and Tuolumne Meadows — thirty miles. Pate Valley via Piute Creek to junction of Pleasant Valley and Rodgers Canyon trail—five miles. Forsythe Pass trail from junction

GABRIEL SOVULEWSKI

Dean of the Yosemite National Park Staff of Sunrise mountain trail to Lake Tenaya and branch to Cloud's Rest —eight miles. Ledge Trail to Glacier Point. Relocated and rebuilt about three miles of Cloud's Rest trail, also relocated and rebuilt about two miles of Half Dome trail, and about three or four miles through Little Yosemite to Lost Valley. Rebuilt Vernal and Nevada Falls from Silver Apron Bridge to the top of Nevada Falls. Rebuilt, improved and relocated entirely 3000 feet of Yosemite Falls trail.

Relocated and rebuilt portions of Relocated and rebuilt Mather Statrail between Nevada Falls and tion road from junction of Taiga Glacier Point. road to Mather Station -approxiIn 1911 four miles of trail from mately six miles. the North Dome trail near Indian Improv, d, relocated in places, and -Creek to the Tioga road at Porcu reduced grades on all mountain pine Flat was constructed. roads within park limits. Also The old 1855 trail from Yosemite worked on eight miles of road outValley to Old Inspiration Point was side of park limits between Warelocated and rebuilt. This new wona and Mariposa Grove. trail is about four miles in length It is quite impossible to give an and starts at the Pohono Bridge account of all work done during the Rebuilt and replaced all bridges twenty-five years or more in naon trails around the rim of the valtional parks, in the army and in ley and on the floor of the valley, civil life It is necessary to bear with the exception of Pohono, El in mind that the credit is not all Capitan and Clark's Bridge. due to me, even though 1 did work hard. Most of these improvements Widened, improved, graded, graywere made on my suggestion, and eled and rebuilt all roads on the sometimes at my insistence I share floor of the valley with the excepthe credit with all superintendents tion of four or five miles between under whom I have served. They Pohono Bridge and Old Village, gave me freedom to do the work which was rebuilt under contract which I have enjoyed immensely with our engineer in charge. Personally, I consider it the Located and built Mirror Lake greatest consolation and happiness road from junction above Tenaya in life to love one's work. On that Creek Bridge along Tenaya Creek account I can claim no unusual to Mirror Lake. credit to myself, for I have found a Located and built about fourteen pleasure in doing these things. miles of foot and bridle paths on Sincerely yours, the floor of the valley.

GABRIEL SOVULEWSKI. WESTERN RED BUD

Just now Yosemite-bound toura relationship to acacia. The leaves ists are much impressed by the will not appear until later and even glory of the multi-colored lower then the shrub will be very attracMerced canyon. Every plant of the tive for the blossoms will be reregion has responded to the rising placed by clusters of long purple temperature and spring rains. Rich pods, which will droop gracefully grasses carpet the slopes and imamong the leaves. mense beds of gold, blue, red and A related species of this genus, white flowers mottle the canyon cercis, grows in Palestine. Accordwalls. The Red-Bud that present ing to tradition it produced white leafless, shrubby growth is at the flowers originally, but the traitor. height of its glory and many ques Judas, hanged himself from its tions regarding it are asked. limbs, and the tree blushed pink Its flowers are red-purple and with shame. enfold the branches in a perfect blaze of beauty. Close examination Local Indians use the slender of the blossoms reveals their aimtwigs of the Sierra species in hasilarity to sweet pease and hints Fit ket making.

FARE OF THE GOLDEN EAGLE

By George M. Wright What of the lordly eagle! His eye Far from chafing in bondage with is piercing bright, superb his grace wild spirit ever yearning to be free, in flight; and majesty is in his' this bird recently refused proffered bearing when he deigns to stand liberty in favor of the sheltered on earth. His nest is up among life and a certain dinner bell. the castle crags, his domain the Though the apparent predilection sky. No other flying creature for carrion may only be a result of dares to challenge his kingdom of the exigencies of winter, Mr. and ether. Mrs. Charles Michael report that But what of the royal appetite? in seven years of close observation Fact and fancy interwoven through of eagles in Yosemite they have many a legend recount the fearless never seen one attack any living marauder's fancies for such sizable thing. prey as lambs, fawns, calves and This seems to be the general exeven some weakened adult indiperience even in other localities. viduals of these same animals. During a recent field expedition No eagle ever took wing over among the mountains of the Alasscenes of more impressive grandkan Range, where golden eagles eur than do those which soar about abound, they were seen almast the domes of Yosemite. Here, if every day and all day long for any place, they should be epicures. three months. Through all that But alas! By actual observation, time, though marmots screamed carrion carcasses of deer seem to and lambs of the mountain sheep be the leading article of diet, on scrambled to cover whenever the a very plebeian menu. The birds eagles planed into sight around ' he keep one eye on the old garbage shoulder of a mountain, not even dump even though their spirit bids one attempt to make a catch was them soar to heaven, and they soon noted. make light work of any bodies Not to rob Yosemite's eagles of brought there for disposal. one bit of romantic glory (after all Last winter three golden eagles nobody could shake this king of wci e discovered at the lower end birds from the throne so pre-emum of the valley feeding on a young ently his), but to ascertain the scibuck which had evidently been entific facts concerning tneir food killed by a passing motorist. So habits, it is to he hoped that mare great was their consternation at definite information will come to thus being surprised in their goerlight in the future. The golden mandry that one of them flew right eagle is fast vanishing. His status into the oncoming car confusedly would profit if it could be shown hut determinedly enough to susthat stockmen and hunters have (n+ i a hi•nk^"iwi ng The eagle in blackened his character n^ltustly or the zoo relishes his prepared diet. to unreasonable extent in the past

NARKING HISTORIC SPOTS

By C P. Russell The Native Sons organization of camps, and through business conCaiiforilia has for some years past nections; and also from comrades engaged in the laudable enterprise in the Indian war of 1850-51. Among of placing markers on the sites of these settlers was one James 1.) historic happenings, settlements Savage, a trader, who in 1849-50 was and buildings within the state. Relocated in the mountains near the cently a committee has investigated mouth of the South Fork of the the desirability of marking such Merced river, some fifteen miles spots that exist in the vicinity of below the Yosemite valley. Merced, Mariposa and the "South- "At this point, engaged in gold ern Mines." mining, he had employed a party of One spot in the Yosemite region native Indians. Early in the sea that should by all means be given son of 1850 his trading post and band ingofcaYmp osew mier tee attack ns Indiaed by a. This the site occupied by the first tradtribe, or band, claimed the territory ing station maintained by James D. in that vicinity, and attempted to Savage of Yosemite discovery fame. drive Savage off. Their real object. This station was established on the however,

redwas treach plunrous eder. a nd They wnge er re da c onside South Fork of the Merced river in ous, and were very troublesome to 1849. It was there that the first the miners generally. Indian troubles originated, which in "Savage and his Indian miners re1851 brought about the discovery of pulsed araud m the attack and drove off the ers, but from this occur'Yosemite valley. Today the place rence he no longer deemed the locaand events are unheard of, yet both tion desirable. Being fully aware

are of utmost significance in the of the murderous propensities of story of human happenings in the his assailants, he removed to Mariposa creek, not far from the juneYosemite country—a story in which tion of the Aqua Fria, and near increasing thousands are manifestthe site of the Old Stone Fort." ing an interest. The Mariposa creek station and Reference to the activities of J. one on the Fresno were later atD. Savage, most prominent of Maritacked and several attendants killed. These depredations were posa pioneers, is fragmentary inthe culminating events which predeed. However, that invaluable accipitated the Indian war aid count of very early human affairs brought ab ll va out e the But discove ea the ry rli of r e Yoy. afin the Mariposa country, "Discovery fair on the South Fork of the Merof the Yosemite," by L. H. Bunnell, ced was, quite evidently, the begingives information on the man that Wing of hostilities so far as Savage is seized upon by present-day was concerned. Today a half mil lion people annually hurry by the searchers. mouth of the South Fork of the Bunnell has this to say of that Merced, in their Yosemite-bound first near-Yosemite settlement : motor cars. An appropriate marker placed on the All-Yeas Yosemite "My recollections of those early highway at or near the bridge over days are from personal observathe South Fork would serve to retions and information derived from mind us of those picturesque pion the earlier settlers of the San Joaneem a r days and would perpetuate tulle e of James D Savage. who quin valley, with whom I was percommanded the mariposa E3attalion sonally acquainted in the mining in its discovery of Yosemite valley

CALIFORNIA'S STATE BIRD

By C. P. Russell The California poppy is our State flower, the Sequoia gigantea is sponsored by the American Green Cross for our State tree, our State flag carries a figure of the extinct California grizzly bear, and now a state-wide campaign is announced for the election of an official State bird. Organization and individual votes are to be recognized by the State bird committee of the California Audubon Society. California members of the Yosemite Natural History Association are urged to make their favorite birds known to Mrs. F. T. Bicknell, California Audubon Society, 319 South Normandie Avenue, Los Angeles, Calif. In making a choice of a bird habits and manner are above retypical of the Golden State we preach which guarantee safety should avoid the possibility of some from lax lawmakers and gunners. time finding that bird threatened It is truly as characteristic as some with extermination. Californians of the candidates that now head long ago destroyed the last of the the list, and to my notion much magnificent grizzly bears which more pleasing. were once sufficiently typical of our mountains and plains to be chosen as the emblem for our State flag. Now, the last representative of the bear family, the black bear, is legally slaughtered in unlimited numbers, and at all seasons. California gives no protection whatever to the bear, one of her most interesting mammals. The official bird should be one that is at all times protected by State laws; one that breeds in California, and is known for its plumage, song, friendly nature, or valuable habits of living; one that is loved throughout the State by the public. Bluebird, Symbol of Happiness This voter has already voiced his pi eference for the Western bluebird. It has long been known as a symbol of happiness and has been elegized in prose and song unti l it Is loved by all. Most certainly California is a State of happiness, and no bird that we might select will convey more significant thought to citizens of other cornnuinwealths At one season or another the hhu'bird lm found on ('nliforniu heights

and In our lowlands. Its pinnslnK Other birds that have been suggested follow: California quail, California woodpecker, Red-shafted flicker, Anna hummingbird, Bullock oriole, Green-backed goldfinch, California brown towhee, California thrasher, Canyon wren, Wren-tit, California condor, Desert sparrow hawk, Road-runner. Western kingbird, California purple finch, Black-headed grosbeak, Western tanager, Audubon warbler, Water ouzel, Russet-backed thrush, Bush-tit. School Teachers May Aid Campaign The campaign will not terminate until the end of 1928. School teachers may do much for ornithology by using this upland milt y to interest thole pnnlls In 1'' ••• r t

ACCESSIONS IN FEBRUARY

By C. P. Russell Mrs. C. W. Hill, daughter of the Photograph of Thomas Lind, Yoartist, Thomas Hill, has presented semite guide, at Stoneman House. booklets, "The Last Spike" and Photograph of Cook's Hotel tong- "Catalog of Paintings by Thomas inally Black's Hotel) of Yosemite. Hill," as well as numerous news Photograph of Nathan Phillips, clippings pertaining to the artist's "Pike," well-known Yosemite guide life and death. of early days. A photograph of Markess Hedges, Photograph of "Pike" and James builder of the Cosmopolitan House Laurence, who killed "Bush-Head in 1870, was donated by H. B. Tom." Hedges. Mr. Hedges also gave a Photograph of Mariposa county photo of George Munroe, noted colofficials, 1887. ored driver of early Yosemite Photograph of Mariposa Hotel stages. and crowd of Mariposans, 1887. W. A. Chalfant gave copies of his Photograph of Galen Clark at historical books, "The Story of Wawona Tree tunnel. Inyo" and "Outposts of CivilizaPhotograph of Washburn brothtion." ers, Galen Clark and others in MariG. E. Reynolds added to our series posa Grove. of splendidly bound "Out-a-Door In addition to these photographs Section" of the Stockton Record by Mr. Schlageter gave a copy of presenting a file of the 1927 numHartwell & Mitchell's "Yosemite bers. It is bound uniformly with Valley," 1893. Two exceedingly the volumes of the four preceding rare and valuable watercolor paintyears possessed by the museum. ings made in Mariposa in 1859 were A photostatic copy of map of lent for our use. One of these is Lake mining district (Mammoth), a large painting of the Maropisa Mono county, California, was preHotel, which was operated by Mr. sented by Francis P. Farquhar. Schlageter's father, Herman SchlaThis rare map is useful in studying geter in 1859. The hotel has been the history of the region east of possessed by the Schlageters

YOSEMITE.

through these years, and is still a The Yosemite Natural History landmark of Mariposa. The second Association presented the following painting is a large general view of historical books : the town of Mariposa as it appeared "The California Magazine," Vol. in 1859. Both of these paintings I, 1880, bound. are said to have been made by A "Deck and Port," by W. Colton, Schwartz. and they are much more 1886. interesting than these few words "California Life Illustrated," by might lead one to believe. William Taylor (about 1880). George E. Lind, county treasurer F. W. Schlageter of Mariposa of Mariposa county, has presented a gave the following valuable photoWatkins portrait of Galen Clark graphs pertaining to the history of and two watercolor paintings the Yosemite region : signed A. Schwartz. Mariposa, 1859. Mariposa Brass Band that accomOne of these is an "Inside view of panied President Grant to Yosemite shaft No. 1 of Ben Mocke and in 1879. Seale's section of the Mariposa vein Stereoscopic view of Mariposa A pocket of $26,000 was struck here Catholic Church and Mariposa on the 14th of July, 1859. at a depth mine. of forty feet, by F Howell and Stereoscopic view by C. Bierstadt, Lind brothers, working said shaft placer mining by Chinamen. on shares." The second colored Stereoscopic view, Rock Cottage drawing is mutilated, but is enin Yosemite. titled "Outside view of shaft of Stereoscopic view, Yosemite Falls. Ben Mocke and Seale's sect i on of Stereoscopic view, cutting section the Mariposa vein. A pocket of of Sequoia In Calaveras Grove, for $26,000 was struck here on the 14th 1876 Centennial, Philadelphia. of July, 1859, at a depth of forty Photograph of Frank Kinney of feet by F. Howell and Lind brnthYosemite 's "Klnneyville :" era, working paid shaft on shares "

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YOSEMITE NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA

Or Friend: Here are three good reasons why you should ►ome a member of the Yosemite Natural History Assopn : 1. It will keep you in touch with Yosemite through "Yosemite Nature Notes". 2. It offers you opportunity to secure NATURE MAGAZINE, AMERICAN FORESTS AND FOREST LIFE, or both, at an unprecedented low price. 3. You materially aid a non-profiting Government educational activity (The Yosemite Museum and its attendant nature guide service) when you remit your membership fee. Please read a sample of "Yosemite Nature P11•", consider our purposes, and don't overlook the ►a4tits of the combination offers with the American M1* 1 Association and the American Forestry Associa1446 Remit by check or money order. Cordially yours, C. P. Russell Park Naturalist FAW-musEum